Full Version: Vector Cutting Method

From: Mike (MIKEN) [#6]
 10 Mar 2007
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#5] 11 Mar 2007

Dave:

For most of my cutting applications the Rowmark suggestion isn't the answer. I'm doing name tags and office name plates which obviously must be engraved and cut face up on the laser in the same operation.

IF it's a straight vector cut then I agree that cutting from the back is better, but on a grid and all the way through. The trick is not to overpower the cut and to mask it.

When doing inlays cutting from the back is the preferred method as you can reduce the laser kerf and get a better fit.

Herre's a picture (not good) of an abalone inlay I just finished. The abalone was cut from the back in numerous passes.

EDITED: 10 Apr 2007 by MIKEN


From: JHayes55 [#7]
 10 Mar 2007
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#6] 10 Mar 2007

Very nice Mike.
quote:
The abalone was cut from the back in numerous passes.


How thick was the abalone?

From: Mike (MIKEN) [#8]
 10 Mar 2007
To: JHayes55 [#7] 11 Mar 2007

Joe:

It was .050" and I cut it in several passes because I was afraid I would fracture it. It is very delicate and has many varying densities.

I applied glue to the rastered part and pressed the abalone into place with a piece of hardwood and light taps with a hammer. Then sanded it smooth.

Enough to do four names is about $50.

From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#9]
 11 Mar 2007
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#5] 11 Mar 2007

Dave...

When cutting the inside pieces of the plastic, how did you account for the kerf of the laser cut....do you make those pieces slightly larger? Ive not done any inlay, but it's one of those things on the list I'd like to try (...the same for wood intarsia.) Does this technique improve the cut?


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#10]
 11 Mar 2007
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#8] 11 Mar 2007

Mike,

There is, or used to be, thin sheets of abalone (abalone-like?) made specifically for laser inlay.

The material also came in other colors and patterns.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#11]
 11 Mar 2007
To: ALL

Here's a post where Mike Mackenzie elaborates on the inlay process and in an ensuing post, the abalone (Ablam) material I spoke of:

http://engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=647.9

EDITED: 11 Mar 2007 by DGL


From: Mike (MIKEN) [#12]
 11 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#11] 11 Mar 2007

Doc:

The abalone is a natural shell material with varying degrees of density. I enlarged my drawing by .005" to allow for the kerf and was able to do the first piece but on the second I only enlarged the drawing by .002".

If I were inlaying plastic or wood where I cut through the material I would go back to the .005".

David:

My customer provided the material and requested that I use it as opposed to the thinner ablam.

I used blue painters tape on the underside to keep the material together.

I concur with the remarks by Mike Mackenzie.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#13]
 11 Mar 2007
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#12] 12 Mar 2007

Mike,

The customer's always right!

I've always been fascinated by inlay work. It would be one of the reasons I'd buy a laser.

From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#14]
 11 Mar 2007
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#12] 12 Mar 2007

Fantastic...thanks Mike, I think I'll give it a try!

From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#15]
 12 Mar 2007
To: ALL

Below is the finished plaque that I created by vector cutting three different colors of plastic. The customer wanted a oak plaque, so I had Studio Workshop cut the plaques in a trapazoid shape to match the logo dimensions.

EDITED: 12 Mar 2007 by DGL


From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#16]
 12 Mar 2007
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#15] 12 Mar 2007

Nice job, Dave....I'm inspired by you guys to give it a shot! Did you use the same .005 size adjustment that Mike suggests?

From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#17]
 12 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#16] 12 Mar 2007

Jim,

Thank you.

I did a test run on a small piece of the same material which resulted in such a nice snug fit, I decided to run without an adjustment. I used Rowmark's LaserMax material from Johnson Plastics.

Mike offered very sound advice. The figure will likely need to be adjusted based on your machine, as well as the material you are cutting, be it wood, plastic, acrylic, etc.

EDITED: 12 Mar 2007 by DATAKES


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#18]
 12 Mar 2007
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#15] 12 Mar 2007

Lookin' good David!

Did you use typical engraving stock for the three colors?

From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#19]
 12 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#18] 12 Mar 2007

Rowmark LaserMax .0625"

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#20]
 12 Mar 2007
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#19] 12 Mar 2007

Very impressive!

I'm glad you explained the plaque was intentionally shaped as a trapezoid.

I thought it was a weird camera angle. :-)

Message 6287.21 was deleted


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#22]
 12 Mar 2007
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#21] 12 Mar 2007

Special Deals could also be in the area next to the logo. Some people don't see it in its current location.

So far, Chroma-Crystal would fall under digital imaging. If the subject became rampant, we could create a specific folder.

From: Mike (MIKEN) [#23]
 12 Mar 2007
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#20] 12 Mar 2007

Dave:

Great work and a kind we don't see enough of.

From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#24]
 12 Mar 2007
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#23] 12 Mar 2007

Thank you Mike. I like your abolone project as well. You warned me that you were playing with that substrate. It looks like your playing days are over and you're ready to go realtime with it. Congrats!

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