Full Version: Dividing up an image
From: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#1]
27 Dec 2006
To: ALL
I need to divide an image up for dye sublimating onto tile. Here is the scenario:
The image is 36" x 36" and the tiles are 12" x 12".
At first glance you might think that simply creating a 3x3 grid (Corel X3) and using powerclip to place the image in the grid would work, but here is the issue. The tiles need to have a bit of overlap to allow the image to bleed over the edge of the tile. This isn't as simple as taking the 12"x12" section and enlarging by a small amount, it has to be overlap from the image next to it. So what I really need is to have 9 images that are 12.1" x 12.1" that overlap the image next to it by .1".
Does this make any sense at all? It's really much harder to describe in writing than to just think it out or say it...
Do you have any ideas how to do this without manually placing each section into a powerclip?
There is a program that does this, YottaPrint, but the printing must be done from within the program, it prints magenta and the emails I have sent to support have gone unanswered. Hopefully my refund request will be answered...
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Gary
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2]
27 Dec 2006
To: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#1] 27 Dec 2006
Gary,
Enlarge your image to 36.3 x 36.3
That will allow for the overlap.
Create a grid with 12.1 x 12.1 dimensions.
"Select" one of the segments of the grid and "Print Selection."
Edit: Those are instructions for printing from Photoshop. Hopefully, a variation in Photopaint will work similarly.
EDITED: 27 Dec 2006 by DGL
From: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#3]
27 Dec 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2] 27 Dec 2006
David,
Thanks for the reply. The problem with that method is that you are not truly overlapping the image. What I really want is a 12 x 12 segment with .1" from the adjacent tile, not just enlarging the 12 x 12 to 12.1 x 12.1. I have an image attached that shows this a little more clearly. The black lines are the 12 x 12 tile and the red lines are the .1 overlap I want. If I just enlarge the entire image and make the tiles bigger it doesn't overlap.
I hope this makes sense...
Gary
Edit: Here is a better picture
EDITED: 27 Dec 2006 by LASER_IMAGE
From: UncleSteve [#4]
27 Dec 2006
To: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#3] 27 Dec 2006
If you make the transfer larger than the tile, you will get the image to wrap down the bevel on the tiles. If you "overlap", you will get the same edge twice! Once on each tile's edge.....
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#5]
27 Dec 2006
To: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#3] 27 Dec 2006
Gary,
The reason for making the image .10 over the size of your tile, is so that you have a little "wriggle" room in the printing of the tile.
Otherwise, if the size of the transfer were too exact, you run the risk of a slight shift of the tile, causing a white line or unprinted piece of the tile to show.
In printing this way, you're actually "losing" a small portion of the overall image, which is why I can understand your feeling the need to overlap the image.
The fact is, even with a slight loss of the image, your mural will look fine.
There's really no need for an overlap or trapping of the image.
EDITED: 27 Dec 2006 by DGL
From: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#6]
27 Dec 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#5] 27 Dec 2006
That is exactly what I was worried about. You don't think it would be noticable? If not, it would sure be a lot easier than trying to mess with the overlap issue. Simply enlarge, powerclip to the grid and print - me likey... B-)
Gary
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#7]
27 Dec 2006
To: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#1] 27 Dec 2006
I wrote an article on that a long time ago, it is on my home computer, but I will try to remember. I have not done it in a few years.
The first thing to know is if there are tabs on the tile and it will be grouted.
If yes it is simple. Make your boxes the size of the tile including the tabs, it will then look right. You then group all of the boxes, (I think it is group not combine.) Then you powerclip to the group. Ungroup and you have the individual pieces.
If the tiles butt against each other you will need to make the boxes .2 inches larger, (12.2) to get that necessary .1 alignment frame. If you are really good and nothing moves you can go smaller, but why do that. You then overlap the boxes that .2, (.1 from each tile), and group. Powerclip and ungroup.
With the tabs you must throw away the image that would be in the grout for the final image to align correctly. Without the tabs you need the overlap to be duplicated on all the pieces to use for alignment.
This works in Corel Draw 9, never tested it in X3.
From: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#8]
27 Dec 2006
To: UncleSteve [#4] 27 Dec 2006
If you make the transfer larger than the tile, you will get the image to wrap down the bevel on the tiles. If you "overlap", you will get the same edge twice! Once on each tile's edge.....
I wanted to accomplish two things: Cover the (visible) edge of the tile and not have the image look like it had been cut apart and the pieces separated.
The best way to show this is a picture. See how the circle is no longer a circle? That's what I'm trying avoid.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9]
27 Dec 2006
To: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#6] 27 Dec 2006
Take the small leap of faith.
I had the same concerns before I made a tile mural.
Seems to defy common sense, but it works. :-)
From: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#10]
27 Dec 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9] 27 Dec 2006
The only problem with that "leap of faith" is that it will mean that the untold hours I have spent over the last week trying to find the solution to the "problem" were a complete waste of time. Fortunately it was usually between 10pm and 2am that I was researching so I wasn't losing productive work time - just sleep time...
