Full Version: I hate color fill!!!!
From: Phyllis (TXTWYST) [#1]
2 Feb 2007
To: ALL
Can someone please give me some pointers on using color fill???
I have Laserbits color fill paints. I panic every time I think I might have to fill something.
What steps do you take when using color fill?
I've tried masking and not, and end up with the same bad results.
I've never seen any written instructions on how to color fill, so I thought I would throw it out here for suggestions.
Here are SOME of my questions:
What tool, if any, do you use to apply the fill?
What do you use to smooth/remove the fill?
What do you use to remove the excess (water, alcohol, etc.)?
What material do you use to remove the excess (paper towel, cloth diaper, etc.)?
How long do you wait before you smooth it out after applying?
How long do you wait before you remove masking?
Thanks...
Phyllis
aka The Color Fill Challenged :/
From: Ruben (QUIEROLEARN) [#2]
2 Feb 2007
To: Phyllis (TXTWYST) [#1] 2 Feb 2007
Laserbits has instructions in their web site here is the link http://www.laserbits.com/images/pdfs/ColorFill.pdf
Ruben
From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#3]
2 Feb 2007
To: Phyllis (TXTWYST) [#1] 2 Feb 2007
From: Phyllis (TXTWYST) [#4]
2 Feb 2007
To: ALL
Thanks! Stuntman's tutorial is great! Laserbits' instructions just don't quite cut it.
At least I have the right idea. I think I'm trying to clean up too soon. But I have the fear of not being able to remove the excess.
Thanks again!
p
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#5]
2 Feb 2007
To: Phyllis (TXTWYST) [#4] 2 Feb 2007
Generally, on a smooth surface, cleanup is very easy, even if the paint is completely dry.
It's that pebbly finish of a walkie-talkie that you don't want to leave in the sun, to hasten the drying process.
Don't ask how I know. >.<
Actually, in another thread, I mentioned Citrisolve as a citrus solvent that will easily remove completely dry paint. I'll have to ad the proviso; since Citrisolve is a solvent, be sure to test it on the substrate before going hog wild.
It will attack extruded acrylic and make it foggy.
From: Phyllis (TXTWYST) [#6]
2 Feb 2007
To: ALL
I think my biggest "fear" is not knowing WHAT I can use to clean with on different materials.
Just as an FYI I stumbled on... I was TRYING to color fill something... oh geez I can't even remember what it was! i know it was wood.
anyway, I put Rub 'N Buff on the engraved part.. and obviously got some on the wood around the engraving, and then started wiping the area around it and the RNB would NOT come off! I tried rubbing alcohol.. nothing. Denatured alcohol.. nothing... water... nothing... Pledge... nothing.. SPIT.. nothing. I was REALLLLLLY getting worried.
Then I opened up my bottle of lemon oil that I've had.. oh for about 27 years now... put a little on a cloth diaper, and it wiped off like it was dust. I was amazed. It saved the day.
p
From: Phyllis (TXTWYST) [#7]
2 Feb 2007
To: ALL
I'm also afraid of filling those "pebbly" surfaces or grainy wood... like a lot of the mahogany stuff from Laserbits.
I usually laser over a mask, then try to color fill.
Any tips for that? Do I really need to mask all the time? Or is there something that will remove the fill from the pores of wood?
How long do you wait before removing the mask?
I have the feeling most of my problems will be solved if I wait longer before cleaning.
p
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#8]
2 Feb 2007
To: Phyllis (TXTWYST) [#7] 2 Feb 2007
The ability to remove paint from pores in wood, depends largely on the depth of the pore, the porosity (sponge factor) of the wood and if the wood is lacquered or coated in any way.
Not letting paint dry long enough is a major cause of it not remaining in the engraved area during cleanup.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#9]
2 Feb 2007
To: Phyllis (TXTWYST) [#6] 2 Feb 2007
From: laserman (MIKEMAC) [#10]
2 Feb 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#9] 2 Feb 2007
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#11]
2 Feb 2007
To: laserman (MIKEMAC) [#10] 2 Feb 2007
Mike,
I use WD-40 when I don't want to get overly aggressive with a solvent.
It's a winner. :-)
EDITED: 2 Feb 2007 by DGL
From: Rodney Gold (RODNEY_GOLD) [#12]
2 Feb 2007
To: ALL
Turps for Rub n buff
Meths for most paints (thinners will work ,but meths doesnt damage the dried surfaces of paints and leaves em glossy and will affect less surfaces)
From: basehorawards [#13]
4 Feb 2007
To: Phyllis (TXTWYST) [#1] 4 Feb 2007
Phyllis,
Another tip not on application but on purchasing.
Hobby Lobby sells crafters paints in many more colors and for a whole lot less than Laser Bits and it works just as well.
