Full Version: HP 4550 OEM Transfer Paper
From: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#1]
1 Aug 2006
To: ALL
Well, I just tried my first runs on my HP 4550 with paper from Mick at Catus. As recommended I left the little yellow stickies on the top to help get it through. I also put it through the front feeder and had it come out the back (most direct route). It made it out about 2-3 inches then got wrapped around the fuser...That was on cardstock setting. Then I ran it again all the same but plain paper setting. Had same results. So, unless I'm doing something wrong, the paper from Cactus won't work with the 4550 either. I'm going to give JBL Graphics a call and try to get some samples since others have had some luck the the HG paper.
Mike
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#2]
1 Aug 2006
To: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#1] 1 Aug 2006
I would contact the people at Alpha Supply, http://colourmagic.info/
They're really expert and helpful on technical issues. They can supply you with the right paper as well.
From: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#3]
1 Aug 2006
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#2] 1 Aug 2006
Mike,
I've already gotten an email from them and they don't really have a paper that would work with the 4550 for OEM transfers...they sell the laser sublimation toner...at $1150 for one set...granted they say it comes out to be about .25 per print...but still alot of money to lay down up front for a business just getting started!
Mike
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4]
1 Aug 2006
To: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#1] 1 Aug 2006
I hate to say, that I'm not surprised.
The heat fusers, on the HP printers, get pretty hot.
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#5]
1 Aug 2006
To: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#4] 1 Aug 2006
I use The Magic Touch system and a Panasonic 8415 color laser printer. It has an oil fuser. You might give them a call about compatibility of their papers. I think the last paper I bought was about $0.55 per sheet.
888 349-2378 http://themagictouchusa.com/support.html
From: pitbull107 [#6]
1 Aug 2006
To: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#1] 1 Aug 2006
From: gingem [#7]
2 Aug 2006
To: ALL
Hi Mike
I have been using the 4550 since it has first on the market and I have only used plain paper in it. You can use coated inkjet paper if you are sublimating on white but the 4550 is too hot for most transfer papers. Cost for the cartridges might seem high but you are going to spend it somewhere along the way by the time you get done. I switch my cartridges back and forth between regular and sublimation all the time.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#8]
2 Aug 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4] 2 Aug 2006
I am not sure it is the heat.
The oil fusers use a silicon rubber coated heat roller with oil on it pressed on the face of the paper- the coated side.
The Konica-Minolta, (only one I am familiar with), stretches the BACK of the paper over the fuser roller and heats it through the paper. Nothing touches the face of the paper, therefore no jams from sticking.
From: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#9]
2 Aug 2006
To: ALL
Harvey,
From what I've read the 4550 is a non-oil fuser..so I don't think that's what it is...I also saw where it was wrapped around when I pulled it out. So I think it was starting to stick to the fuser roller (if there is a such thing...I'm new to lasers).
Bill,
Are you saying that I can use coated ink jet paper in my laser and then transfer from that? I was going to try some glossy ink jet paper, but it specifically said "do not use in laser printers or copiers" so I didn't know for sure...
Thanks,
Mike
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#10]
2 Aug 2006
To: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#9] 2 Aug 2006
Even if it does not use oil, a hot roller pressed on the plastic coated side will stick to the roller.
You should see the mess I created in my Konica when I accidentally put the paper in wrong side up. Your picture sort of describes it.
From: pitbull107 [#11]
2 Aug 2006
To: ALL
If you saw my earlier post, I tried the coated papers and they DO STICK to the drum of the 4550 laser.
By the time you waste your time and effort plus a few replacement parts for the laser (trying to out-wit it), you could have been making money selling the dye sub stuff.
Right now I am torn between Alpha and TOG........ any suggestions?
From: logojohn [#12]
3 Aug 2006
To: ALL
the OEM laser transfers in the Konica Minolta 2400w can't.
Will it work on more things or stick better? From the comments I have seen about the laser sublimation, there is more need for clean up the finished product.
.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#13]
3 Aug 2006
To: logojohn [#12] 3 Aug 2006
I don't know if this is a huge benefit, but laser sublimation renders a glossy black imprint, where OEM toner leaves a matte finish.
Laser sublimation uses inexpensive copy paper as transfer paper.
It's possible to print through the plastic masking of brass or aluminum plates, with laser sublimation, without the need for a citrus residue remover, although a crisper, more vibrant image can be had, by imaging directly to the metal, which requires that the toner residue be removed, followed by a stainless steel cleaner, to remove residual citrus cleaner.
I use both laser and ink jet sublimation. I find uses for both, but prefer ink jet, because of the wider variety of substrates I can print, without a need for additional cleaning steps.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#14]
3 Aug 2006
To: pitbull107 [#11] 3 Aug 2006
Alpha Supply and TOG are both suppliers, with a long history of satisfied laser sublimation customers. More recently, both companies have added ink jet sublimation to their line.
I happened to buy my sublimation toner from Alpha Supply, mainly because Jack Franklin has been such a good friend to the forum.
You can't go wrong with either company.
From: Jerre (LAZAFFAIR) [#15]
3 Aug 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#13] 3 Aug 2006
Wow! I must have the most unusual 4550 HP ever made. I have not had a SINGLE jam using JBL Graphics HG paper in my 4550. I use the direct feed single sheet and the heavy paper setting. I do not run it out the back, it comes out the regular paper path. I bought this paper about 18 months ago and it almost gone. Maybe there is a newer version of the paper out. Hope not. Have some more tiles to get out. If I get a chance I'll try to post some of the results.
Jerre
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#16]
3 Aug 2006
To: Jerre (LAZAFFAIR) [#15] 3 Aug 2006
If it works, it works.
I was always amazed by your accounts of running HG paper through a 4550.
Please let us know if your new batch of paper works the same as what you're now using.
From: logojohn [#17]
3 Aug 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#13] 3 Aug 2006
or like the OEM laser transfer than can be used on non-sublimatable surfaces like acrylic, fabrics etc.
.
From: Jerre (LAZAFFAIR) [#18]
3 Aug 2006
To: logojohn [#17] 3 Aug 2006
The laser sublimation process is just like inkjet. It needs some (most) polyester in the fabric and a prepared (coated) surface on hard goods. On some items the coating is different for laser vs inkjet. Some plastics (not all) can take sublimation without a coating. Laser sublimation doesn't do well on fabric compared to inkjet.
Jerre
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#19]
3 Aug 2006
To: logojohn [#17] 3 Aug 2006
John,
As Jerre points out, all dye sublimation substrates must have a receptive coating or polyester content.
The strong points of OEM toner, are in printing non-sublimatable substrates, i.e. wood, acrylic and glass.
EDITED: 3 Aug 2006 by DGL
From: pitbull107 [#20]
3 Aug 2006
To: Jerre (LAZAFFAIR) [#15] 3 Aug 2006
I have a Hp 4550 and would love to use the OEM toners to create some pressed metals or fabrics. Please advise your findings!
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