Full Version: need help with color sign and locked file

From: MR C (MOSHE) [#1]
 27 Jan 2007
To: ALL

Customer sent me this .eps file. wether I open it in.ai or in Corel Draw
I cant manipulate it

I need a few classy signs with the color variations, It may not need to be an exact match, but it needs to at least have different shades.

I have a laser and a rotary machine

I havent been satisfied with the sharpness and the percieved value of the sublimated signs

I am in Quebec, Canada

What would you suggest?

I hope the attachment is uploaded

EDITED: 28 Jan 2007 by DGL


From: Bob (QLEAPP) [#2]
 27 Jan 2007
To: ALL

I was able to open the file and 'Ungroup' the graphics. I have saved a copy as Corel Draw X3

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#3]
 27 Jan 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#1] 27 Jan 2007

quote:
I havent been satisfied with the sharpness and the perceived value of the sublimated signs.


You may not have seen good examples of the art form.

A good result relies on a conscious combination of substrate, transfer paper, ink, printer settings and proper pressing techniques.

Other than that, it's a snap! :-)

From: Mike (MIKEN) [#4]
 27 Jan 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#3] 28 Jan 2007

I was able to open the file in X3 as well.

If you're set against using sublimation you might consider reverse laser engraving with color fill.

From: MR C (MOSHE) [#5]
 28 Jan 2007
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#4] 28 Jan 2007

I can open the file but I just cant ungroup it.

How can I laser this so that I get slightly different colors out of the same paint with different amounts of shading?

I think what I really want to know is how do you do shading in Corel?


From: Mike (MIKEN) [#6]
 28 Jan 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#5] 28 Jan 2007

First try to import the file into Corel using the EPS, PS, PRN filter. That should bring the file in as curves and then you ungroup it.

From there, if you want to reverse engrave and color fill you may have to make everthing black, engrave it and then color fill each segment individually with the colors you want. I don't see one color of paint as an option.

Maybe somebody else can offer a suggestion.

EDITED: 28 Jan 2007 by MIKEN


From: MR C (MOSHE) [#7]
 28 Jan 2007
To: Bob (QLEAPP) [#2] 28 Jan 2007

thanks, how did you do it?

From: MR C (MOSHE) [#8]
 28 Jan 2007
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#6] 28 Jan 2007

The customer is not particular, they just want a different color or a different shading.

I suppose my question is, how do I set up for lasering different shades in Corel


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9]
 28 Jan 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#8] 28 Jan 2007

To achieve different shades of a color, you'd have to use various percentages of gray scale or half-toning.

The lower the percentage of gray scale or looser (fewer dots per inch) the half-toning, the lighter the shade; conversely, the tighter the half-toning, or higher percentage of gray scale, the darker the shade.

EDITED: 28 Jan 2007 by DGL


From: MR C (MOSHE) [#10]
 28 Jan 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9] 28 Jan 2007

Ah!

But how do I do gray scaling?


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#11]
 28 Jan 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#10] 28 Jan 2007

Convert your color image to black and white.

Instead of using RGB values for color (since there is none, other than black) use your CMYK sliders to select different shades of black (K), i.e. 100%K = solid black, 10%K = gray.

Percentages between 0 and 100, will render different shades.

Naturally, CMY values will be 0%.

EDITED: 28 Jan 2007 by DGL


From: MR C (MOSHE) [#12]
 28 Jan 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#11] 28 Jan 2007

what percentages would you recommend that I start with?

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#13]
 28 Jan 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#12] 29 Jan 2007

I would do it a bit differently.

In vector, select different shades of grey for the fill on the different objects.

When you are done with copy it and do the rest of the steps on the copy for safety.

Convert it to bitmap after sizing it exactly. (Select an even multiple or division of the laser DPI. If you can do 1000 DPI select either 1000 or 500.)

Select Black/White and then halftoning/fixed 8x8 or fixed 4X4. 4X4 will give you 16 shades of grey and 1/4 the resolution you set. Fixed 8X8 will give you 64 shades of grey and 1/8 the resolution that you set. (Do NOT resize after this step.)

Invert the image for acrylic, glass, or black brass. (The engraved area will be lighter than the unengraved area.)

Send it out to the laser.

This will give you the best results. If it turns out too light then the laser power is too high. You might stay with the power setting if you first convert to grayscale and then lighten the image about 20% before inverting and converting to the fixed style of halftoning in B/W.


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#14]
 28 Jan 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#12] 29 Jan 2007

Whichever method you choose, (grayscale/halftone) Harvey makes a good point, in that, to determine which shades to use, laser a sample piece with a number of settings/selections from which to choose.

That will become your grayscale swatch, (for acrylic), which will become invaluable, not only for this job, but for those in the future. If you plan to use that method for other substrates, makes swatches for the respective materials and save or make notes on which settings/power/speed were used.

EDITED: 28 Jan 2007 by DGL


From: MR C (MOSHE) [#15]
 29 Jan 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#14] 29 Jan 2007

thanks

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#16]
 29 Jan 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#15] 30 Jan 2007

Are the suggestions working, or are you throwing your hands into the air? :-)

I hope it's the former.

From: MR C (MOSHE) [#17]
 30 Jan 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#16] 30 Jan 2007

Funny you should ask.

I have been trying but I still am without sucess.

First of all, the reason that the file did not open was because I did not specify that I wanted it to be imported as .eps

Second of all, I tried to follow Harvey's instructions but my chinese laser is engraving it solid.

You see, I do my artwork in Corel Draw, and then export it as a .plt, ai, .dxf, .dwg or .bmp.

I then open it in the engraving program and set the settings in order to send it to the laser(print)

I think, if I could send it as dots in smaller concentration it should work


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#18]
 30 Jan 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#17] 30 Jan 2007

A few things.

From the file types you mentioned, choose .BMP. That will guarantee that the generated dots will go out as dots.

If that does not work halve your resolution then do the fixed 4x4 halftone. That will give bigger dots.

Be sure that the laser is in proper focus, use the tongue depressor test and determine if it is accurately n focus.

http://engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=5045.1

Out of all of the questions about the Chinese laser I never saw one about the spot size. What is it? If it is too large you will need a very low resolution to do an image.

EDITED: 30 Jan 2007 by DGL


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