Full Version: LaserBuzz settings
From: Goodvol (JIMGOOD) [#10]
16 Mar 2007
To: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#9] 16 Mar 2007
Cody,
I also noticed how it jumps around. The first time you watch it you think that's entertaining but when you need to have the laser crank through it quickly, you really wish it would stop doing that! Can you tell me how to approach the optimization? I would love to reduce the cut time.
Thanks for the info!
Jim
From: PenMan [#11]
16 Mar 2007
To: Goodvol (JIMGOOD) [#10] 16 Mar 2007
Hi Jim,
I'll jump in here as I have optimized it too. In fact, I have to re-nest everything to make it fit my 12x18 laser bed. You change the order of the cuts by changing the order in your Object Manager docker. It cuts from top to bottom as listed in the docker. When you map your settings to color in the print section, it prints red lines first, then the black lines and finally the blue lines. So, you should always have the red lines at the top in the docker in the fastest order, followed by the black lines again in the best order and finally the blue lines again arranged in the fastest order for your drawing. Just in case you don't know how to rearrance the order in the docker, you just pick the line you want to move with your mouse in the docker and drag it to the new order in the docker. I hope this makes sense.
From: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#12]
16 Mar 2007
To: PenMan [#11] 16 Mar 2007
I don't know whether it's just the Epilog drivers that do this....but my machine starts at the very BOTTOM of the Object Manager, and works its way UP. That seems backwards, but it's the way it happens for me.
If you already have the LaserBuzz software, and Tom B gives his blessing, I'd be glad to send you my "optimized" blank file. Keep in mind that it only has the ROPE marks in the right order. Anything that makes it custom will have to be done separately, if you want it done at all. Just getting the rope marks to run in order saved about 5 minutes (and LOTS of movement) per tribute.
From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#13]
16 Mar 2007
To: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#12] 16 Mar 2007
Actually, if you think about it, when you add an object to a drawing it goes into the object manager. Then add another one and it goes on top of the first one. Add the next and again it goes on top.
So the first one you placed in the drawing is on the bottom of the list. The program engraves from the bottom of the list, engraving the first object you placed, then the second one you placed, etc...
From: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#14]
16 Mar 2007
To: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#13] 16 Mar 2007
Dave,
I understand the logic, but in my twisted little mind, it would make more sense to put the first item first, second item second, and so on.
That's just me.
As long as I understand HOW we get from point A to Point B, I'm fine with either way. ;-)
Cody
From: lindalee [#15]
16 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#2] 17 Mar 2007
From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#16]
16 Mar 2007
To: lindalee [#15] 16 Mar 2007
2500 freq sounds way too high. Try 500.
It's also possible that the wood you got has knots or voids which are making the cuts uneven.
From: lindalee [#17]
16 Mar 2007
To: Buzz [#4] 16 Mar 2007
Tom,
I've set the speed as low as 5, power to 100, increased the freq upto 2500, it cuts thru but way too much burn. I set the red to 50 speed & 10 power to gett good resolution without burning pieces off.
I've done lots of the baby announcements, but I've never had this much trouble.
I'm starting to think it may not be all operator trouble, I'm going to give Epilog a call tomorrow.
Thanks for the help.
From: lindalee [#18]
16 Mar 2007
To: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#16] 16 Mar 2007
Dave,
I've tried the settings starting at 300 & increased by 100 until it cut thru, long process, since I'm not very good at this trial & error thing.
From: Goodvol (JIMGOOD) [#19]
16 Mar 2007
To: lindalee [#18] 16 Mar 2007
Linda,
I cut the red lines using 100 speed at 30 power. It seems to work good. The cuts are very sharp and I get a slightly thicker line by cutting slightly out of focus. What works for me is to manually focus and then drop the table 5 to 10 steps of the focus button. Ten steps works good for me except I wouldn't go that far with really fine text. Do some trial and error.
For the blue and black lines, I sure wouldn't slow down the speed too much. You'll really char the wood at 5-10% speed. I'd try somewhere between 20-25% speed.
I'd set the frequency to 500.
Red: 30 power; 100 speed, 500 freq
Black and Blue: 100 power; 25 speed, 500 freq
Give it a try and see if that helps. (Also, cut red "out of focus" and black and blue at proper focus if the red cuts don't have enough depth of field)
Jim
From: Goodvol (JIMGOOD) [#20]
16 Mar 2007
To: PenMan [#11] 19 Mar 2007
Hey Pen Man,
I appreciate the explanation of how the Object Manager Docker works. I still have a lot to learn but I'm a willing student! I'll explore the docker and see if I can get proficient at optimizing the cutting sequence.
I'm off to Disney World in the morning so it will have to wait until I get back. If you have to place all the cuts in the order you want them performed, that sounds like a long and tedious activity. Maybe it isn't as bad as it sounds! I'll take a look.
I appreciate the help!
Jim
From: Buzz [#21]
16 Mar 2007
To: lindalee [#17] 17 Mar 2007
Hi Linda,
I believe you are correct, this is not an operator problem.
Epilog will have you check your alignment and all your mirrors for cleaning. So go ahead and check those before calling.
Is your laser still under warranty? The settings Jim gave you using the exact same laser should have been close, anything else means your laser is not preforming as designed (nice way to put it:)
Let me know how it turns out.
From: lindalee [#22]
29 Mar 2007
To: ALL
It seems that my alignment was way off, I've now learned how to fix that. It's amazing that picking up a piece of wood & having all the pieces fall out could turn this into such a good day.
Thanks to all for your help, this is such a nice family!!!
Message 6336.23 was deleted
From: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#24]
31 Mar 2007
To: ALL
6336.23
Here's a "double tribute" that I just did for our police chief. He couldn't decide whether he wanted the Army National Guard tribute, or his new badge design (which I've done several times for him now).
So he asked to do both on one background.
I had to make a connection between two "real" backgrounds to make this look right, and I think it looks pretty good. The picture doesn't give much detail there, but the connection between the tributes is the same rope-like pattern as the circles.
It took about 20 minutes to cut this out, and 10 minutes to put it together. The badge graphic was paid for several jobs ago (Pete Bertrand did the vectorization for me).
By the way...."VOP" stands for Volunteers On Patrol. This is a new civilian arm of the police department.
EDITED: 31 Mar 2007 by BOBTNAILER
From: lindalee [#25]
31 Mar 2007
To: ALL
I have one more note to add to the "fix", besides being out of focus, when I went to a new batch of wood it cut like butter, the edges are a
light brown & all pieces cut beautifully. So I think the wood I was using
was also part of the problem.
I've been babysitting a trophy shop on my days off for the past few weeks & have been trying to get some graduation plaques done & on display ASAP. The shop also has a lot of model trains so I did some train plaques. It's amazing how much you can get done when everything works!!
From: Buzz [#26]
2 Apr 2007
To: lindalee [#25] 2 Apr 2007
Hi Linda,
Glad to hear everything is working great! Nothing more frustrating than a slow burn :P
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