Full Version: Need info on Sterling silver

From: smitty [#1]
 8 Feb 2007
To: ALL

Hi all, being new to all of this and learning on the fly and as I go, I have a customer who wants a quote on a couple hundred sterling silver letter openers. They would like some kind of logo (which I haven't seen yet) and that's it. Probably near the handle part of it. Not knowing too much about this kind of material, can this be something I could do with a C02 laser (25watt) or possibly a Yag? Cermark or not? Thanks much, this place is truly amazing!

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2]
 8 Feb 2007
To: smitty [#1] 8 Feb 2007

Smitty,

I'm pretty sure a mark can be made on Sterling silver, with either CO2 laser+Cermark/YAG, although, in my opinion, the most impressive mark will be made with the diamond drag engraving method.

It would come closest to imitating the old world process of hand engraving.

EDITED: 8 Feb 2007 by DGL

From: Mr. Science (SEANWEIR) [#3]
 8 Feb 2007
To: smitty [#1] 8 Feb 2007

Hello Smitty,

You can mark on sterling silver with Cermark, but it may be difficult with a 25W CO2. I have marked small sterling dog tags with Cermark on our 45 watt CO2. I use 100% power at a writing speed of 7%, at 500 DPI. You might have to write VERY slowly to get a good bond, and probably at 1000 or more DPI. A cake knife probably has a good bit more mass than those dog tags, so it will act as a bigger heat sink. If the YAG your thinking about is higher wattage, I would go with that laser. Good luck!

Sean

From: smitty [#4]
 8 Feb 2007
To: ALL

Yeah, originally I thought dragging it would look the best, was mostly concerned on turn around time and basically making my life easier. Would Sterling silver be like a soft metal along the lines of brass? I did successfully C02 some coated brass tags with the cermark, but haven't had the fun of trying anything on sterling silver. Thanks for the info, I am going to think this over before I shoot a quote out.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#5]
 8 Feb 2007
To: smitty [#4] 8 Feb 2007

Smitty,

Sterling's a soft metal. Softer than most brass.

From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#6]
 8 Feb 2007
To: smitty [#4] 8 Feb 2007

Smitty,

Since you indicated time and ease of job as your top priorities, I would suggest you have them YAG engraved by a job shop. This will give you the best combination of time, ease, and quality and durability of mark.

Take a second to fill out your forum profile under "My Controls" in the menu bar above. Forum members will then be able to recommend a shop in your area to explore. You may already know of one.

EDITED: 8 Feb 2007 by DATAKES

From: smitty [#7]
 8 Feb 2007
To: ALL

I wish that were an option but for reasons unknown to me(a long story) I am that job shop. Not mine, but I got stuck sort of running an engraving business within the company I work for. I am the sole proud employee of two old run down YAGs, two Co2 uls lasers and a New Hermes which was probably made in the 80's. Lucky I did find a site like this with a huge knowledge of this business for I have no one else that knows anything about engraving.(I didn't 2 months ago, but know alot about computers) I do thank you for the advice and the customer did call me about an hour after I got her e-mail for a quote. What I wanted to do was have her send the logo and either an extra "try out" part or something similar before I would quote her anything. Went with the diamond drag option, but as hard as she wanted me to quote her a price, I thought it best to want to try a part first. She said she was getting that from other places she called also, so I still have a shot at it. Now with something like this do you add a little more to the cost because of what it is made out of? Sorry this is rambling on, thanks for the help.

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#8]
 8 Feb 2007
To: smitty [#7] 8 Feb 2007

CYA if some pieces are damaged. Charge a little extra to cover that possibility. Consider it your insurance.

Depending on what is going to be engraved it could be fast or slow.

It is not in your profile, but do I remember that you use a NH V3400? That I think can be rated the slowest engraver that ever was computer driven. The IS400 can do it in less than 1/4 the time.

If you get a lot of engraving jobs for that machine it could be more profitable for your boss to finally break down and buy a new machine.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9]
 8 Feb 2007
To: smitty [#7] 8 Feb 2007

Smitty,

A person supplying an engravable item, as opposed to buying it from you, should expect to pay a little more, for the risk you're taking.

The only exception would be, if they sign off on your having absolutely no financial responsibilty, in the event of an error.

Once they have your policy laid out in those terms, it's pretty likely they'd rather pay a little more, for what amounts to an inexpensive insurance policy.

Edit: I see Harvey just said that. :-)

EDITED: 8 Feb 2007 by DGL

From: smitty [#10]
 8 Feb 2007
To: ALL

I think it's the V8000 (Vanguard)? Having nothing to compare it to, wouldn't know if it was fast or slow, but would lean to being slow considering the age of it. Yes an upgrade would be real cool but most doubtful. I figure if I hang out here and keep plugging away at it who knows, I just might start something of my own one day!! I agree about the CYA thing for sure, I really don't need any sterling silver letter openers laying around the house!! Thanks much for the advice!!

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#11]
 8 Feb 2007
To: smitty [#10] 8 Feb 2007

quote:
I just might start something of my own one day!!


Smitty,

That's what I said for much of the time I was in the engraving insustry (1971 to present).

Didn't make my move until 1990.

Better late than never. A daunting move it was, but one of the most rewarding as well.

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#12]
 8 Feb 2007
To: smitty [#10] 8 Feb 2007

I am not sure of the speeds of an 8000, never saw one in operation.

Does it have an EP controller? (Does it use cartridges or connect to a computer?)

If it connects to a computer NH has newer software that can make setup faster than the old Open System software that you had to set up even the baselines of each line. The newer software shows the layout on screen rather than having to do a screen draw and wait until it gets around to slowly drawing it.

From: smitty [#13]
 8 Feb 2007
To: ALL

Hey Harvey. It has the EP unit but is connected to the computer. No cartridges that I see. The software sends it to the EP. I have to enter the height and length of say a name plate and the software pretty much sets up the baselines ect on it's own. Hit a view button and it shows the name plate and whatever name I type into it. Preview screen I guess.It does a pretty good job of auto centering the lettering in the space you manually put in. I'm sure it's similar to the machines you were running in the late 80's. Maybe with updated software but I think that's about it. I remember discussing the fonts with you and they are limited to the EP unit, so I am guessing they got there from a cartridge? Anything like a logo or special fonts or design has to be done in Corel Draw 1st and saved as a .WMF then converted and scaled down through Autocad then converted again with a Dos type converter to I think a .PLT file for the Hermes to read it properly. Sound right? It's a long hellasious process, But I'm slowly learning!!

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#14]
 8 Feb 2007
To: smitty [#13] 8 Feb 2007

If it has an EP module there are no cartridges. The fonts are limited by the computer software. It sounds like the Open System software, not really that open. Corel Draw can output to a PLT file directly.

I know that the NH Gravostyle 98 program can drive that unit through the EP module. Maybe Gravostyle 5 also, but not sure. It is what-you-see-is-what-you-get software (WYSIWYG). It is so easy to use if you have any experience with Corel. Quite a bit different but with similar graphic interface.

I do not know if NH still sells 98 or what price it would be, but it is good engraving software. If you buy it be sure to negotiate for free font packs.

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