Full Version: My First Laser- Epilog Mini-18
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#13]
15 Mar 2007
To: Mikey (MIKE2449) [#11] 15 Mar 2007
I took a glance at the fourth one, 'Our Little Angels'.
Excellent job. Some here wish they could get it that good.
Assuming by the values you were scanning at your laser runs at 600 DPI. (You really need to match the image DPI to the laser DPI or even multiples/divisors.)
You can do that more easily in Corel. Size the image in Draw, then edit it in Paint. Resample to the proper DPI, lets say 2400.
Go to Image/Mode/Black and White. Select the halftoning filter and the Fixed 8 X 8 style in the dropdown. That will result in something that will look horrid on screen unless blown up a lot. But it will end up with 2400 dpi resolved to 300 DPI in a great dot pattern format for lasering. If you want to end up with an equivalent 150 DPI, start with a resample to 1200 DPI. [You will be amazed at how good, (unlike a normal 150 DPI), this can look.]
This conversion results in a pattern of expanding sized dots for the different levels of grey. Perfect for the laser. (64 levels of grey.)
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#14]
15 Mar 2007
To: Mikey (MIKE2449) [#11] 15 Mar 2007
Are you placing your images on a transparent background?
Even then, it's possible to have artifacts of the background show up.
Could be that your scanner is set for too sensitive a setting. <shrug>
I'm not a laser operator, though my comments are based on fairly heavy involvement with dye sublimation, where many of the same fundamentals apply.
From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#15]
15 Mar 2007
To: Mikey (MIKE2449) [#11] 15 Mar 2007
Your work looks great. It looks like you have the basic process of scanning, scaling, dithering, and lasering down. Very good.
There are many ways of doing the masking. There are some choices that are aesthetic and some based on what software you use. It helps if you can keep the masking seperate from the image so that you can go back and tweak the mask later if you want to.
Aesthetically some images seem to look better without masking, or with the masking going to full laser strength so the shape of the image becomes a sort of frame for the contents. This can be true with some rectangular images, and also for creating shapes like a heart with faces in it.
When doing substrates that require negative images, like dark stone, dark aluminum, and acrylic, you need the background to drop out to black on the original image. There are many ways to do that.
- simplest is to use a black brush tool and simply paint out the background. Drawback is it's not editable afterwards.
- using a similar technique but using a layer above the image layer you can paint black on that upper layer and it covers the image with black where needed but since it isn't painted on the image layer it can be modified at any time
- Many paint programs can create "clipping masks". These can sometimes be just another image layer you paint on and it determines the opacity of the image layer. Or it can be a vector layer that cuts out a shape. Vector masks are nice since they draw a line around the image and you use the handles at points on the line to adjust the shape and make it match the image.
- Corel has it's own variation of a clipping mask built in, called PowerClip that you can use to apply a vector shape to a bitmap image and cut out the image using that shape.
One advantage of painting black on an upper layer over using vector shapes is that you can adjust the size and opacity of the brush you use to create gentle vignettes in irregular shapes and with varying sharpness of the edges at different points around the image.
Another thing to think about, in cases where the background vignettes, or where you create a shape around an image and some of the background of the image is still showing. You can use the blur tool in a paint program to blur the background behind the figures so details in the background are not so noticeable.
EDITED: 15 Mar 2007 by DAVERJ
From: Mikey (MIKE2449) [#16]
15 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#13] 15 Mar 2007
Harvey:
Thanks for the input. I have an Epilog Hexlix 35 watt. I've engraved things at 1200 dpi--very slick, and have learned that even multiples and divisors are mandatory.
When you say size the image in Draw--make it larger or smaller as needed or change the pixel information? I usually change the phisical size of the image in draw and then make it a 300 dpi bmp. I send it to Photograv, load the params I got from lasersketch and auto process. Edit in paint? Like erase the background? Resample to proper dpi? I have an hp scanjet8300. I can adjust the size, sharpness, etc before the scan. Is it better to do this in paint? (I hate the scanner, lots of money, lots of compatability problems, lots of communication problems).
I'm going to take a 1200 dpi scan that I have (the little angels one) and try your recommendation. Absolute black granite is giving me some headaches. I think this dot resample is the fix and am going to give it a try before I leave this evening. Thanks again.
Dave L--yes I am using a transparent backgrnd--doesn't seem to work. I think it is a scanner issue. I purchased this model because of it's proclaimed ability. I was awestruck that it would allow a 19,000 pixel scan. 8 years ago that would have cost 20-30 k for a flatbed like that.
However, I'm certain it would crash if I pushed the package. One day will have to resolve that because big images require lots of info.
Quick story from last week. Years ago when I fabricated marble, granite, etc. a guy comes in looking for work. I give him work, he is exceptional. One day brings in portfolio. He studied stone carving under the Masters in Pietrasantra Italy. I got him other work until he could strike out on his own. We remained good friends. His work includes Michael Jordan bronze casting in front of the United Center in Chicago, Harey Carey at Wrigley Field and a host of others around the country. He called me last week. Did a large job for the Adler Planitarium in Chicago, Buz Aldrin statuary on black granite base with the Moon etched in the granite. He is unhappy with the image and wants me to look at it. Now I must make the trip--I will keep you all abreast of whats happening. Amazing that a new buz venture takes on this type of potential so soon.
Nobody new to this should be afraid. "Don't ever look back--someone may be gaining on you"
Thanks all for your time!
