Full Version: Sublimation or OEM

From: cindy (ROBERTM) [#1]
 9 Aug 2006
To: ALL

What would hold up better to wear and tear and scratches for name badges, Sublimation or the oem transfer?

Thanks Cindy

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#2]
 9 Aug 2006
To: cindy (ROBERTM) [#1] 9 Aug 2006

Since sublimation beats even silk screening, I would have to say sublimation.

Anything that is inside the product lasts longer than anything on the surface.

From: Mick [#3]
 9 Aug 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#2] 9 Aug 2006

Harvey,
I need to send you some samples of name badges using OEM laser toners. I feel they hold up as good as most sublimation substrates.

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#4]
 9 Aug 2006
To: Mick [#3] 9 Aug 2006

I received some samples with the sample material and am impressed. All I did so far was a fingernail scratch test. Went to max fingernail pressure with a sharp fingernail and it had no affect on the clear/frosted. Did not have time to test the white. You came up with a really good substrate there, as usual.

From: TD (DABNEYTR) [#5]
 11 Feb 2007
To: Mick [#3] 11 Feb 2007

Mick,
Did you use normal romark substrates and your versa transfer paper?

I was wondering if you have posted any pics and what settings or proceedure you used?

Thanks

From: Mick [#6]
 11 Feb 2007
To: TD (DABNEYTR) [#5] 11 Feb 2007

I don't have any pictures here at home. The engraving plastics take a very good full color image. If you e-mail me your address I will send you a sample.

Mick Eminger
Cactus Equipment & Supplies
800-440-6847
mick.eminger@gmail.com

EDITED: 11 Feb 2007 by MICK

From: jpkevin [#7]
 12 Feb 2007
To: cindy (ROBERTM) [#1] 12 Feb 2007

You can take a Unisub FR Plastic name badge that has been sublimated and with a dime rub back and forth across the face of the plastic with a lot of pressure, and not scratch off the image. I have not seen any other process match that test.

From: logojohn [#8]
 12 Feb 2007
To: ALL

I have tried all 3 brands of OEM laser paper( standard, not the new white method etc.) with a Konica Minolta 2400W and a cheap hobby press which may me part of the problem with consistent results Will likely get a better one soon.

If I have a large run of something I can ususally find the right temperature and procedure (pad, rotate and repeat, dwell time, peel cool or hot, etc.) But usually requires several test pieces to get the settings exact. Not something I want to use yet for onzie twozies.
Even then it is normal for one or several done exactly the same way in a series to not come out right. (Some or all of the color peels off, doesn't stick or the paper sticks too much or doesn't survive the fingernail durability test.)

There is also the problem of overheating, melting or warping engraving plastic or even thicker acrylic. I have only tried metal a couple times but that doesn't seem foolproof yet either.

It is still a handy tool for some things. It has bailed us out several times when an asi supplier messed up an order at the last minute and we had to figure out plan B.

If there is a sublimation option available like metal, FRP or the limited selection of products, that is my first choice for color marking even if the per piece cost is more. It is much more dependable for even quick onzie twozies and rare that I can't get good results on the first attempt.

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#9]
 12 Feb 2007
To: logojohn [#8] 20 Feb 2007

There are a few possibilities to inconsistent results.



Hope something here may be helpful.

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