Full Version: Dye-sub black ink bugaboo

From: gt350ed [#1]
 19 Feb 2007
To: ALL

I thought I had already posted this thread, but I don't see it anywhere so this is a second attempt. I also posted on dyesub.org, our sister site.

"Howdy ALL! I'm attaching an image that, hopefully, will be clear enough for you to appreciate the problem I've recently encountered, both on mugs and on FRP. This particular text image was imprinted on an FRP name badge.

The problem is not consistent, coming from the same ink batch. That is, using the same black ink, sometimes the problem presents itself, and sometimes it does not. Consequently, I'm less inclined to think it's the ink, which is Artainium.

Also of note, is the fact that I'm getting good nozzle checks. In fact, just a few monents prior to doing the badge, I pressed a mug with all text using the same ink. It pressed perfectly.

In case the photo is not ideal (duh), the problem is that there are horizontal spikes or hyphens to the left and right of the font strokes; all letters.

My paper is Accuplot, as it has been for six years. Never had a reason to switch.

Because the problem has turned up on mugs and badges, I don't necessarily suspect the pressure adjustment since each machine is different. I would say that my typical pressure is med.-to-high."

Any suggestions?
Ed Holley
Victor Valley Trophy & Awards Co.
and Coffee Mugs Online
www.coffeemugsonline.com

EDITED: 19 Feb 2007 by HARVEY-ONLY


From: UncleSteve [#2]
 19 Feb 2007
To: gt350ed [#1] 19 Feb 2007

Since the lines are evenly spaced and continue across the image at the same exact heights, I would start looking at the black head for a physical wipe. Could be either schmutz (a technical term) under the head or a few of the nozzles getting touchy.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#3]
 19 Feb 2007
To: gt350ed [#1] 19 Feb 2007

Ed,

Have you tried a "physical" head cleaning?

Sometimes, all it takes is a stray piece of lint, hair, dust etc., to attach itself to the bottom of the printhead, which can cause what you've shown.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4]
 19 Feb 2007
To: UncleSteve [#2] 19 Feb 2007

Steve,

We had the same answer, but you put it in much more eloquent terms. :-)

From: gt350ed [#5]
 19 Feb 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4] 19 Feb 2007

Getting old is a $#!@&!

I actually thought that the resulting imprint on the product was the beginning and end of the problem, so to speak. Like some kind of bleed problem, or such.

However, after receiving Steve' reply, and then yours, I dug out my REALLY STRONG glasses and looked at the transfer. The actual print-out was evidence that I was imprinting what was printed to the transfer paper. So, as you both have suggested, something is amiss at the printhead; something that is inconsistent, but occurs nonetheless.

I'm physically cleaning the printhead as this is written: inside and out. I'll let you know.

From: logojohn [#6]
 19 Feb 2007
To: gt350ed [#5] 20 Feb 2007

What printer are you using.
My c86 was doing something similar except the lines were attached to the letters. The software controlled cleaning and maintenance didn't help.
Since there is no good way to manually clean it, while I was trying, a piece came apart on the right side of the trac and wouldn't go back on.
One thing nice about the cheap printers I just trashed it and got a c88.
Do the more expensive bigger printers have better access for cleaning?
I have been afraid to spend as much as the big ones cost if they are going to have a short life or have issues all the time to.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#7]
 19 Feb 2007
To: gt350ed [#5] 20 Feb 2007

Ed,

The marks on your transfer were fairly noticeable.

I've gotten to the point, where I look at my transfers under magnification (ring light) for any stray dots, etc.

Some aren't noticeable until they're printed onto a substrate. :-(

A little scrape with an X-acto knife takes the stray dots away and saves money by not wasting product.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#8]
 19 Feb 2007
To: logojohn [#6] 20 Feb 2007

quote:
a piece came apart on the right side of the trac and wouldn't go back on.


John,

Did that piece have a spring attached to it? I have friends with a C86, who had me take a look at a loose part. If memory serves, it was something to do with the docking area of the printer.

The (white plastic) piece had come loose and I was able to snap it back into place. Don't know if it's come loose since, or if the people just put it back in place themselves.

I think the bigger printers have easier access to the printheads. By bigger, I mean the Epson 4000/4800's.

I think Ed is using an Epson 1280. He'll be able to tell you how accessible those printheads are. :>

From: Mike (MIKEN) [#9]
 19 Feb 2007
To: gt350ed [#8] 20 Feb 2007

This is the problem that convinced me to throw out my bulk system and go to a cartridge. Even with that I have not solved the problem. On mine the spots are magenta and Alpha Supply seems to think the heads are dirty but I've yet to figure out how to get them clean.

One thing for sure--if I can't get this printer fixed there will not be a second one. It's a 1280 and when it works the product is beautiful.

EDITED: 19 Feb 2007 by MIKEN


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#10]
 19 Feb 2007
To: gt350ed [#1] 20 Feb 2007

Been there, lost a lot of hair because of it. Found the solution.

It is a sort of clog on the bottom of the print head, but nozzle checks are perfect. It is what I call side spit. When laying down an image, the heads spit out a lot more ink than on a nozzle check, that is what is causing those results.

It needs a psychical head cleaning AND a cup cleaning.

Physically clean the head. THEN clean the cup that covers the head when the printer turns off. That cup ends up building up peaks of particles that you cannot see but get mushed into the head when it parks. Bingo, dirty clogged heads again.

