Full Version: Alumamark Settings

From: Joe (SMITTY61) [#1]
 7 Feb 2007
To: ALL

Hello everyone. I am having trouble with Alumamark settings. One of my lasers is a Universal 100 watt which I prefer to use over the 60 watt one I have. I am real close to marking black with 2 passes but sometimes it is still marked a brownish color. I have adjusted for hours the speed/power ratio and have a setting that I am afraid is as close as I can get but not optimim. Anyone have a 100 watt Universal with the same issues with Alumamark?

EDITED: 7 Feb 2007 by DGL


From: Mike (MIKEN) [#2]
 7 Feb 2007
To: Joe (SMITTY61) [#1] 7 Feb 2007

Joe:
Just did a very nice photo using the following settings on my Trotec 45 watt.

15 watts, 56 i.p.s., 1000 ppi, 500 dpi

If you equalize your settings you should get a good result.

From: laserman (MIKEMAC) [#3]
 7 Feb 2007
To: Joe (SMITTY61) [#1] 7 Feb 2007

Joe,

First off Alumamark is a very picky material 1% power difference can change the look.

I know it requires very low power to change it to black. Using the 100 watt system may not be the best method.

If this is the X2 model with two 50 watt lasers unplug the bottom laser tube and use just one tube. You will probably have better success running Alumamark.

What we do is to draw 2" x .25" rectangles just duplicate 8 and fill each one a different color starting with black and going in the order of the driver. start out with 7% power at 100% speed and then change the following colors up by 2% (Red 9%, green 11%) continue until you have changed all of the colors.

Now print the file from here you will have to pick the two that are the blackest marks.

Keep those power settings the same and adjust the speeds down by 1%.

You will soon find a power and speed that works the best save it and you will be able to use it from that point on.

Also use a PPI setting of 1000 and image density of 5 do not set the image enhancements when finding the power setting. However once you determine the proper setting then enable the enhancements and save the settings.

EDITED: 7 Feb 2007 by MIKEMAC


From: Joe (SMITTY61) [#4]
 7 Feb 2007
To: laserman (MIKEMAC) [#3] 7 Feb 2007

Thanks alot Mike. I do however have the X Class 100 so I only have one laser tube. I will try your method though using the colors in the print driver in succession and adjust from there. I appreciate your reponse!!

From: Bieb (HABIEB) [#5]
 7 Feb 2007
To: Joe (SMITTY61) [#1] 8 Feb 2007

Joe, Which color Alumamark? I found (by total mistake) that I only get good black lettering on the silver if it is about 1/8" out of focus. So I set my manual focus on a small sample piece of acrylic, then laser the silver and it comes out great. If I set the focus for the actual thickness of the alumamark it comes out a dull gray or brownish. I have a 25w Universal, I use the settings of 50p 50s.

Harold


From: Joe (SMITTY61) [#6]
 8 Feb 2007
To: Bieb (HABIEB) [#5] 12 Feb 2007

Bieb,

I took Mike's advise in the first response to this post. I set all the colors in the print driver to setting of 2% power difference for each color and burned 2"x 3/4" boxes and picked the best result. I've had lousy luck in the past with the silver. I got great results with the gold. I'm going to go through the same setting process with the siver and see what settings are best. Turns out with my 1oow setting of 9% power and 99% speed is optimum at 1000 ppi and a density setting of 5. I'll let you know on the silver later today.


From: Hermes (HERMESSANDOVAL) [#7]
 28 Mar 2007
To: Bieb (HABIEB) [#5] Unread

I've had my own share of mishaps with alumamark, it's a really delicate product to engrave, but once I got it engraving alright it's been very popular with the clientelle. I took the advice from the brochure that came with it when i bought it from johnson plastics and it worked just fine for me with the ULS 25e running at 55pwr and 80spd 500dpi.

Bieb you should check this very interesting post about true focus distance;
http://engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=1672.5


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