Full Version: c86 won't recognize full ink cartridge

From: logojohn [#1]
 29 Jul 2006
To: ALL

Anybody want to trade weeks.(Except Harveyonly with the computer crash)
The last two weeks have been enough to get me aggravated.
I wasted more time trying to get things to work than getting work done.

I tried to make a change on a computer with a wireless mouse and keyboard. Now it will connect to either one but not both at the same time with the bluetooth junk which will be a black and blue tooth if it doesn't shape up. The only extra keyboard I had was a sony vaio. They use this stupid system of having to hit a second key everytime you need to use home, page up, end, etc.

I tried to hook up the old HP usb scanner to the computer for the new laser. I installed two versions of corel first as that is necessary for it to be recognized by the scanner. No luck. It installed but there is no link to any coreldraw so you can't scan to a vector outline. From corel it scans but only a raster and no vector. Just scanning text is worthless. you launch with the button or icon and literally 5 minutes later it starts scanning.

I wanted to take the 2nd monitor from the old computer and add it to the new one. I moved the video card and installed. No matter if one or both monitors were connected, it would only display the one connected to the new video card. Must be a conflict as I have seen before with certain brands. Put it back on the old one.

Couldn't use the new laser oem printer for a job that was due since I found out I needed a pad I don't have. Thanks to Mick, help is on the way for next time.

Tried to install photograv to laser the pic. Bad results. Didn't have much time to play with it by now it was due. I went back to the old method with photopaint on the old laser since I new what to do. Just a learning curve to get over I hope.

The people came to install the vent for the new laser in the false ceiling and put a hole in the wall . . . late . . a day after the training was done with a makeshift connection to the other laser vent. Most of the training day was spent trying to get the laser to recognize an ip address so much went uncovered or untested. When the vent was installed, we used a 4 inch pipe. Turns out that is not wide enough to pull the smoke out of a big cabinet even though that is the size coming out of the laser. That will have to be changed now. The fan is the biggest they make.

I am sure I forgot some other problems already.
real question starts here
Then a rush order for 1500 sublimated plates comes through. I trained one of the assemblers to scan in the text and print them out on the c86 printer.

It gets most of them done and I had to put in a new black ink cartridge.
It worked fine the rest of that day. The next day it comes up saying the black ink is empty. Tried reseating it, unpluging, rebooting the computer several times.

I tried an identical printer from the asi dept. and it worked so was able to finish. But trying to find the problem, I switched the cartridges trying to find out what was wrong. The problem cartridge put in the 2nd printer did not work. But the good cartridge put in the first printer didn't work either. Does that mean that both the cartridge and printer connection are bad.

The printers are so cheap that is not a problem. But we have several cartridges and now the only models for sale are c88. Sawgrass shows a different cartridge for it so I assume the cartridge connection or something has changed. That means the c86 sawgrass power driver likely won't work and they don't have one listed for the c88 yet. Then I just spent too much time since you have to on-line register the power driver on every computer you want to network to.

A related question. If the OEM laser transfer gets working, will it replace all sublimation or do you still need it.

The unisub plaques have been popular. Will the OEM laser toner work on those or is there a similar replacement.

Also the sublimated ceramic mugs sell well. Will the OEM stick to ceramic mugs as well as sublimation with a mug press. Do you need a special pad for that to.

Will the OEM work and stick to metal as well as sublimation.

.

EDITED: 30 Jul 2006 by DGL


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2]
 29 Jul 2006
To: logojohn [#1] 31 Jul 2006

John,

If the image for the 1500 piece job was heavily-weighted in black, it's possible that you're out of black ink.

If that's not the case, try taking a pencil eraser to the contacts of the cartridge and/or printer contacts.

If Sawgrass sold bulk ink (they don't) you could use a chip resetter and refill your cartridges. If the ink cartridge is, in fact, full and showing empty, a chip resetter ($20) www.inksupply.com wouldn't be a bad investment.

I helped a local shop get set up with refillable, spongeless cartridges, on an Epson C86. So far, so good. They're using TOG ink.

OEM printing won't replace sublimation entirely. Ceramics require post-baking, in order for the image to be more durable; otherwise the image will scratch off, without much effort.

