Full Version: Rowmark Textures

From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#1]
 1 Sep 2006
To: ALL

Rowmark lists their Textures line as UV Stable and Outdoor weatherable. On their website they list "no noticeable change in color after 500 hours of exposure in the Fade-O-Meter tester".

I've contacted Rowmark but all their technical people are out for the holiday. The best guess by the person that responded was that they have a 2-year warranty.

Does anyone have any experience, direct knowledge, testing, or anything else that might shed some 'light' on how long Rowmark Textures may hold up to the elements? I realize there are a lot of variables, but what would a good response to a customer who asks, "How long with this last outside?".

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#2]
 1 Sep 2006
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#1] 1 Sep 2006

I have been selling the textures as an outdoor material for about 15 years. Not one complaint.

It also has a very hard surface and is very scratch resistant compared to others. If you scrape an area hard with a fingernail multiple times you might see a faint bit of white powder, it is fingernail not the texture.

From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#3]
 1 Sep 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#2] 1 Sep 2006

Harvey;

Thanks. I've been using it far less than you, but I've had good results. It's pretty tough stuff. I'm running my own field tests. I'll report the results..... in about 15 years.

Back in post 1646.7 you stated that the Textures was NOT laserable. That was back in July of 2005. Have they recently changed it to make it laserable or have they just accepted that it can be? Their latest literature identifies it as laserable. The capsheet (.007 and .010 on the yellow) makes it more difficult to laser than say, LaserMax, but it can be done. I've even gotten excellent results with images.

The only real problem I've had is warping when removing large areas of material.

Oh, my response to the customer's question? "Harvey said 15 years or more!" ;^)

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#4]
 1 Sep 2006
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#3] 1 Sep 2006

They were not considered laserable by Romark because they did tend to curl a bit especially when large parts were cut out, like a picture.

They said that the material had no PVC and could be used in a laser safely, as all of their materials.

I have not tried their yellow, but the blue and red are the toughest to laser. The color does not change and disappear when engraved. It will redeposit on the item in the direction of the airflow.

The trick around this is to either engrave it with a much lower power a second time, or use a stiff brush and some lighter fluid to remove the colored powder deposit. Usually doing both gets a faintly better result. Looking critically at the white behind the blue, there will be a faint blueness there, but against the blue it is quite white. [Maybe that faint blueness will disappear after 15 years.]

From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#5]
 1 Sep 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#4] 1 Sep 2006

My vote for toughest is the yellow. It engraves black which helps, but the bright yellow makes for a tough clean-up. And the capsheet is thicker on the yellow which creates more debris.

I just completed 2, small (4" x 4") exterior signs and I ended up running three passes. I tried something new. Rather than running a higher powered pass first and then a clean-up pass, I ran three passes at the same settings. They signs look excellent. required very little clean-up and there was very little bowing (curl). I corrected the minor bowing by running them under warm (not hot!) water and bowing them in the opposite direction. Worked great!

I had been using mineral spirits for clean-up, but the Naphtha works better/quicker.

Unfortunately, I don't think I can charge my usual rates for these two signs. I'll just settle for a little less and figure that I just put a lot more toward my education.

From: logojohn [#6]
 1 Sep 2006
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#1] 1 Sep 2006

I used some of rowmarks or possibly bur-lane's house brand in blue texture.

It was on my back fence as a house number. I put the holes too close to the edge so the wind gradually caught it and broke the holes out.

When I went to remove it to replace it, it still looked bright blue and white but it had become very brittle. Just slighly flexing it caused it to snap and break like glass.

.

From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#7]
 1 Sep 2006
To: logojohn [#6] 2 Sep 2006

How many years was it up and exposed to the elements? What direction was it facing (ie was it in the shade or sun more)?

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#8]
 1 Sep 2006
To: logojohn [#6] 2 Sep 2006

I had that problem with the IPI California Colors. Two to three years in storage and the just shattered when you tried to do anything with them. I have not had that problem with old Romark or Gravoply material. Never had it outside for years though. Oops, wrong, I have a Black over white Romark Texture on my mailbox for over ten years facing south. Do not know if is faded, but it still looks black on a casual glance. I will have to check it tomorrow if the tropical storm lets me out of the house.

From: logojohn [#9]
 2 Sep 2006
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#7] 2 Sep 2006

I don't remember exactly how long it was up but I think it was about 5 years. But like I said the color and white letters were still good as new.

It was in the open facing southwest so had full sun all afternoon and brutal Texas 100+ temperatures.

.

From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#10]
 2 Sep 2006
To: logojohn [#9] 2 Sep 2006

Excellent. Thanks!

From: ABH (BACHI) [#11]
 2 Sep 2006
To: ALL

My two cents worth of input on this subject.

I have been using rowmark textured .062 with adhesive, black over white for over a year. the product is control panels, some with 96 half inch holes ,intended for high tech equipment used by the military.

I had initial problems with the rastering and also the cutting.
This is the way I do it now and have had no problems and no complaints.
I have a 50 watt Explorer.

Without masking:
One pass only at speed 90, power 55, DPI 500, PPI 400.

No air assist for rastering.

Air assist for cutting

Bottom to top engraving direction.

Clean the cut panel with a light application of nail polish remover with acetone, and then with rubbing alcohol, 90 percent.

When I use masking tape, I increase the power to 70 percent or do two passes at 55 percent. No cleanup in this process.

I am getting excellent, sharp results.

I hope this helps.

Bachi

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#12]
 2 Sep 2006
To: ALL

I just checked out the sign on my mailbox.

I have no idea how brittle it is, and it is wet so that may cover some imperfections. (It was adhered with acrylic adhesive tape.)

It still looks like the day it was mounted, even the faint marks from the spinning bit are there.

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