Full Version: Engraving with featherlite

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2]
 24 Nov 2006
To: varn (VARNCO) [#1] 3 Dec 2006

The purpose of a featherlite adapter is to have the cutter "float" (on the adapter's spring) while engraving.

Using a collet, would lock the cutter in a stationary position, thereby, rendering the adapter useless.

Message 5404.3 was deleted

From: varn (VARNCO) [#4]
 3 Dec 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2] 3 Dec 2006

So, I wouldn't use a collet at all? Not even a solid one?

Wouldn't this cause damage to the spindle?

I am engraving into soft metal (pure silver)... so I don't need a lot of pressure.

I'm not satisfied with the dragging results using the surface selecting ability of the 1212 itself (proximity sensors).

I have a different thread on my problems.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#5]
 3 Dec 2006
To: varn (VARNCO) [#4] 4 Dec 2006

Let's make sure we're understanding the same definition of a "collet."

The cutter is still loaded through a spindle, but a collet is a means of clamping the shaft of a cutter, close to the business end.

You may be referring to a nose cone depth regulator, which can be made of steel or delrin and rides directly on the surface of the substrate, allowing the end of a cutter to protrude past its opening at a user-prescribed depth.

EDITED: 3 Dec 2006 by DGL

From: varn (VARNCO) [#6]
 4 Dec 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#5] 4 Dec 2006

See attached image.

One is split, and one is solid. I assume the split one is made to "clamp down" on the cutter. Do they both "clamp down" on a cutter and hold it tight?

I wouldn't just use the featherlite with the draw bar in place, but not use a collet? If I do this, won't the spring action of the featherlite be useless, as it won't be screwed into anything solid?

I only have a split collet, and don't want to purchase a solid one unless it's necessary.

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#7]
 4 Dec 2006
To: varn (VARNCO) [#6] 18 Feb 2007

It appears that you can use it on the solid collet, non-compressible. This is assuming that the bit is long enough to make it through the bottom and still be grabbed by the adapter.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#8]
 4 Dec 2006
To: varn (VARNCO) [#6] 18 Feb 2007

OK,

I've worked on a Vision machine, with that (split-collet) spindle configuration, although, I've never tried to use a featherlite adapter with it.

As you're discovering, they're not condusive for use with a burnishing adapter.

Have you tried finding a delicate balance, between barley tight and loose?

If that makes any sense.

From: Cap'n Ron (RONSTROWGER) [#9]
 4 Dec 2006
To: varn (VARNCO) [#1] 18 Feb 2007

The collet is nessisary to lock the draw bar into the spindle creatinga place for your spin in cutter. You need a split collet to lock routing cutters in place so that your machine controls the depth. You need a solid collet so that your machine can have limited travel while your cutter floats with a somewhat constant pressure across the engraving surface. The later of the two is for burnishing and diamnd drag engraving with a long cutter such as a rotating diamond. You may want to talk your cutter supplier about dragging a cutter of this type. I have been succesful doing silver belt buckles this way in the past. The machine doesn't have quite the finess and the featherweight gives you that extra soft touch.

Show messages: All  1  2-9

Back to thread list | Login

© 2024 Project Beehive Forum