In answer to your original question, "No, I wouldn't want to trade weeks." >.< 

EDITED: 29 Jul 2006 by DGL


From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#3]
 29 Jul 2006
To: logojohn [#1] 31 Jul 2006

quote:
The fan is the biggest they make.


A couple questions:

What is the CFM rating of the fan?
Is it designed for inline use with a 4" inlet?
How long is the run?
Is the fan at the end of the run or somewhere in the middle?
Is there a baffle or louvers after the fan?
Did you use rigid (smooth wall) or flexible pipe?

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#4]
 29 Jul 2006
To: logojohn [#1] 31 Jul 2006

Welcome to the misery club. It was lonely here but it would have been better if it stayed that way.

David answered about ceramics. Raw metals, read that as chrome and nickel plate tested, do not accept a transfer at all. Engraving brass and aluminum take the transfer well but are not as durable as sublimation. Sublimation coatings do not have any durability with OEM transfer. If you need white, a white sublimation product may be the only answer unless you test a white coated aluminum not made for sublimation.

It is great for acrylic and plaques. Badges and dash plates would worry me a little bit. Acrylic keychains are out, they will be 50% gone in about four months.

EDITED: 29 Jul 2006 by HARVEY-ONLY


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#5]
 29 Jul 2006
To: logojohn [#1] 31 Jul 2006

Oops, forgot about the cartridge chip.

Do a search on the Internet for SSC Service Utility. There is a new version that covers all modern printers also. It is free.

It has chip resetting as an option. Do not use 'reset all counters', it sets the chips on the carts to zero. Gee, how do I know that?


From: Mick [#6]
 30 Jul 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#4] 30 Jul 2006

Harvey
We do name badges on white plastic (1/16") with OEM toners that hold up very well. Also, try Rallye's metals with a post bake, they work very well.
Mick


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#7]
 30 Jul 2006
To: Mick [#6] 30 Jul 2006

Which brand/style of plastic?

From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#8]
 30 Jul 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#7] 2 Aug 2006

If OEM toner works great on clear acrylic, maybe it works great on the typical opaque white acrylic sheets? (just guessing)

Sounds like that would be perfect for name tags.


From: Mick [#9]
 30 Jul 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#7] 2 Aug 2006

Call me Harvey and I will send you a sample of it. I have it in 12' X 18" sheets.

From: Mick [#10]
 30 Jul 2006
To: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#8] 30 Jul 2006

White acrylic does work but the other white plastic I have is much more durable.

From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#11]
 30 Jul 2006
To: Mick [#10] 30 Jul 2006

Interesting. What type of plastic is it?

From: Mick [#12]
 30 Jul 2006
To: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#11] 30 Jul 2006

It is a thermoplastic (vs. thermoset) stryene product. It can readily be sheared on standard small shears and also cut with a laser quite nicely.

From: logojohn [#13]
 31 Jul 2006
To: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#3] 31 Jul 2006

The fan is 2hp, 1250CFM.
Other people are using it with longer runs. but the only difference
is they used a 6" to 8" so we are going to change it which should fix it.

Ours is about 10' to the fan and only about 6' to the outside and the vent flap is opening.

The fan evacuates the cabinet well for about the first 2 inches the scatters but doesn't collect so is slowly being pulled out, just not fast enough. The air assist is not on at the time.

.

From: logojohn [#14]
 31 Jul 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#5] 2 Aug 2006

Well it is working again so that is the main thing.

I tried the SSC Service Utility and it showed the true ink level and another show of the settings that showed it empty.

Tried several of the resets but no luck.
I remeber now that when I put this new cartridge in I was in a hurry.
I was thinking the protection tab was around the place where the ink comes out. Seeing none there I just put the cartridge in. I later realized It was on top and removed it. Some of the other colors you can see a little ink around the c shaped slot. The black appeared solidly filled in.
I tired opening it with an exacto knife and reset again but no luck.

Finally just tried a 2nd new cartridge and it worked. Must be something messed up with the first one that the service utility can't even fix.

.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#15]
 31 Jul 2006
To: logojohn [#14] 31 Jul 2006

John,

Some cartridges come with bad chips.

Sounds like yours may be one. You can buy replacement chips from www.inksupply.com

Better yet, you can call your ink supplier and have them send a new cartridge.

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