Full Version: Burnishers
From: logojohn [#9]
27 Feb 2007
To: ALL
I figured since she was new to the business* she may not be using one. :/
I scanned the post and didn't pick up on the reference to one. Sometimes if you don't state the obvious, you overlook the solution for them if you assume too much. Actually I don't have enough ram to remember each persons history.
20 years to me is a mere rookie. Sorry if I slighted anyone. (Not that years in the industry or a piece of paper guarantees you are good at what you do.)
*My uncle called me up to his jewelry store to learn pantograph engraving when I was 14 years old . . . in 1967! Anybody have a calculator. Talk about careful when you are learning on $200 Accutron watches(a lot back then) and wedding rings.
Actually I wasn't in the industry from 1975-1986 for the sake of complete disclosure.
Doing mostly awards now, the main purpose we used burnishers for was to get a solid bold letter on painted brass for nameplates and large plaques. A .005 tip would only be used on tiny letters as part of a plaque with larger letters so it would match instead of diamond dragging it. I was just thinking it might be a common problem of too much pressure that even newer machines have not to mention the old Dahlgrens where the featherweight was not an option. I can see where a small tip like that might be more prone to problems. Hey Cindy, with all that work shouldn't your signature be Cindy Murdoch, CRS you earned it, flaunt it! Then us rookies would know better than state the obvious.
EDITED: 27 Feb 2007 by LOGOJOHN
From: UncleSteve [#10]
27 Feb 2007
To: ALL
"Tips for Diamond Burnishing"
Light pressure is the key to successful burnishing. Remember, you are only removing a surface coating and polishing the base material. It is advisable to use a "Feather Weight" spring loaded cutter knob to replace the standard brass knob. This attachment will allow the constant light touch that burnishing requires and allows the tool to glide over any slight imperections in the surface, especially when engraving glass. The surface of glass is always somewhat wavy. Without a spring system the tool will cut too deeply into the high areas showing some chipping, and may totally skip over low areas.
EDITED: 27 Feb 2007 by UNCLESTEVE
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#11]
27 Feb 2007
To: UncleSteve [#10] 27 Feb 2007
That may be what they say, but for glass the only successful way is to use a nose cone and a depth of .001. Those burnishers will show marks on starting overlaps like an 'O'.
When I said that I have one that goes too deep, I am talking about in brass! I missed the part about acrylic. If I used mine on acrylic it would dig a deep hole also. Never a problem except for that new diamond .005 or those ancient carbide ones.
I am fairly certain where I got that bit from, but want to check before posting.
From: Myyk [#12]
27 Feb 2007
To: ALL
You're right when you state that years in the job don't always equal skill.
In fact, sometimes I think that oldies tend to get stuck in a groove and think that their way is the only way. After all most young people often have more developed computer skills and handle modern systems much more confidently.
Witness how young people confidently instruct you as to what font and size they require and often how the work must be laid out.
From: Cindy (CINDYM) [#13]
28 Feb 2007
To: logojohn [#9] 28 Feb 2007
You are right. I should sign my name that way - I've just been a slacker.
I am a newbie compared to you. I learned to engrave on one of the first TRS80's set up with one of the first Dahlgren's. But I've never engraved using a Pantagraph.
My first job was done with a bank president sitting beside me watching every move while I engraved some weirdly shaped letter opener or knife or some such thing. It made me nervous, but at the same time was quite thrilling. I also engraved something for Glen Campbell during my first few engraving months, and at the time, that was quite the thrill until I found out he tosses most of the awards he receives (or so I was told).
Up until I started engraving (and that was quite a fluke because I had actually been hired to oversee the ribbon department but the engraver didn't show up one day so my boss sat me down in front of the engraver and said here's how this works and left me to figure it out) I never knew anything about the trophy/awards business. I only knew ribbon awards.
But I find this industry fascinating and learn something new about some aspect of it every day, especially through this forum.
Thanks for all the info. I will be getting in touch with Bruce Diamonds. I am going to send the cutter back again with a sample from their .005 diamond burnisher and a sample using my new Antares .005 diamond burnisher and let the samples do the show & tell for me.
Cindy Murdoch, CRS :)
From: basehorawards [#14]
28 Feb 2007
To: UncleSteve [#10] 28 Feb 2007
I love this forum.
I just bought a burnisher and was going to be looking around for information on using it. Did not even have to look. What a deal.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#15]
28 Feb 2007
To: ALL
I checked at the mall today. My gouging .005 diamond burnisher was from Bruce Diamond, purchased from Mitchell Tool while they were going out of business. It works great on glass with a nosecone, but does give some problems when I use it on brass. (No I do not use the same bits for both, I have separate sets.)
I guess that their setup is a little different than Antares on the faceting of the bits.