Full Version: 40 watts, how to tell?
From: Mark (MAXMACHINE) [#9]
26 Feb 2007
To: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#8] 26 Feb 2007
One of the meters actually has a stone in it that is heated up. The temperature difference then is calculated to read in watts.
Mark
From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#10]
26 Feb 2007
To: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#8] 26 Feb 2007
Thanks for the link! I am going to order some to see how my laser does cutting the stuff.
I
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#11]
27 Feb 2007
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#10] 27 Feb 2007
You can judge your maximum speed if you can set up an output in percentage, approximately. With a knob it is difficult.
You can get the lower settings by vectoring a line across the table at very low power and using a stopwatch. The higher speeds mess you up with acceleration/deceleration time and too short of a time to actually use a stopwatch. You can at least calibrate the lower speeds using this method.
Power in/power out has no bearing on a laser. At least in the beginning, probably now also, the tube manufacturing is not quite an exact science. A run of tubes were made and what the actually put out was the power rating. Same input but the outputs of the same style tube ran from 10 Watts to 50 Watts.
From: Rodney Gold (RODNEY_GOLD) [#12]
27 Feb 2007
To: ALL
the Glass tubes are not stable , they will lose power over about 800 hrs of operation to 1/2.
And its actually not wattage that counts , it's power density that does. IE the power over area figure.
For example if your laser had a larger spot size with more power , it might underperfom a lower power laser with a much more concentrated spot.
If your laser has a water jacket , investing in a small chiller will pay dividends in tube stability and life. The tubes are realtively cheap , but increases in stability and extended life means you dont have to constantly change settings.
I was quoted a price of $1000 for the machine you have and I thought it very little money to take a chance on , even if it did 1/2 of what it claimed , it would still make you money. Your samples look good.
Try cut 3mm perspex , you should go thru at max power at a rate of at least 2" per second , you can time a square. thet will tell you that you are at least at rated or near rated power.
From: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#13]
27 Feb 2007
To: Rodney Gold (RODNEY_GOLD) [#12] Unread
From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#14]
27 Feb 2007
To: ALL
I think I will do what Rodney is suggesting.
By the way there is a PW-250 power wizard on ebay with 3 days to go at 349.00.
And there are several other items that for about $150 you can put together a power measuring device. That is using your own multimeter.
From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#15]
27 Feb 2007
To: Rodney Gold (RODNEY_GOLD) [#12] Unread
I will cut the 3mm acrylic and see what I get. Thats what I was looking for, something easy just to get a general idea of where I am at right now. With a new tube. Later I can compare and judge the power loss.
I think I can get replacement tubes for $175 plus shipping, that is just a quote and I have not actually tried to get the tubes at that price.
I can get a tube from the laser manufacturer for $250 plus shipping. That is really less than a new set of sublimation inks, I can just consider the tube an expendible item.