Full Version: WHAT FUN!

From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#41]
 21 Mar 2007
To: Doug (JDOUG5170) [#40] 21 Mar 2007

quote:
It is this glaze that oem toner has trouble adhering to under the relative low temps that we press with, therefore the extended, higher temp, post cook.


Doug,

Thank you for the education. I got it.

Now, here is a question. Rather than post bake the tile, ( if I cannot find bisque tile), what if I simply pressed it hotter and longer? Would that work?

Thanks

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#42]
 21 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#41] 21 Mar 2007

quote:
Rather than post bake the tile, ( if I cannot find bisque tile), what if I simply pressed it hotter and longer? Would that work?


Chuck,

I don't know the answer to that question, regarding OEM laser toner, but with dye sub, (375-400 degrees) that's a recipe for a blurry image.

From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#43]
 21 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#42] 21 Mar 2007

quote:
but with dye sub, (375-400 degrees) that's a recipe for a blurry image.


David,

Currently I am pressing 6 inch tiles at 400 for 5:30..... it seems to be working really well..

From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#44]
 21 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#43] 21 Mar 2007

OEM Transfer or dye-sub?

From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#45]
 21 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#44] 21 Mar 2007

dye-sub

From: Doug (JDOUG5170) [#46]
 21 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#43] 21 Mar 2007

Chuck, with dye sub there is a definite ultimate time and temp to run before the image gets blurry.

I have found the oem laser is more forgiving. I have done less time and I have done more with no ill effects.

Now, I'm guessing here, so take it as such. I believe that the reason for the post bake is to set the "film" that gets transfered with the toner. The glossy finish on fully glazed tiles does not have the "teeth" that a bisque tile has so it takes a little more heat and time.

That said, I also find that a satin glaze is a little more forgiving, but still requires the post bake.

When I have done glazed tile and therefore, a post bake, I just use my toaster oven. I've always felt that if I had a qty to do, such as a large mural, I would just load up my kiln and let it run through the process...I could put 100 tiles in my kiln with little effort.

My first step would to be locate any pottery supply houses that might be on the islands if there are any and see if they offer bisque tile. Anything to save the shipping. Of course, if your local supply uses Dahl bisque tile as my local one does, you still pay the shipping, just not as visible to you. There is of course a savings as they are most likely bringing them in by the pallet.

Doug

From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#47]
 21 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#32] 21 Mar 2007

quote:
You're not sounding cheap. I prefer to say cost-efficient.

Frugal. :B

EDITED: 21 Mar 2007 by GREAT_ATLANTIC

From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#48]
 21 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#33] 21 Mar 2007

quote:
As far as *I* know all sublimatable items need 400 degrees but varying amounts of pressure.

With OEM, you do not use sublimatable items, but off the shef items......and most of those are pressed at a lower temperature, because the transfer process is different....

Ah...Ok. The OEM process seems pretty appealing too.

EDITED: 21 Mar 2007 by GREAT_ATLANTIC

From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#49]
 21 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#35] 21 Mar 2007

Harvey...

Is there a quality difference in the OEM process vs. dye sub?

From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#50]
 21 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#49] 21 Mar 2007

quote:
Is there a quality difference in the OEM process vs. dye sub?


I dont know what Harvey will say, but I think there is....OEM sits on the surface and you can actually "see" and "feel" the transfer.....and as you have probably seen with sublimation already, it is smooth and become part of the surface......which I think makes for a nice product.......

Just my two cents. Want change?

From: Bill (ALBILLBERT2000) [#51]
 21 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#16] 21 Mar 2007

David.. I never thanked you for the nice EE badge.. great job.. Thank you... ... Has Harvey/Dee put the photos up from Atlantic Rain City..

again Thanks..

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#52]
 21 Mar 2007
To: Bill (ALBILLBERT2000) [#51] 21 Mar 2007

Bill,

The pleasure was mine and it was nice to meet you (in a way) through the pictures Dee posted here:

http://engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=6179.93

From: Bill (ALBILLBERT2000) [#53]
 21 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#52] 21 Mar 2007

lol.. thanks.. missed them.. great camera Dee... but what the hell happend to my eyes... lol.. must of had the no eye reduction on to much.. lol..

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#54]
 21 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#49] 21 Mar 2007

You can get any color that a laser color printer can print. Mine goes to 2880 DPI. (Yeah, sure.)

Negatives are that some colors do not have the 'pop' that sub can give. Also Chuck is right the color is on the surface so is more vulnerable to damage. It cannot be used for keychains, but can be used for most other things.

From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#55]
 23 Mar 2007
To: Bill (ALBILLBERT2000) [#53] 23 Mar 2007

Bill,

After a day of looking at all of the product, then talking about new technologies, followed by talking shop with all the EE folks, anyone's eyes would turn red. :P It's caused by brain swell.

EDITED: 23 Mar 2007 by DATAKES

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