Full Version: White coating the back of acrylic
From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#14]
2 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#11] 2 Mar 2007
Hmmm.... Bubbles. I hadn't thought about that. So to do it with a film would require a "breathable" film so bubbles could escape.
I know breathable plastics are used in the health care industry, and even some freezer bags are made from it, but have no idea if there's a cheap colored film that is breathable and readilly available. (or if the "breathing" is so slow it wouldn't really work well anyways)
From: sprinter [#15]
2 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#13] 2 Mar 2007
From: Mick [#16]
2 Mar 2007
To: sprinter [#15] 2 Mar 2007
From: sprinter [#17]
2 Mar 2007
To: Mick [#16] 2 Mar 2007
Mick,
I've used that also when out of application fluid. It works great.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#18]
2 Mar 2007
To: ALL
From: AL (SUBLIAL) [#19]
3 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#18] 4 Mar 2007
Applying a white substrate to acrylic is not a good idea because you need to trim it with a razor blade. That is why QLT is only suggesting to apply there transparency film to glass.
AL La Costa
www.atttransfer.com
1-866-900-2830
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#20]
4 Mar 2007
To: AL (SUBLIAL) [#19] 4 Mar 2007
Trimming vinyl around the edge of acrylic is simple and does no damage.
The problems with doing the color transfer to acrylic are only a few big ones. The UV adhesive does not grab to acrylic well. When it hardens it leaves a bead of set adhesive around the edge. This bead is easy to trim off crystal but will scrape the acrylic and start it to lift off the acrylic. I have tested it with the Chroma products and their advice to not use it on acrylic is sound. I'll stick to OEM transfer for that.
From: Mick [#21]
4 Mar 2007
To: AL (SUBLIAL) [#19] 4 Mar 2007
From: AL (SUBLIAL) [#22]
4 Mar 2007
To: Mick [#21] 4 Mar 2007
Oh I forgot the transfers are transparent, that is why you have to do that.
Sorry my mistake.
AL La Costa
www.atttransfer.com
1-866-900-2830
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