Full Version: wood business cards
From: MR C (MOSHE) [#1]
7 Feb 2007
To: ALL
I am trying to laser wood business cards.
How do I create a grid in Corel Draw to vector cut all the cards out at once, without having to cut a box around each card
From: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#2]
7 Feb 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#1] 7 Feb 2007
How to create a grid in Corel Draw to vector cut all the cards out at once, without having to cut a box around each card
I'm not sure how you cut out a set of cards without cutting out a set of cards......LOL
Can you make one card and duplicate it in your laser software or do you send the file direct from Corel?
There should be a symbol on the tools pull-down that looks like a set of shapes (pentagon, grid, spiral) use the matrix tool (grid) and size for your set. change color of lines to your laser Vector cut color (red) then break apart the grid (ungroup) now just copy and center your card text in the individual boxes... engarve
Hope this helps....
EDITED: 7 Feb 2007 by PENINSULATROPHY
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#3]
7 Feb 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#1] 7 Feb 2007
Mr. C
Using the polygon tool on the tool bar, you will find the grid tool in the fly out.
Select the grid tool and on the property bar in the left corner you will see a place to select the number of "squares" you want. You will need to determine the size of your business card to determine the size of the grid.
Once you have created the grid, you will need to convert it to curves in order to get a hairline to vector cut.
You can then add your text.
An easier way in my opinion would be to create one card, with the box around it then duplicate as necessary using the align and distribute feature. WAY faster I think.
Hope this helps and was not too confusing.
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#4]
7 Feb 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#1] 7 Feb 2007
Use the polygon flyout tool which will give you the graph tool. When you use the graph tool you need to set how many boxes you want and then determine the overall size of the total and size it accordingly.
For example if you want cards to be 3' x 1.5 and you want 12 you would enter 3 rows times 4 columns with an overall size of 12" x 4.5".
The downside to this is that your cards will have square corners.
If you're able to position your material accurately you can also use straight lines vertically and horizontally.
EDITED: 7 Feb 2007 by MIKEN
From: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#5]
7 Feb 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#1] 7 Feb 2007
WOW !!!!!
2 minutes and three answer that all say the same thing but differently....
From: MR C (MOSHE) [#6]
7 Feb 2007
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#4] 7 Feb 2007
What I meant is I wanted to know how to draw (in Corel) just the horizontal lines and vertical lines without making a box around each piece which seems like twce the work.
I just engraved my first card. It has a unfinised oak veneer. and is around 1/8" thick.
Is there a easy way to get more of a contrast?
Is there a polish that I could use that goes on easy that would gife it a better look?
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#7]
7 Feb 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#6] 7 Feb 2007
The best way I've found to increase the contast on light woods is to increase the dpi setting to 1000. You may also have to reduce the speed. This will make a deeper engraving.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#8]
7 Feb 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#6] 7 Feb 2007
From: MR C (MOSHE) [#9]
7 Feb 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#8] 7 Feb 2007
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#10]
7 Feb 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#9] 7 Feb 2007
Wipe on. wipe off. let dry.
I tend to like Min Wax stains the best.
From: MR C (MOSHE) [#11]
7 Feb 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#10] 7 Feb 2007
where do you get it?
Also, I probobly need to get a pretty dark shade, because right now when I laser it it comes out darker than the wood, so i need the stain to come out a few shades darker.
I probobly will also be able to increase the speed
From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#12]
7 Feb 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#11] 7 Feb 2007
Some woods give better contrast than others. Alder and cherry give decent contrast, as long as you don't clear coat them, I read on a woodworker forum that instead of clear coating them (which darkens the unengraved wood) it is better to use a paste wax furniture polish. That protects the wood but doesn't darken it.
I haven't tried that trick yet, but I plan to.
BTW, I've tried lasering very thin red oak, and the coarse grain made them more fragile than other woods. Hard maple was the strongest of the ones I tried but was a bit less contrast than alder and cherry. Thin birch plywood is very strong. The contrast is not that high until you hit a glue layer. Then the engraving gets very dark.
When I need extra contrast on wood I engrave at high dpi.
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#13]
7 Feb 2007
To: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#12] 8 Feb 2007
The problem I'd have with polish in this instance is that name tags are handled at least twice a day. Polish will not hold up.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#14]
7 Feb 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#11] 8 Feb 2007
You can use a pigmented white oak to lighten the wood as well as a dark stain to darken it. They also make wood bleaches, but I have never used them.
It is available in most large hardware stores and in almost any paint store, at least on the east coast.
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#15]
7 Feb 2007
To: MR C (MOSHE) [#14] 8 Feb 2007
I have never found oak to be a good wood for engraving--especially a veneer.
One of the forum members, George Perzel, sells thin woods but I do not have his address on this forum.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#16]
7 Feb 2007
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#15] 7 Feb 2007
Here's a thread where George Perzel offers his wares:
http://engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=4955.5
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#17]
7 Feb 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#16] 7 Feb 2007
Thanks.
My, you're up early.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#18]
7 Feb 2007
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#17] 7 Feb 2007
Mike,
That's partly because, since the recent forum slow down, I wanted to make sure we're still in good shape -- which we are -- but mostly because, like many people, I find the discussions fascinating and can't stay away. :-)
I have the option of going back to bed, though. I-)