Full Version: Scotchbrite?

From: Andrew [#1]
 21 Feb 2007
To: ALL

One of my goals this year is to learn to deep engrave stainless steel - deep enough to take a paint infil.

I am pleased with the results so far but needs some advice on 'clean up'

The pieces I am engraving have a slight dome so I am using a taperd nose cone. I am using a lubricant on the material.

I am getting a little bit of ghosting on the material, and occassionaly a very slight burr - enough to make the paint infil unsightly. If I take the piece down to my polishing machine I can clean it up.

I read somewhere about using 'scotchbrite' to clean the surface. i have no idea what it is or how it is used. My question - what is it ? !! :S Does it have any other names? Looks like an english 'scouring pad'!


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2]
 21 Feb 2007
To: Andrew [#1] 21 Feb 2007

Andrew,

Scotch Brite is kind of like synthetic steel wool.

From: smitty [#3]
 21 Feb 2007
To: ALL

It's made by 3M, I use the red kind on alot of things. I think the color determines the so called "grit" or coarseness of the pad.

From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#4]
 21 Feb 2007
To: Andrew [#1] 21 Feb 2007

http://www.3m.com/us/home_leisure/scotchbrite/

From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#5]
 22 Feb 2007
To: Andrew [#1] 22 Feb 2007

Here you go:

http://www.edirectory.co.uk/pf/880/mia/d/scotch+bright+wash+up+scour+sponge+pk10/pid/3855733


From: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#6]
 22 Feb 2007
To: Andrew [#1] 22 Feb 2007

Andrew,

It takes a LOT of elbow grease to get the ghosting out of stainless. In one of my past lives, I did a lot of milling on stainless sheets for paint fill. This was done without a nose cone for just that reason.

If you can manually set a start depth, and subsequent pass depths, you should be able to do the work without the nose cone....thus eliminating the ghosting (and the time/effort it takes to correct it).

Cody


From: Andrew [#7]
 22 Feb 2007
To: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#6] 22 Feb 2007

Hi Cody

unfortunately the items I am looking to engrave have a slight dome and I couldn't get away without a nose cone.

I have eliminated it applying vinyl over the top but then using a cutting lubricant became an issue.

At the moment I am just 'playing around' to see what I can do and if this is an area I want to get into. Too many people told me not to bother with stainless steel to the point where I couldn't resist the challenge. Since I started out a couple of years back I have been rotating a faceted diamond on stainless steel with reasonably good results.

I wasn't sure if the scotchbrite was something ' special' or just the same as the stuff in the supermarkets for scrubbing pans.

I used a cutting compound on my polishing machine to get the ghosting out, but its a bit messy to clean up afterward before paint filling.

cheers

Andrew


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#8]
 22 Feb 2007
To: Andrew [#7] 22 Feb 2007

Antares makes a new type spiral cutter for stainless steel. I bought one last year in a .005 tip. Amazingly it works very well when cutting a few thousandths deep. They recommend a spindle speed from 8,000 to 10,000.

Since the tip is so small I use 10,000 RPM and it works well.


From: wizzie (DSMITH) [#9]
 22 Feb 2007
To: Andrew [#1] 22 Feb 2007

Hello Andrew,
The best thing we've found for finishing stainless are 'Garryflex Rubber blocks'. Have a look at them at www.atigarryson.co.uk, we get them from our local engineering merchant.
David


From: Andrew [#10]
 22 Feb 2007
To: wizzie (DSMITH) [#9] 22 Feb 2007

Thanks for the tip - I've just done a search and have seen a couple of places local to me that sell them on line, and ebay too. Looks like a good solution.

From: gravure (INFOGRAVE) [#11]
 24 Feb 2007
To: Andrew [#1] 2 Apr 2007

Hi Andrew,

I have been engraving and paint filling stainless for some time now.
I put a thin layer of substrate .004"~ on the surface. For the smaller plates I use the laser lites material on the 4" role or the 12x24 sheets for the larger plates. The adhesive does release very well after the engraving is finished. If I am engraving the stainless without the thin material I am certain to polish the nose cone very well and apply some wax on the bottom of it. I have a number of different nose cones from metal to plastic. I typically prefer the larger plastic ones because they are easy to polish. I hope you have the ablility to sharpen your own cutters, because it is a must when working with stainless. Also the quarter round cutters and milling tools work best for me.
I always charge a premium when engraving stainless.


Good Luck...

Glenn


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#12]
 25 Feb 2007
To: Andrew [#7] 2 Apr 2007

quote:
Too many people told me not to bother with stainless steel


That should come as music to your ears. Going where others fear to tread (or learn) is the first step in creating an impenetrable niche.

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