Full Version: Rigid Laminate
From: Andrew [#1]
20 Feb 2007
To: ALL
Hi
I have a little job to do using rigid laminates. I will need to rotary engrave, and then cut out some shapes.
I have never worked with the stuff before - my experience is with brass and flexible plastics. I've got a few bits of scrap to test out on - any tips before I start would be appreciated
Is there any general guidance anyone can give on engraving and profiling the material.
I am looking for info on the correct cutter geometry. For profiling will a standard parallel cutter suffice, or should I be looking at something more robust - some kind of router bit? I have a bottom loading collet for this.
Is there any gerneral guidance on speeds / feed rates for this material.
Thanks
Andrew
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2]
20 Feb 2007
To: Andrew [#1] 21 Feb 2007
Sounds like you're referring to phenolic.
A parallel cutter should be fine, providing it's not too narrow, which may cause it to snap, if you go after the material too aggressively. If using a wider cutter or fluted endmill (much like a drill bit) is used, achieving fine detail in a shape will be difficult.
Similar to profiling metal, you'll want a much slower feed rate than you'd use for relatively shallow cuts.
EDITED: 20 Feb 2007 by DGL
From: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#3]
21 Feb 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2] 25 Feb 2007
Isn't it funny how folks from different backgrounds make different assumptions from posts? :-)
I read "laminates" to be Formica or Wilsonart plastic laminates (stuff that you would put on the surface of a table or cabinet). Phenolic would have never crossed my mind.
From: rj (RANDYJOYCE) [#4]
21 Feb 2007
To: Andrew [#1] 21 Feb 2007
Rigid phenolics actually melamine in most cases is fairly easy to engrave with carbide tools. Rigidity of bottom loading spindle helpful on small letters to reduce chipping. Nose guards can often scratch the finish so watch out.
Sharp cutters and lots of spindle speed. I believe the surface speed recommended for phenolic is 1200 surface feet per minute. so the speed for an .02 tip would be over 200,000 RPM. I have seldom seen it necessary to drop spindle speed below 20,000. If you don't have strong enough table motors you might have to lower speed to keep from burning light colors. THe highest feed rate that gives an acceptable letter will give the longest cutter life because abrasion is the biggest cutter problem.
We normally cut thourgh 1/16-inch in two passes. One about .05 deep then through on the finish cut. We frequently use tapered cutters say 10 degrees per side and the bevel is unnoticed and cutter life much longer than parallel cutters.
From: Andrew [#5]
21 Feb 2007
To: rj (RANDYJOYCE) [#4] 26 Feb 2007
"We frequently use tapered cutters say 10 degrees per side and the bevel is unnoticed and cutter life much longer than parallel cutters."
Just yesterday I also got some samples of key fobs in rigid laminate. On inspecting the edge I found it to have a very small bevel - not really noticeable.
I think I will try this approach with the tapered cutter. It will also make resharpening the cutter simpler. Does this need a small tip at the end. I had a quick look on the Antares site and what you described sounds like their 'Profiler'. The image on their site has the cutter going to a point- do you have this tipped to increase stength?
Many thanks
Andrew
From: Andrew [#6]
21 Feb 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2] 25 Feb 2007
Hi David
Yes - the material is Phenolic. The scraps I have are 5 ply - there is a black core, red layer and then white outer layer.
I broke two 'router mills' last week when using them for the 1st time with some brass. I went straight back to trusty my paraller cutters. I will stick to these or the approach Joyce gave.
I am so pleased I bought a cutter grinder recently - makes things so much more flexible.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#7]
25 Feb 2007
To: Andrew [#6] Unread
I've used steep angled cutters (such as you've shown) for profiling material. Works very well.
What they're also good for is 3-D reverse engraving. Let's you go deep into the material, without making the characters to bold.
The effect is more pronounced with a clear material, as opposed to a matte finish. Looks like raised letters under glass.
From: rj (RANDYJOYCE) [#8]
26 Feb 2007
To: Andrew [#5] Unread
I apologize for the delay in responding. I didn't receive an email notification and haven't been on.
Size the tip for the depth you are going (1/16, 3/32, 1/8 or ?), the spindle power available and toughness of the material. We generally use .01 to .06 tip.