Full Version: WHAT FUN!
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#20]
19 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#17] 19 Mar 2007
Start screaming, Chuck!
Oh wait, that was a different dream.... :B
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#21]
19 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#19] 19 Mar 2007
Jim,
A hard learned lesson. Make sure the key line is completely away from the substrate.
I use key lines to align my graphics for coffee cups. Then I usually trim the paper in a paper cutter. It "looked" to ME that I had actually cut the line off. I could not see them at all, BUT when I pressed the mugs, sure enough there was an errant line...and the mug was wasted...
Just something else for you to dream about ;-) ( insert "just what ARE you dreaming about" laugh here.
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#22]
19 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#21] 19 Mar 2007
Chuck...
Sounds like I really have to be careful when setting up the keyline. Do you guys bother to tape the material to the transfer or am I pretty safe with the swinger?
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#23]
19 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#22] 19 Mar 2007
Jim,
I cannot speak for anyothers, but I always tape my material. Even with a swing away press material can shift......
By the way, did you talk to Matt?
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#24]
19 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#22] 19 Mar 2007
Jim,
You definitely want to tape the substrate to the transfer.
In the case of the transfer for the EE badges, I just use enough tape to create a "tab" along one side (the length) of the plate. No need to plaster it down; you're simply trying to keep the two pieces from shifting, while closing and opening the press.
For larger plates, I use a couple of tabs of tape along all four sides of the plate.
EDITED: 19 Mar 2007 by DGL
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#25]
19 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#23] 19 Mar 2007
No, didn't have a free minute today, Chuck. Hopefully I can break away for a quick call tomorrow.
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#26]
20 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#24] 21 Mar 2007
OK, so less is more in this case...good news because the tape's not cheap! :S
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#27]
21 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#26] 21 Mar 2007
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#28]
21 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#26] 21 Mar 2007
Transfer tape goes a long way, as long as you don't use overkill.
If you charge enough for your work, compared to ink pricing, it's not much of a consideration.
From: Mick [#29]
21 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#28] 21 Mar 2007
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#30]
21 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#27] 21 Mar 2007
Harvey...
It seems like most everything we have for samples requires a temp of about 400*. Are there sublimation products that require a much lower temperature?
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#31]
21 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#28] 21 Mar 2007
I guess I'm sounding a bit cheap with the tape....and after seeing Mick's post, it really isn't that bad.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#32]
21 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#31] 21 Mar 2007
You're not sounding cheap. I prefer to say cost-efficient. :-)
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#33]
21 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#30] 21 Mar 2007
Jim,
Obviously I am not Harvey, although I have been thinking of growing a pony tail... ( insert laugh here)....
As far as *I* know all sublimatable items need 400 degrees but varying amounts of pressure.
With OEM, you do not use sublimatable items, but off the shef items......and most of those are pressed at a lower temperature, because the transfer process is different....
I hope I answered you question.......
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#34]
21 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#31] 21 Mar 2007
Jim,
The tape REALLY goes along way. I am still working off the roll I got a year ago. It does not take much to hold a transfer in place....
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#35]
21 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#34] 21 Mar 2007
Thanks for answering the question before I had a chance to get back on-line.
To All: I do virtually no sublimation anymore. I do all OEM Laser Toner Transfer. A good $300 color laser printer, a special transfer paper and a heat press, and you can do so much more. (Especially acrylic!)
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#36]
21 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#35] 21 Mar 2007
Harvey,
I have dug out my transfer paper from Mick and was getting ready to print some for some tiles I am working on.....but I found it "odd" that AFTER I print the tile, I need to "bake" it at 400 degrees for an additional 15 minutes......I need to talk to Mick about that....but I am going to try a couple of things that Carl was talking about.
From: Doug (JDOUG5170) [#37]
21 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#36] 21 Mar 2007
Chuck, unless you have to have a glossy image, use bisque tile and you can eliminate the post bake.
I don't offer anything but and have had no problem selling the satin finish I get from bisque tile.
I realize it means shipping expense, but, Mick offers are really nice, high quality bisque tile from England...but I have used some from a local pottery supply house.
Doug
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#38]
21 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#36] 21 Mar 2007
In addition to a slight bit of additional grab, the post bake makes the color shiny.
I do not post bake my stuff, but then I do not do glass or ceramics either.
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#39]
21 Mar 2007
To: Doug (JDOUG5170) [#37] 21 Mar 2007
Doug,
I'm feeling kind of dumb here. :-$ What is a bisque tile?
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