I really appreciate the experience you guys have and how you can explain to this newbie this "problem" is really not a problem.
THANKS to everyone!
From: UncleSteve [#11]
27 Dec 2006
To: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#10] 27 Dec 2006
From: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#12]
27 Dec 2006
To: UncleSteve [#11] 27 Dec 2006
From: Shaddy [#13]
27 Dec 2006
To: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#1] 27 Dec 2006
I don't know about a better way, or what would work or not... But to answer the original question...
Make the image/page 36.2 x 36.2. Then make a 3x3 grid of 12x12 squares, lined up right on the edges (total dimensions of 36x36) centered on the page (I made them red for clarity). Then make nine 12.2 x 12.2 squares (I left them black). individually center each new square over an old red square.
The black squares now have an outer dimension of 36.2 and overlap each other black square by .2.
Take each black square and power clip-copy-paste into new CDR with a page size of 12.2 x 12.2 and print onto centered item.
CDR saved as Ver 9
EDIT... I think i misread, I made the overlap .1 on all sides, I guess change wherever I say .2 to .1 and you'll have a .05 overlap. Hopefully the concept still applies.
Shaddy
EDITED: 27 Dec 2006 by SHADDY
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#14]
28 Dec 2006
To: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#1] 28 Dec 2006
I found the article.
------------------------------------------
Making a Corel Template for Tile Murals
This is descended from the post of ARTGLASS crediting Tropical Graphics, crediting the original to Imprints, USA. Thank you all for this solid foundation to start from. It works in Corel 7 and 9. I have not tried it in any other version.
To make a template for tiles WITH overlapping edges to aid in alignment when subbing, use this procedure. Modify if you need loss of image for tiles with spacers.
Be sure that your image can be made to .2 inches larger than the final picture. (You will lose .1 inch from each edge.)
1) Open a new file in the normal size that you use.
2) With the box tool draw a box. Resize it to .2 inches longer and .2 inches higher than your tile to provide a .1 inch overlap on each edge.
3) Using the 'select' tool, click outside of the page. Set the duplicate X value to the horizontal size of the tile plus .1 inch and the duplicate Y value to 0.00.
4) Using 'ctrl+d' duplicate the number of tiles that you will use across.
5) Click outside of the page again. Set the duplicate X value to 0.00 and the duplicate Y value to the size of the tile plus .1 inch, remembering to make it a negative value. Now select all of the boxes and duplicate with 'ctrl+d' the number of tiles you will use downward.
6) Select all of the boxes and click on 'combine', Not group.
This gives you the template. Follow the instructions found at the Tropical Graphics website from here. When you separate the boxes there will be a duplicate edge on each tile containing a piece of the next tile image to help in aligning the image without losing the edge piece of image between tiles.
The Corel 7 print preview works a little differently than The Tropical Graphics instructions. To solve this problem put as many tiles on the page that will fit, then move toe others outside the borders of the page. Click 'layout' and 'insert pages' to add pages. When you go to the next page, anything outside of the original page will still show. Move what you need onto the page. You will now have a multi-page document that can be printed easily in a group or as single pages.
Thank you so much Dave & Lynn of Art Glass, Tropical Graphics, and Steve at Imprints, USA.
From: Doug (JDOUG5170) [#15]
28 Dec 2006
To: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#8] 28 Dec 2006
Gary, the pro's at making large format sublimation murals, such as Bison Coatings sister company, use large format printers and presses.
They print the image as one piece and then press with the tiles all placed next to each other, all at one time...
They don't worry about the grout lines, or small little spaces.
Remember, murals are going to be viewed from a distance, the space is not going to be noticed.
Now, we in the real world, using our small format printers and having to do the tiles individually, at .1" to our tile size to allow for easier placement onto the press.
Doug
From: Doug (JDOUG5170) [#16]
28 Dec 2006
To: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#12] 28 Dec 2006
Gee, I, as a member of the DSSI forum now feels little to no desire to answer any more of your questions.
Thanks.
Doug
From: UncleSteve [#17]
28 Dec 2006
To: Doug (JDOUG5170) [#16] 28 Dec 2006
Give the kid a break.... :-)
From: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#18]
28 Dec 2006
To: Doug (JDOUG5170) [#16] 28 Dec 2006
Doug,
I really was kidding with that statement. I know that all of the forums I belong to have a lot of overlap with their members. I guarantee that a very large portion of EE, WOE, SMC, DSSI, etc., are the same people. We all share similar interests and the people who post a lot on one forum most likely post a lot on others as well. I can't tell you how many posts I see from the same people on all forums.
I hope you were kidding as well, I certainly didn't mean to offend anyone.
Gary
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#19]
28 Dec 2006
To: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#18] 28 Dec 2006
Just curious. To how many forums did you post your question?
From: Laser Image (LASER_IMAGE) [#20]
28 Dec 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#19] 28 Dec 2006
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