Full Version: Cutting MDF Board 1/4"

From: john (LILB93) [#1]
 2 Feb 2007
To: ALL

How hard is it to cut MDF board 1/4" actual measurement is .279. Tried to cut it at 100% 60watt 10% movement. All it does is burn the sides an not go thru. Tried to go to 100 power 50% speed and 3 passes still about the same at 100% power and 10% movement. Is this stuff real hard to cut??

Put a piece of 1/4" aspen in and one pass at 100% power and 50% speed and it went thru like butter.


Thanks

EDITED: 2 Feb 2007 by LILB93


From: Doug (JDOUG5170) [#2]
 2 Feb 2007
To: john (LILB93) [#1] 2 Feb 2007

I can't tell you about laser cutting, but, I can tell you that mdf is actually very hard on carbide cutters, much more than a solid material such as Aspen. Lots of glue in the product.

Doug


From: JHayes55 [#3]
 3 Feb 2007
To: john (LILB93) [#1] 3 Feb 2007

I agree with Doug. Because of the way MDF is made and what it is made of it is very dense. Lots of glue, pressure and mix of sawdust compressed.
Many natural woods would be much more porous.

You did not mention refocusing between your passes - This may help you.
Drop your lense a little after each pass.

I have cut 1/4 inch MDF without problem (75 watt) - I can also tell you that I have seen more than one type of MDF and some are much denser than others. Example: We commonly us 1/8 MDF from Home Depot for templates - it cuts like butter - same is true for the 1/4 of the same brand. I got some 1/4 from a different source and it was much, much harder to get through.


From: Doug (JDOUG5170) [#4]
 3 Feb 2007
To: JHayes55 [#3] 3 Feb 2007

Joe, good point made here.

There are two standards in MDF. What you most likely get from a Home Depot or Lowes type store would be a single refined process. It is much softer, less dense, and less durable.

The "Double Refined" such as Plum Creek M2 is probably the cadilac of MDF products. Costs more but is much more durable in the MDF world.

Doug


From: john (LILB93) [#5]
 3 Feb 2007
To: ALL

This stuff is like concrete, a 2'x2' sheet weighs in at 13lb. I did get it at Home depot. I wil have to try something else, 1/4" plywood. THANKS

From: JHayes55 [#6]
 3 Feb 2007
To: john (LILB93) [#5] 3 Feb 2007

John - a word of caution - most plywood will have voids that when you laser through will cause some nasty blowouts. I don't mean to rain on your parade but I thought you should know.

From: Mike (MIKEHUNTER) [#7]
 5 Feb 2007
To: ALL

I have no trouble cutting the "ordinary" MDF, 6mm thick, on my Epilog 60W machine :
Speed 25%, Power 70%, Frequency 1000

I get dark brown, very slightly sticky edges with a gloss finish!

I use the same power settings for 6mm ***internal*** grade 3-ply.
5-ply does not cut anything like as cleanly because of the extra glue.
External and waterproof grades of ply are not suitable for anything but the crudest jobs because the waterproof glue bubbles and smokes and makes an awful mess.

In the UK, general builders merchants and DIY places just have "plywood" and don't know what you are talking about if you ask for internal grade, so you have to get it from specialist wood merchants.


From: ab_laserart [#8]
 7 Feb 2007
To: john (LILB93) [#5] 7 Feb 2007

Hi John,

1/4" birch ply cuts nicely with my 60 watt laser. Power at 100%, speed at about 1%. My settings for cutting ply are about the same as those for cutting 1/4" acrylic.

I'd be suprised if you couldn't cut 1/4" mdf with your laser.

HTH

Ron


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