Full Version: OEM Laser - License Plate
From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#13]
24 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#12] 25 Mar 2007
Same for the soft goods.
After you press soft goods, it may feel like something was transferred to areas not cover with toner, but I don't think that's the case. In fact, on t-shirts, with the fabric weave, you actually leave toner, where there are spaces between the fabric fibers, on the transfer. Or, at least I do!
Mouse pads pretty much get all of the toner.
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#14]
25 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#1] 25 Mar 2007
Carl,
Nice work.
I tried (finally) using the oem and the versa trans......after I called Mick and had him walk me through my mistakes with the printer......
Sadly, the results I got pressing on the the JDS alder plaque were less than promising......but I have not given up.......just need to experiment some more ...I just hate wasting product on experiments....
Back to your license plate....where did you get the image? Is it yours? If it is may I have a copy of it?
Thanks
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#15]
25 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#14] 25 Mar 2007
If you start to peel a corner and it is not all sticking, stop peeling. Put it back in the press and try either a little more time or pressure. it will normally heal the broken spots when you achieve the proper time/temp/pressure.
On acrylic you want to allow it to get to room temperature before repressing, due to the large expansion of the acrylic with temperature. Back to room temp and usually even photographs will heal perfectly.
Edit: You can salvage most items using warm lighter fluid or cold lacquer thinner to remove the toner in order to reuse the product. Lacquer thinner is an instant solvent.
EDITED: 25 Mar 2007 by HARVEY-ONLY
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#16]
25 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#15] 25 Mar 2007
Thanks Harvey. If the plaque is still in the garbage, I'll dig it out and try that...otherwise, I 'll keep it in mind for the next one.
Thanks
From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#17]
25 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#14] 25 Mar 2007
Don't forget to use both sides!!!! I hope I'm NOT presenting CLTT (color laser toner transfer) as a simple and fool-proof process. If you want a confidence booster, though, do a few mouse pads!
I've spent many years in engineering R&D environments. Failures occur more often than successes. And remember this:
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The most exciting phrase to hear in science, the one that heralds the most discoveries, is not "eureka" (I found it!) but "that's funny..."
--Isaac Asimov
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I got the Alder plaque right the first time and that's the only alder plaque I've done. Send me a description of your results and your process and I'll see if I can see something. Don't be afraid to press for long times 3 or 4 minutes. Most importantly, you want success. Then you can work on cycle time.
CorelDraw! Photos. Thanks to Dave Miller for pointing me in that direction. Disk 2, I think, of V12. They're probably the same or similar in X3 (I haven't looked, yet, since I JUST got X3!!!). I don't think it was in Landscapes, maybe Nature or Natural? There are a whole bunch of photos in there that will work for license plates. It takes a while to go through the photos. At least it does on my slow computer. If you need it in a hurry, I can send it to you on Monday. If you need it today, I can remotely log into my work computer and get it for you. Let me know.
EDITED: 25 Mar 2007 by CSEWELL
From: Doug (JDOUG5170) [#18]
25 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#16] 25 Mar 2007
Be careful in cleaning off the toner on a wood plaque with lacquer thinner, there is a good chance that it was finished with lacquer which will also come off with the thinner.
Doug
From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#19]
25 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#14] 25 Mar 2007
CorelDraw X3, Disk #3, Photos>Water>739047.jp2
And make sure you take a look at the Sunsets folder on that same disk.
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#20]
25 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#19] 25 Mar 2007