Full Version: White coating the back of acrylic

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#11]
 2 Mar 2007
To: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#9] 2 Mar 2007

One problem with applying white vinyl, bubbles. The air goes right through paper so no bubbles. They do show from the front at times.

And it certainly is an easier apply. The vinyl is so inexpensive that it might be less costly, but the time involved it far greater.


From: Vicky (ANDERI) [#12]
 2 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#1] 2 Mar 2007

quote:
If it is free standing, you still have the usual problems.
Forgive me for asking a silly question :-$ , but what would the "usual problems" be?

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#13]
 2 Mar 2007
To: Vicky (ANDERI) [#12] 2 Mar 2007

The usual problems are that this technique will not work. Paper on the back looks too cheap for me.

So it goes back to vinyl coating or painting.

My last vinyl coating job, however carefully it was applied, gave bubbles. Usually they will disappear within two days on glass when pushed down about every 12 hours. Maybe this is so much smaller that I could not get rid of all of the visible bubbles. It was quite frustrating.


From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#14]
 2 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#11] 2 Mar 2007

Hmmm.... Bubbles. I hadn't thought about that. So to do it with a film would require a "breathable" film so bubbles could escape.

I know breathable plastics are used in the health care industry, and even some freezer bags are made from it, but have no idea if there's a cheap colored film that is breathable and readilly available. (or if the "breathing" is so slow it wouldn't really work well anyways)


From: sprinter [#15]
 2 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#13] 2 Mar 2007

Use Vinyl application fluid and you don't get bubbles.

From: Mick [#16]
 2 Mar 2007
To: sprinter [#15] 2 Mar 2007

a small amount of liquid dishwashing soap in water works great. Spray the acrylic, apply the vinyl, squeegee out the air and water. PRESTO, done and NO bubbles.

From: sprinter [#17]
 2 Mar 2007
To: Mick [#16] 2 Mar 2007

Mick,

I've used that also when out of application fluid. It works great.


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#18]
 2 Mar 2007
To: ALL

I have two bottles of that sitting around here. I have not done vinyl in so long that I forgot. I guess that is why it was easier last year. Duhhh.

From: AL (SUBLIAL) [#19]
 3 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#18] 4 Mar 2007

Applying a white substrate to acrylic is not a good idea because you need to trim it with a razor blade. That is why QLT is only suggesting to apply there transparency film to glass.
AL La Costa
www.atttransfer.com
1-866-900-2830


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#20]
 4 Mar 2007
To: AL (SUBLIAL) [#19] 4 Mar 2007

Trimming vinyl around the edge of acrylic is simple and does no damage.

The problems with doing the color transfer to acrylic are only a few big ones. The UV adhesive does not grab to acrylic well. When it hardens it leaves a bead of set adhesive around the edge. This bead is easy to trim off crystal but will scrape the acrylic and start it to lift off the acrylic. I have tested it with the Chroma products and their advice to not use it on acrylic is sound. I'll stick to OEM transfer for that.


From: Mick [#21]
 4 Mar 2007
To: AL (SUBLIAL) [#19] 4 Mar 2007

We apply white and gold sign vinyl to acrylic all the time, no problem in trimming.

From: AL (SUBLIAL) [#22]
 4 Mar 2007
To: Mick [#21] 4 Mar 2007

Oh I forgot the transfers are transparent, that is why you have to do that.
Sorry my mistake.
AL La Costa
www.atttransfer.com
1-866-900-2830


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