To clean the cup get a bottle of Fantastic. Pull out the straw from the sprayer. Cover the top with your finger with about 1/4" of Fantastic in the straw. Drip that in the cup. Rub GENTLY with the straw and let sit for ten minutes. Repeat that once more and wait ten minutes more.

Plug in the printer and you are set to go for a long, long time.

EDITED: 19 Feb 2007 by HARVEY-ONLY


From: jpkevin [#11]
 20 Feb 2007
To: gt350ed [#1] 20 Feb 2007

Here is how to physically clean the print head of a printer.

C80 series printer or a 1280.

1. Push the button that moves the printhead out to where you would normally change the cartridge.

2. Unplug the printer.

3. Now you will be able to freely move the print head with your hand.

4. Cut a piece of fabric about 8" long and about 3/4" wide.

5. Soak the fabric with Windex or Simple Green.

6. Lay the fabric in the area of the printer where the print head/carraige goes back and forth when it prints. This area is a little lower than the rest of the area to allow the print head to move back and forth to lay the ink on the paper.

7. Move the print head with your hand, and center it on the soaked fabric you laid into the printer. BE GENTLE.

8. Grab both ends of the fabric, lift up, and gently buff the bottom of the print head area. This will clean off any debris (sputz) that is on the print heads that may be dried and is not being cleaned off during the regular cleaning cycle.

9. Discard the fabric, and turn on the printer.

10. Run a cleaning cycle on the printer, and you should be ready to go.


Hope this helps.


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#12]
 20 Feb 2007
To: jpkevin [#11] 20 Feb 2007

Very helpful info Kevin.

Thank you.

From: Zonas [#13]
 20 Feb 2007
To: jpkevin [#11] 20 Feb 2007

Kevin, this is basically the same proceedure that I use. One thing, I have better luck with Simply Green than Windex....why I don't know I just do. I also have cut a piece of alum that fits in the 'track' with a piece of foam attached...I soak it and then just move the head back and forth across the foam.

Now I have had another problem, that nobody can explain the why of it, but it happens everytime. I have a bulk system (ArT's system) that every time the black gets low (not actually in the bottles just in the software/chip) I get the same problem shown by Ed. I go through all the steps you've mentioned, and still have the problem. As soon as I get the system to 'reboot the chip' the problem goes away. Is there a way to manually 'reboot' the chip before it gets low on the guage? This isn't a new problem I've had it for years, I just now know what to do. Wish I could just reset my guage when it is at 50% used and not wait until the 'end'.

Zona


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#14]
 20 Feb 2007
To: Zonas [#13] 20 Feb 2007

I think that the 'SSC Service Utility' will do that. I cannot post the program here but it is free. Do an Internet search. The only thing I found it will not do is a black only clean on the C80. It says it will but the printer just sits there. Maybe I need to download the latest version.

It also has a command to freeze the ink levels.


From: logojohn [#15]
 20 Feb 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#8] 20 Feb 2007

That sounds like exactly where it was. I had tried running a towel through to clean the heads but it didn't seem to help. Didn't know how much to do so the heads wouldn't be damaged. Seems like something broke so you couldn't snap anything on to stay. It just came apart
when the head moved over there.

Of course it happened when we were too busy to spend all day messing with it. I was kinda glad it broke so I could just get a new one and get back to work. Since if I got that fixed it still would be leaving marks.
Not to mention ink getting all over me and everything trying to clean it even with just the cartridges and not bulk or refillable ink.

I made a note of the cleaning instructions and will try it again next time.

From: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#16]
 20 Feb 2007
To: Zonas [#13] 20 Feb 2007

Hi Zona,


The reason you get that problem when the ink goes low is because you are running a gravity feed system. The height of the ink level affects the pressure into the print head......By having a low ink reservoir you are effectively starving the print head creating the "side spray" you are seeing. Raise the ink jar up by a half inch or so to where the full levels of the other bottles are, and I bet it will reduce if not eliminate the problem.


From: jpkevin [#17]
 20 Feb 2007
To: Zonas [#13] 20 Feb 2007

Hi Zona

If you turn off the printer and unplug it for approx 30 minutes, the chips should reset.


From: gt350ed [#18]
 20 Feb 2007
To: jpkevin [#11] 20 Feb 2007

Kevin: Thank you for jumping on board in an attempt to solve my pro-blem-o. Your advised procedure is pretty much what I have evolved to, except that I have used distilled water in the past, versus Windex or Simple Green. Maybe something stronger than water is needed this time. I'll follow your advice. Thanks, again.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#19]
 20 Feb 2007
To: logojohn [#15] 21 Feb 2007

John,

There is an upside, to living in the day and age of the disposable printers. :-)

EDITED: 20 Feb 2007 by DGL


From: Ruben (QUIEROLEARN) [#20]
 20 Feb 2007
To: gt350ed [#18] 26 Feb 2007

Ed,

when I used to have my 1280 and had similar problems I used pure amonia, and worked great.

If you do enough sublimation to compensate an Epson 4000, I recoment you to buy one.

Now that I buy one I don't have those kind of problems, also with my 1280 I never could achieve an acceptable B/W print/Transfer, the 4000 thoes very good work with B/W, colors are a lot more accurate also... just my opinion.


Ruben


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