Full Version: Burnishing Question

From: carly (CAROL) [#1]
 14 Aug 2006
To: ALL

Could someone familiar with the GravoTech M40 please explain the proper procedure for burnishing with this engraver? I have searched high and low for information, and e-mailed Gravograph Support for help, but have received no response. Is a burnishing adapter used?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2]
 14 Aug 2006
To: carly (CAROL) [#1] 14 Aug 2006

Carol,

I'm not familiar with Gravograph software, but burnishing techniques are the same, regardless of the machine.

Burnishing adapters work on the principle of allowing the cutter to "float" on the surface of the substrate. Adapters aren't always necessary, but you should have one (or more) in your arsenal.

If you don't use an adapter, you'll want to remove most of the tension from the spring adjustment on your spindle and use very little depth, as set through the software. .015-.025 should be fine, assuming your substrate is flat. If not, you'll have to increase the depth.

That's the beauty of an adapter; it compensates for irregularities in the surface, while not applying too much downward pressure on the burnishing tool.

Diamond burnishers cost more than carbide burnishers, but they hold their shape longer and they're more versatile, i.e. you can cleanly burnish aluminum with a diamond burnisher, where a carbide burnisher will "tear" at aluminum.

EDITED: 14 Aug 2006 by DGL

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#3]
 15 Aug 2006
To: carly (CAROL) [#1] 15 Aug 2006

Carol (Carly?),

Was your question more Gravograph software related?

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#4]
 15 Aug 2006
To: carly (CAROL) [#1] 15 Aug 2006

The problem I have with the IS400 is that with a burnishing adapter the bits are too short. (You cannot get longer bits, I have tried.) You need to remove the micrometer to have the bit stick out. I use Stunt's method. It is much easier. Be sure to back off the spring ALL the way. I never had to up the spring pressure on that machine for anything.

From: carly (CAROL) [#5]
 15 Aug 2006
To: ALL

Thanks for your replies. I have a diamond burnisher, and I purchased a Gravoglyde burnishing attachment, but I am confused about how to use it. My engraver has a cutter button that you insert the cutter into, and tighten, to lock it into place. The burnishing attachment has a threaded end, but there is nothing to screw it into. Up until now, I have been diamond drag engraving using a diamond drag adapter, but I want to use this machine to it's full potential. I feel frustrated, and stupid, because even though I understand the software pretty well, I don't understand the simple mechanics of the engraver. Thanks so much for your help.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#6]
 15 Aug 2006
To: carly (CAROL) [#5] 15 Aug 2006

Not knowing what your adapter looks like, I can say that the upper (threaded) end of my adapter has a small spring and a gnurled adjustment knob, which let's you adjust downward tension of the burnisher.

It's a minute adjustment of pressure. Nothing like what you would see through your machine's spindle spring.

When installed correctly, you should be able to move the "business end" of the cutter up and down with your finger.

From: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#7]
 15 Aug 2006
To: carly (CAROL) [#5] 15 Aug 2006

You Said: My engraver has a cutter button that you insert the cutter into, and tighten, to lock it into place


Is this button by chance brass and have a knurled edge??

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#8]
 15 Aug 2006
To: carly (CAROL) [#5] 15 Aug 2006

If it is like a standard adapter, it screws into the spindle like a bit would. The bit then goes through it and is held by the setscrew on the upper section. It should not be tightened too much or the burnisher/adapter will not move up and down smoothly. Only the top that holds the bit moves.

XXX Adapter top
/
/ Spring
/
XXXX Bottom that screws into the spindle.

If with the bit set as far down in the adapter as it can go and still be held by the screw, the tip does not protrude from the nose, you will have to remove the micrometer by unscrewing it.

Remember that you have to get the micrometer back to the same spot afterwords or your bits will be heighted wrong. My trick is to screw the micrometer all the way on till it stiffens. Now unscrew it till you pass '0' once then down to 10. You are now set to .010 depth and the bits should be readjusted to the '0' now set. Doing this will assure you that every time you remove the micrometer, it goes back in the same spot.

From: carly (CAROL) [#9]
 15 Aug 2006
To: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#7] 15 Aug 2006

Yes, the button is brass...you can see it here:
http://thetaglady.com/graphics/cuttersetupwr.jpg

From: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#10]
 15 Aug 2006
To: carly (CAROL) [#9] 15 Aug 2006

Have you tried to unscrew it..?

From: carly (CAROL) [#11]
 16 Aug 2006
To: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#10] 16 Aug 2006

It can be removed by loosening the bottom screw.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#12]
 16 Aug 2006
To: carly (CAROL) [#11] 16 Aug 2006

Does the cutter "float" when you try to lift it from the bottom?

If so, you're ready to go.

From: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#13]
 16 Aug 2006
To: carly (CAROL) [#11] 16 Aug 2006

When you buy a new cutter it has a brass threaded fitting on the top. What do you do with this knob. Do you remove it? or do you use it by screwing it into the spindle??

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#14]
 16 Aug 2006
To: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#13] Unread

If you are using the machine's spring you screw it into the spindle.

If you are using the featherweight you remove it and use just the bit in the featherweight that then screws into the spindle.

From: carly (CAROL) [#15]
 21 Aug 2006
To: ALL

Thanks to all who replied to my post. I was very confused about this, because the page in the manual instructing how to put the cutter into the spindle shows the cutter inserted into the cutter button. However, it also says that you should have as many cutter knobs as you have cutters, so you can leave them together and keep the settings for possible jobs to be carried out in the same conditions in the future. I couldn't figure out how (or if) the cutter knob was supposed to go on the spindle, or how to use the burnishing adapter. I finally spoke to a tech at Gravograph, who told me that you don't use the cutter knob, and you don't use a burnishing adapter with the M40. He said that the reference to cutter knobs in the manual applies to a different engraver.
I would like to thank everyone who tried to help...I appreciate it so much!

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#16]
 21 Aug 2006
To: carly (CAROL) [#15] 21 Aug 2006

quote:
I finally spoke to a tech at Gravograph, who told me that you don't use the cutter knob, and you don't use a burnishing adapter with the M40.


That presents a mystery. How does a person go about burnishing with the M40?

Unless the M40 uses a collet-loading spindle, with its own "float factor", I can't think of another way to hold the burnishing cutter.

EDITED: 21 Aug 2006 by DGL

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#17]
 21 Aug 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#16] 21 Aug 2006

From the picture I just viewed it looks like a bottom loading collate with the top of the spindle covered, unless it is some sort of a hinged cover that does not show well in the picture.

They also have a blurb that it is auto Z sensing.

Those two things make me ask how to burnish with that machine unless you can set the spindle to a very low pressure. If it senses on every cutter-down that is possible.

Right now it is still a very valid question to me.

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