Michael
From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#17]
15 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#12] 15 Mar 2007
Ha..thanks for that! Now all I have to do is figure out all these new markets that are popping up for this thang. I think I can handle the graphics if I can come up with what to make. Gotta go find me a another niche. The development signage has been good but being blessed with all this capability, I can't let it go to waste.
Got e-mail from distributor today. Laser should ship today or tomorrow from Colorado. Arrival next week. Training set for next Friday.
Thanks for the reply :|
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#18]
15 Mar 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#17] 16 Mar 2007
As you say, with so many ways to go, you may find yourself involved in areas, other than signage.
Hooking up with businesses that have a need for engraving has always been my favorite ways to go.
In my case, oddly enough, some of my clientele comes from the engraving industry itself.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#19]
15 Mar 2007
To: Mikey (MIKE2449) [#16] 16 Mar 2007
I did not catch that you were using PhotoGrave.
The instructions I gave are for doing it manually without PhotoGrave. I tested it and like the control I have doing it myself. But then ULS came out with the driver for XP and it does it very well just by sending a color picture out without caring about the DPI or size.
From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#20]
16 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#18] 16 Mar 2007
From: JHayes55 [#21]
16 Mar 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#20] 17 Mar 2007
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#22]
16 Mar 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#20] 17 Mar 2007
You're speaking my language, when you mention what I call the "regular guy" marketing approach, which basically consists of talking to people and letting them know what you do.
No real salesmanship involved, but many sales to be made. :-)
From: deLazer [#23]
16 Mar 2007
To: JHayes55 [#21] 16 Mar 2007
EDITED: 17 Mar 2007 by DELAZER
From: JHayes55 [#24]
16 Mar 2007
To: deLazer [#23] 17 Mar 2007
I really like X3 if I were going to spend money for an upgrade it would only be spent going up to X3. I see no good reason for upgrading to 12. Currently I have 9, 12 and X3. We use X3 for everything except one older computer that runs a vinyl machine. Once you use X3 a little while, you will wonder why you did not change earlier.
We think x3 is easier to do designs and layouts with, dozens of improvements over 12, and is more stable that most of the earlier versions.
EDITED: 17 Mar 2007 by JHAYES55
From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#25]
17 Mar 2007
To: JHayes55 [#21] 17 Mar 2007
From: JHayes55 [#26]
17 Mar 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#25] 17 Mar 2007
Sorry, I didn't catch that :-$
Do you agree that X3 is superior the previous versions?
From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#27]
17 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#22] 17 Mar 2007
Yep, best way to do it. I'm an old hand at sales (by the way, I am a young 61 yr old guy) and have been selling something all my life. Most of my sales experience though has been related to building products and construction. Got into the sign business a few years ago as a natural tag on sale for millwork packages we sell and install to apartment and condo developments. Have been using PC's in my business since DOS was the operating system. First PC I ever owned was an IBM PC w/10 MEGABYTE harddrive. It cost $5000 in 1982? I think. Used big ole 5-1/2" floppy discs (bet some of you guys never even saw one of those!)
Anyhow, I can't wait to get my paws on this laser. I am glad I found this forum and also Sawmill Creek. I've learned a lot there too. The tutorials on Corel that Roy Brewer is putting out in both places are fantastic. Corel has done a fantastic job of development over the years and it just keeps getting better.
Thanks again :-)
EDITED: 17 Mar 2007 by PALMETTO
From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#28]
17 Mar 2007
To: JHayes55 [#26] 17 Mar 2007
Jay,
Yes! It's the best one yet. I have 12 also and I didn't think a whole lot of it, but it served my purposes at the time. My main usage of it was to design signage in Corel for submission to the developer of a project. That way, I could make a good presentation with the color fills etc. Then once the approvals are done, we use the vector artwork to develop the tool paths for the CNC in the Enroute software.
Corel has also made a good many changes to Photopaint too. I actually never used that program a huge amount, as Photoshop was my primary tool for photo editing. I enjoy making photos and use a Nikon D70 for that stuff. I don't shoot film anymore at all. I'm looking forward to being able to laser photos. I bought Photograv yesterday, so maybe it will get here next week with the laser.
From: deLazer [#29]
17 Mar 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#28] 17 Mar 2007
From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#30]
17 Mar 2007
To: deLazer [#29] 18 Mar 2007
de-
I have to admit that I've had to polish up on Corel Draw in anticipation of my machine arriving (I got the tracking number via e-mail today). The creation of graphics so that they will print properly to raster or vector requires a little study and thought, but X3 is really good and I am enjoying working with it. So, it will be "show time" next week. I'm ready! :P
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#31]
17 Mar 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#30] 18 Mar 2007
I still use 5 1/4" floppies on one of my machines, cannot upgrade that machine.
I started with magnetic cards, then 8" hard-sectored floppies, then went through the 'modern' improvements.
The first computer I worked with was a Burroughs 10. Discreet component processor with a grand total of 64 bytes memory. Talk about needing to conserve memory!
From: Bekarion [#32]
18 Mar 2007
To: deLazer [#1] 18 Mar 2007
Conratulations with your new laser system.
It is really very good model. I have purchased it for my client and they are very satisfied.
Only thing is that you should be carefull while sending auto focus to very thin materials or to the table with only a cutting grid.
the table may jump out of screws and you will have to dissassamble the table to fix the problem. Anyway this will not be a problem :)
Good luck
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