Full Version: HP 4550 OEM Transfer Paper

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#8]
 2 Aug 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4] 2 Aug 2006

I am not sure it is the heat.

The oil fusers use a silicon rubber coated heat roller with oil on it pressed on the face of the paper- the coated side.

The Konica-Minolta, (only one I am familiar with), stretches the BACK of the paper over the fuser roller and heats it through the paper. Nothing touches the face of the paper, therefore no jams from sticking.

From: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#9]
 2 Aug 2006
To: ALL

Harvey,
From what I've read the 4550 is a non-oil fuser..so I don't think that's what it is...I also saw where it was wrapped around when I pulled it out. So I think it was starting to stick to the fuser roller (if there is a such thing...I'm new to lasers).

Bill,
Are you saying that I can use coated ink jet paper in my laser and then transfer from that? I was going to try some glossy ink jet paper, but it specifically said "do not use in laser printers or copiers" so I didn't know for sure...

Thanks,

Mike

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#10]
 2 Aug 2006
To: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#9] 2 Aug 2006

Even if it does not use oil, a hot roller pressed on the plastic coated side will stick to the roller.

You should see the mess I created in my Konica when I accidentally put the paper in wrong side up. Your picture sort of describes it.

From: pitbull107 [#11]
 2 Aug 2006
To: ALL

I think that the expense of sublimation toners is well worth looking into seriously. I too am in that boat now.

If you saw my earlier post, I tried the coated papers and they DO STICK to the drum of the 4550 laser.

By the time you waste your time and effort plus a few replacement parts for the laser (trying to out-wit it), you could have been making money selling the dye sub stuff.

Right now I am torn between Alpha and TOG........ any suggestions?

From: logojohn [#12]
 3 Aug 2006
To: ALL

Is there something the laser sublimation (HP) can do that
the OEM laser transfers in the Konica Minolta 2400w can't.

Will it work on more things or stick better? From the comments I have seen about the laser sublimation, there is more need for clean up the finished product.

.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#13]
 3 Aug 2006
To: logojohn [#12] 3 Aug 2006

John,

I don't know if this is a huge benefit, but laser sublimation renders a glossy black imprint, where OEM toner leaves a matte finish.

Laser sublimation uses inexpensive copy paper as transfer paper.

It's possible to print through the plastic masking of brass or aluminum plates, with laser sublimation, without the need for a citrus residue remover, although a crisper, more vibrant image can be had, by imaging directly to the metal, which requires that the toner residue be removed, followed by a stainless steel cleaner, to remove residual citrus cleaner.

I use both laser and ink jet sublimation. I find uses for both, but prefer ink jet, because of the wider variety of substrates I can print, without a need for additional cleaning steps.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#14]
 3 Aug 2006
To: pitbull107 [#11] 3 Aug 2006

Pat,

Alpha Supply and TOG are both suppliers, with a long history of satisfied laser sublimation customers. More recently, both companies have added ink jet sublimation to their line.

I happened to buy my sublimation toner from Alpha Supply, mainly because Jack Franklin has been such a good friend to the forum.

You can't go wrong with either company.

From: Jerre (LAZAFFAIR) [#15]
 3 Aug 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#13] 3 Aug 2006

Wow! I must have the most unusual 4550 HP ever made. I have not had a SINGLE jam using JBL Graphics HG paper in my 4550. I use the direct feed single sheet and the heavy paper setting. I do not run it out the back, it comes out the regular paper path. I bought this paper about 18 months ago and it almost gone. Maybe there is a newer version of the paper out. Hope not. Have some more tiles to get out. If I get a chance I'll try to post some of the results.

Jerre

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#16]
 3 Aug 2006
To: Jerre (LAZAFFAIR) [#15] 3 Aug 2006

Jerre,

If it works, it works.

I was always amazed by your accounts of running HG paper through a 4550.

Please let us know if your new batch of paper works the same as what you're now using.

From: logojohn [#17]
 3 Aug 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#13] 3 Aug 2006

Is the laser sublimation like the ink jet sublimation that can only be used on items with a special surface for the most part?

or like the OEM laser transfer than can be used on non-sublimatable surfaces like acrylic, fabrics etc.

.

From: Jerre (LAZAFFAIR) [#18]
 3 Aug 2006
To: logojohn [#17] 3 Aug 2006

The laser sublimation process is just like inkjet. It needs some (most) polyester in the fabric and a prepared (coated) surface on hard goods. On some items the coating is different for laser vs inkjet. Some plastics (not all) can take sublimation without a coating. Laser sublimation doesn't do well on fabric compared to inkjet.

Jerre

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#19]
 3 Aug 2006
To: logojohn [#17] 3 Aug 2006

John,

As Jerre points out, all dye sublimation substrates must have a receptive coating or polyester content.

The strong points of OEM toner, are in printing non-sublimatable substrates, i.e. wood, acrylic and glass.

EDITED: 3 Aug 2006 by DGL

From: pitbull107 [#20]
 3 Aug 2006
To: Jerre (LAZAFFAIR) [#15] 3 Aug 2006

Exactly what are you transfering to? Are you using a heat pad or..........

I have a Hp 4550 and would love to use the OEM toners to create some pressed metals or fabrics. Please advise your findings!

From: Jerre (LAZAFFAIR) [#21]
 3 Aug 2006
To: pitbull107 [#20] 3 Aug 2006

I have not had good success with the 4550 on fabric with either OEM or sublimation toner. I use the OEM for uncoated tiles and mugs. I use the sublimation toner on metals (TOG) for awards and name plates. I have a QMS 6100 which does a good job with sub toner on fabric using a poly transfer sheet (Duracotton). You do have to trim close with duracotton.

From: pitbull107 [#22]
 11 Aug 2006
To: ALL

Well, as a lark, I bought some Spectra HG paper from JBL, as another user posted, and ran it in my HP 4550.

Guess what happened? It wrapped itself around the drum and melted!

So, I think that my only option for this printer is sublimation cartridges and plain paper.

I would LOVE to know how anyone can get this printer to use ANY transfer paper with OEM toner.....

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#23]
 11 Aug 2006
To: pitbull107 [#22] 11 Aug 2006

Pat,

Aren't these failed attempts at running HG paper through your printer ruining your drum?

Or does the paper peel off, when cold, letting you use the printer again?

From: pitbull107 [#24]
 11 Aug 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#23] 11 Aug 2006

Being a technician, as soon as I hear the crinkling of paper, I immediately shut off the printer, disconnect the power cord and remove the drum assembly while still hot.

Then after a few choice words, and a pair of scissors, I remove the paper.

Then, I re-plug the power, restart the printer, then run at least 2 sheets of REGULAR PAPER through the unit. This has safely removed the still "warm" residue left on the drum.

I know, I'm lucky....... 8->

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#25]
 11 Aug 2006
To: pitbull107 [#24] 11 Aug 2006

Pat,

That's a valuable tip, for those of us who are technicians.

I'm still confounded, as to how/why Jerre can run HG paper through his HP 4550.

From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#26]
 11 Aug 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#25] 11 Aug 2006

I can do it, plus I also toast bread with it. :O 

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#27]
 11 Aug 2006
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#26] 11 Aug 2006

David,

So, what are the results?

Not talking about the bagels, etc. :-) 

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