Full Version: settings for metal
From: graniteman (MGARCIA) [#1]
30 Jan 2007
To: ALL
hi everyone. first of all we would like to say thanks to everyone who gave us support when our daughter was first diagnosed with leukemia. she is still very ill but doing much better....again, thank you.
can someone please tell me what the settings would be for stainless steele and aluminum? also does it matter if the material is anodized before or after it is lasered?
we have a Vy-Tek 60-watt laser
any input will be highly appreciated
Mark & Patty
EDITED: 30 Jan 2007 by DGL
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2]
30 Jan 2007
To: graniteman (MGARCIA) [#1] 30 Jan 2007
Happy to hear an encouraging update on your daughter. Hoping the progress continues.
Generally, a laser doesn't make a very deep mark, so anodizing aluminum before marking would be preferable.
From: Mike (MIKEHUNTER) [#3]
31 Jan 2007
To: ALL
Aluminium
For normal engraving on anodised aluminium I use 1200lpi, 75% speed and 22% power in my 60W machine (Epilog).
For very fine text (as small as 1mm high and wide) or fine lines, I up the power to 30%. If I don't do this, the horizontals turn out thicker than the verticals. At this power, large bold lettering is spoilt because the anodised oxide layer is blown away.
There is no heat-spreading effect with aluminium, hence the use of 1200lpi which avoids any banding.
Too much power and the anodising is removed completely down to bare metal. Too little and the colour is not removed. Just right and the layer of anodised oxide remains intact but goes snowy white.
Ordinary plain aluminium does not mark with a CO2 laser - the metal just reflects the beam.
Stainless Steel
Unless you have one of the new lens assemblies designed to mark on stainless, you won't get anything at all unless you use Cermark or similar ceramic marking powders.
Hope this helps