From: UncleSteve [#14]
4 Feb 2007
To: basehorawards [#13] 4 Feb 2007
Are the Hobby Lobby paints acrylic paint, enamel paint or other?
Are these the "good ole" Testor model paints we used to use on model cars/boats/planes?
From: basehorawards [#15]
4 Feb 2007
To: UncleSteve [#14] 4 Feb 2007
From: Phyllis (TXTWYST) [#16]
4 Feb 2007
To: basehorawards [#15] 4 Feb 2007
James:
What brand are the paints you are talking about?
I'd LOVE to have more colors!
Phyllis
From: basehorawards [#17]
5 Feb 2007
To: Phyllis (TXTWYST) [#16] 5 Feb 2007
From: laserlady [#18]
5 Feb 2007
To: ALL
Color filling on wood products is easy, IF you do it right.
First and foremost, whatever you are engraving and want to color-fill MUST be finished first. We use one coat of sanding sealer and two (or three on occasion) costs of lacquer, sprayed.
Laser your object, and then wax it with a good-quality wax specified for wood floors. This will not only remove any burn flare, but will also seal the ends of the pores of the wood that have been "cut" by the laser.
Than use a good-quality acrlic paint and a soft brush (we use a battery-operated toothbrush that starts running when the brush is pressed). Scrub the paint into the lasered portion, and don't worry about getting it on the unlasered part--it will come off shortly. Let dry for a couple of minutes, until you start to see the sheen come off.
Using a DAMP rag, wipe off the excess paint, wiping ACROSS the grain (wiping with the grain will just pull the paint out). Don't worry about paint film and residue now - it will come off later.
Let dry for at least an hour, preferably longer. Then wax the object again with the floor wax. The wax will remove the paint residue and film and leave your object with a nice shiny finish.
Viola! You're done. Just don't try to stack objects that have been waxed until they are thoroughly dry (don't ask me how I know that).
We are using Liquitex Basics acrylics, available at Michaels and Hobby Lobby - lots of color choices. Word of warning: the reds and yellows seem to "muddy" when applied to lasered areas because you are applying them to the brown areas. Other paints might do better. We stick mostly with browns, blacks, and copper because the colors don't "change."
Good luck. It really isn't as hard as one might think - just a little time-consuming.
Nancy
From: Bieb (HABIEB) [#19]
7 Feb 2007
To: Phyllis (TXTWYST) [#1] 7 Feb 2007
I did 300 color filled acrylic awards last year. (getting ready to do this year's). Last year I thought I would be brave and go it without masking. Yesterday I went and purchased vinyl sign release tape for this years awards. The awards turned out great last year, it just took alot longer than I wanted to do the clean up. I will list my steps for the awards below. The paints I use are acrylic, made by plaid purchased from Michael's or JoAnn's. If I am in either store for anything, I always look at the paints. Sometimes a color is being discontinued and you can get whats left on the shelf cheap. I think I bought somewhere around 24 bottles for $5.00, various colors being cut from inventory. What I found best for cleanup... believe it or not.... those wet wipes for your hands. Do not get the ones designed for babies, they have some sort of lanolin in them and they do a horrible job. I purchased the Wal-Mart brand, they were citrus scented and anti-bacterial. The reasons I like those, 1)little to no lint, 2) they have a small amount of soap in them. For cleanup purchase a rubber sanding block from Home Depot, Lowe's or any other hardware store, these are designed to hold a cut sheet of sandpaper (they have openings on the end where the paper would be attached to the block). I think I paid around $2.00 for mine, I bought 2 of them., just incase one comes up missing.
So here are my steps:
1. Engrave acrylic
2. Colorfill (I use index cards or old baseball cards to spread and squeegee the paint)
3. Let dry about 10-15 mins
4. Wrap handwipe around sanding block and clean acrylic.
5. Allow to dry at least 1/2 hour, then check to make sure all is clean, at this point, I would add paint to areas that needed it, or clean spots I missed. The good thing about paint filling acrylic is you can hold it up to the light and see how well the fill worked.
6. Use a soft piece of cloth to give the award the once over to remove fingerprints and shine it up a bit. Then pack them for delivery.
If you have more questions, or want clarification on something. Please let me know.
Harold
Here is the award I created for them. The State of Georgia cut-out from Acrylic Idea Factory, the small white image towards the top of the award is the county outline for Gwinnett County (reverse engraved), then the front is engraved and color filled, along with the recipients name on the base, then assembled.
EDITED: 7 Feb 2007 by HABIEB
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#20]
7 Feb 2007
To: Bieb (HABIEB) [#19] 7 Feb 2007
Now I have to add you to my list of people I envy.
Absolutely beautiful.
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