Full Version: Acrylic routing
From: kkilaser [#1]
29 Sep 2006
To: ALL
To All,
I have a Roland EGX-400 and need to router out a 2" x 4" section
about a 1/16 of an inch deep out of cast acrylic. Using a parallel cutter with a .125 tip, could I cut the 1/16" depth with one pass or should I
run multiple passes. I don't have the toll as of yet, I am trying to price
the job but am not sure how many pass it would take. Any help would
be appreciated.
Don
KKI Laser Services
EDITED: 29 Sep 2006 by HARVEY-ONLY
From: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#2]
29 Sep 2006
To: kkilaser [#1] 29 Sep 2006
EDITED: 29 Sep 2006 by PENINSULATROPHY
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#3]
29 Sep 2006
To: kkilaser [#1] 29 Sep 2006
It may be possible to make the route-out in one pass, but you'd have to engrave it so slowly that multiple passes may be quicker.
The other thing you may run into, if acylic heats up, to a point of melting, (cast acrylic would be much less a problem than extruded) it can adhere to the cutter, ball-up and ruin the piece.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#4]
29 Sep 2006
To: kkilaser [#1] 29 Sep 2006
In addition to the other advice, use a low spindle speed. For a .125 diameter in acrylic below 10,000 RPM will heat the cutter less and produce a better edge.
Also be aware that the acrylic will wear that bit rather fast. Your signs of wear will be a frosting on the edge. A glob on the bit means you pushed it too hard and the bit overheated the plastic. Carbide bits do not loose the heat rapidly. That is one advantage of a carbide tip in a steel shaft. It helps dispel the heat a bit more quickly.
From: kkilaser [#5]
29 Sep 2006
To: ALL
Thanks for all the good information.
Don