Full Version: White coating the back of acrylic

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#1]
 1 Mar 2007
To: ALL

White coating on acrylic that gets mounted onto something else just got easier.

A supplier at the show gave me a trick. Use peel and stick labels. Trim the edges and put the adhesive tape on the label then plop on to its mount.

If it is free standing, you still have the usual problems.


From: Bill (ALBILLBERT2000) [#2]
 1 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#1] 2 Mar 2007

Harvey I must be missing something.. what exactly are you talking about..

From: ray (RMV0215) [#3]
 1 Mar 2007
To: ALL

Scratching Head..........what?

Ray


From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#4]
 1 Mar 2007
To: Bill (ALBILLBERT2000) [#2] 1 Mar 2007

Harvey is referring to an acrylic material that is painted or screened black on the back side so that it can be reverse engraved on the back, paint filled, than adhered to it's substrate.

Rather than paint-filling with white, he was recommending placing an adhesive label over the engraving on the back to brighten the engraving. That is, if you use a white label.

David Takes
Expressions Engraved
Acrylic Awards, Crystal Trophy, Glass Award, Plaques
http://www.expressionsengraved.com

EDITED: 7 Aug 2010 by DATAKES


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#5]
 1 Mar 2007
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#4] 1 Mar 2007

David,

I thought Harvey was talking about mounting a piece of acrylic to another piece and suggesting a way to keep from seeing voids in the bond.

From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#6]
 1 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#5] 2 Mar 2007

Dave,

After re-reading the post, I think you are correct.

I had a conversation with a staff member of Victory about their Tear Drop awards. In the conversation he referenced a label process to colorfill the award. I think since the label post was made so shortly after that conversation, I read it as the same process he was suggesting. :S

With the method Harvey mentions, it appears we are depending on the the label adhesive to handle half of the bond between the two pieces. I question the strength of that bond in the long term, especially if the award sets on a shelf that gets sun.

David Takes
Expressions Engraved
Acrylic Awards, Crystal Trophy, Glass Award, Plaques
http://www.expressionsengraved.com

EDITED: 7 Aug 2010 by DATAKES


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#7]
 2 Mar 2007
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#6] 2 Mar 2007

You were right the first time. It was recommended as a method to put a white backing on reverse engraved acrylic that would then be tape mounted onto something, such as the teardrop award or on to a plaque board.

Cheap peel and stick usually have a glue that lasts about five years and then hardens, or loses some grab. The Avery labels seem to last far longer, no real testing done but I have some that have lasted for ten years on boxes that still have great grab. The acrylic adhesive tapes we use usually harden in about five years also, but still have grab.


From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#8]
 2 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#7] 2 Mar 2007

Harvey,

This is a play off of acrylic wall plaques that we reverse engrave, then place a slotted white foam board on the back.

I have an idea... David Takes Expressions Engraved Acrylic Awards, Crystal Trophy, Glass Award, Plaques http://www.expressionsengraved.com

EDITED: 7 Aug 2010 by DATAKES


From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#9]
 2 Mar 2007
To: ALL

I've never made awards, so please excuse me if this is a dumb question, but isn't there a bright white mylar film that you could use with 3M's permanent adhesive film (which comes in rolls) and use the adhesive film on one side to stick the mylar to the back of the award? And another sheef of the adhesive behind that if you also needed to attach the acrylic to a plaque?

From: John (ICTJOHN) [#10]
 2 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#7] 2 Mar 2007

Harvey,

Be careful here - I have a bunch of Avery labels that have set for 3-4 years and they are turning YELLOW! 8-O


~


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#11]
 2 Mar 2007
To: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#9] 2 Mar 2007

One problem with applying white vinyl, bubbles. The air goes right through paper so no bubbles. They do show from the front at times.

And it certainly is an easier apply. The vinyl is so inexpensive that it might be less costly, but the time involved it far greater.


From: Vicky (ANDERI) [#12]
 2 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#1] 2 Mar 2007

quote:
If it is free standing, you still have the usual problems.
Forgive me for asking a silly question :-$ , but what would the "usual problems" be?

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#13]
 2 Mar 2007
To: Vicky (ANDERI) [#12] 2 Mar 2007

The usual problems are that this technique will not work. Paper on the back looks too cheap for me.

So it goes back to vinyl coating or painting.

My last vinyl coating job, however carefully it was applied, gave bubbles. Usually they will disappear within two days on glass when pushed down about every 12 hours. Maybe this is so much smaller that I could not get rid of all of the visible bubbles. It was quite frustrating.


From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#14]
 2 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#11] 2 Mar 2007

Hmmm.... Bubbles. I hadn't thought about that. So to do it with a film would require a "breathable" film so bubbles could escape.

I know breathable plastics are used in the health care industry, and even some freezer bags are made from it, but have no idea if there's a cheap colored film that is breathable and readilly available. (or if the "breathing" is so slow it wouldn't really work well anyways)


From: sprinter [#15]
 2 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#13] 2 Mar 2007

Use Vinyl application fluid and you don't get bubbles.

From: Mick [#16]
 2 Mar 2007
To: sprinter [#15] 2 Mar 2007

a small amount of liquid dishwashing soap in water works great. Spray the acrylic, apply the vinyl, squeegee out the air and water. PRESTO, done and NO bubbles.

From: sprinter [#17]
 2 Mar 2007
To: Mick [#16] 2 Mar 2007

Mick,

I've used that also when out of application fluid. It works great.


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#18]
 2 Mar 2007
To: ALL

I have two bottles of that sitting around here. I have not done vinyl in so long that I forgot. I guess that is why it was easier last year. Duhhh.

From: AL (SUBLIAL) [#19]
 3 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#18] 4 Mar 2007

Applying a white substrate to acrylic is not a good idea because you need to trim it with a razor blade. That is why QLT is only suggesting to apply there transparency film to glass.
AL La Costa
www.atttransfer.com
1-866-900-2830


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#20]
 4 Mar 2007
To: AL (SUBLIAL) [#19] 4 Mar 2007

Trimming vinyl around the edge of acrylic is simple and does no damage.

The problems with doing the color transfer to acrylic are only a few big ones. The UV adhesive does not grab to acrylic well. When it hardens it leaves a bead of set adhesive around the edge. This bead is easy to trim off crystal but will scrape the acrylic and start it to lift off the acrylic. I have tested it with the Chroma products and their advice to not use it on acrylic is sound. I'll stick to OEM transfer for that.


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