Full Version: Laser OEM on Oak finish plaque

From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#10]
 24 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#1] 24 Mar 2007

Carl, I ran across the image of this plaque on your website a couple of nights ago. We have just gotten our laser in and did the training yesterday, so I am a total newbie to some of this stuff. I was very impressed with your work and remarked on this very plaque. I showed it to my wife and she was dismayed and said..how did he do that? Well, I assumed it was a fill of some sort.
Am I to understand that this is actually printed from a laser printer using a special toner and paper? Please explain a little more please about this. Thanks


From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#11]
 24 Mar 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#10] 24 Mar 2007

quote:
I ran across the image of this plaque on your website


Are you referring to the plaque in this thread or a plaque on my website? The one in this thread doesn't appear on my website.... at least I don't think it does...... nope, I checked. It doesn't.

If not, which one on my website are you referring to?

From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#12]
 24 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#11] 24 Mar 2007

Carl:
The one at the far left bottom in this link http://www.guntersvillelaser.com/SpecialtyPlaques-Large.jpg

I just recalled from memory, but the question remains the same. This must be related to sublimation, right? I'm not in that business, so I am vaguely familiar. (by the way, I'm a native of Alabama, that's pretty country up where you are). I like your website too, nice work!


From: PenMan [#13]
 24 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#1] 24 Mar 2007

I really like it Carl. I have asked Mick to send me some samples but have not seen them yet. I'm planning to jump into OEM laser once I have a chance to actually hold some samples.

From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#14]
 24 Mar 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#12] 24 Mar 2007

The one on my website is laser engraved with the upper half being color filled. You laser engrave the text/graphic and then fill it with paint, usually acrylic paint. You can use a mask (cover the whole piece with a material) and then laser engrave through that. And you can flood-fill or even spray paint the laser area and then remove the mask.

The Stunt Engraver has an excellent tutorial on color filling here:

http://engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.14.

Memorize that one.

Spend some time in the "Tips and Tricks" folder on this forum and refer to it often. You'll glean a tremendous amount of experience at an unbelievable price (for a limited time only!).

The plaque in this thread was done using CLTT (color laser toner transfer). A color laser printer is used to print to a specialty paper. The image (ie laser toner) on the paper is then transferred to the substrate (plaque, t-shirt, mouse pad, whatever) using a heat press. Yes, it is similar to dye-sublimation. There's a link to DSSI in upper right corner of this forum (See Links of Interest and click on the arrow to display the links).

As you can tell, there's more to this business than pressing the start button on your laser.

Yes, Alabama is beautiful, especially in and around the Lake Guntersville area. My business is in downtown Guntersville, which is actually a peninsula in the middle of Lake Guntersville.

Best of LUCK!

EDITED: 24 Mar 2007 by DGL


From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#15]
 24 Mar 2007
To: PenMan [#13] 24 Mar 2007

quote:
I have asked Mick to send me some samples


Mick has treated me well in the customer service area. Definitely highly recommended.

From: PenMan [#16]
 24 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#15] 24 Mar 2007

I wasn't complaining, I just asked him to send them last week. I have heard nothing but good about Mick and plan to do business with him. They say a picture is worth a thousand words and I think an actual sample is worth a thousand pictures. Anxioualy awaiting samples.

From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#17]
 24 Mar 2007
To: PenMan [#16] 24 Mar 2007

No problem. If he doesn't get them to you in the next couple of days, let me know and I'll forward the samples he sent to me (hopefully I can find them). I can even make my own now.

I was the same way. As I stated in another post, I asked a lot from Mick and he delivered. I even offered to pay him for his materials, effort, and shipping but he refused.

From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#18]
 24 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#14] 24 Mar 2007

Carl:
Yes, their is a lot to learn. I am into CNC routed signs and have rotor engraver also, but this is not my main business. I sell and install millwork packages to GC's building apartments and condos. The signage we do is for those developments. The laser we purchased is a tie in to this.
I have looked at the sublimation materials in Johnson Plastics catalog for quite a while, but I didn't unsderstand the OEM term as related to this. Now I see. Thank you for the information. I didn't mean to appear ignorant.


From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#19]
 24 Mar 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#18] 25 Mar 2007

quote:
I didn't mean to appear ignorant.


No not at all! I sure hope my reply didn't sound like I thought you were. It's hard to reply without knowing a lot of detail about the person you are replying to. We were all where you are, with respect to processes in this industry, some of us, me included, a very SHORT time ago.

From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#20]
 25 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#1] 25 Mar 2007

Carl,

At what temp and time did you press that?

As I mentioned in another thread about OEM, I did not have good luck. What is the secret?

When I pressed my sample, a lot of the toner came off the wood, what stayed was mottled, and the finish on the wood actually bubbled in places ( I assume the temp was too high)......and it appeared as if what ever the coating is on the paper, came off and stayed on the wood.....

Thanks
Chuck


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#21]
 25 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#20] 25 Mar 2007

If it was not raw wood, the fact that the coating of the paper remained is a sign of too much time/temp/pressure. If the finish on the wood bubbled either the finish was never dried properly or again the time/temp/pressure was too much. I guess you can figure out which way my thinking is going.

On raw wood that can happen, but on my few trials it does not happen on finished wood.

EDIT: At home I have my settings, or check the thing I posted in the 'Tips & Tricks' folder.

http://engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=2366.1

Be sure you know what temperature your press is really running.

EDITED: 25 Mar 2007 by DGL


From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#22]
 25 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#21] 25 Mar 2007

quote:
I guess you can figure out which way my thinking is going.


Harvey,

DEE hasn't even figured that out...and IF the day comes that I do, I will be afraid. VERY afraid..... ( insert laugh here)

From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#23]
 25 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#19] 25 Mar 2007

Hahaha! Maybe I DID appear ignorant because I AM!! But I'm workin on it. :B

From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#24]
 25 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#20] 25 Mar 2007

quote:
At what temp and time did you press that?


Which plaque are you working on? Oak finish? Or solid Alder?

I agree with Harvey. If the backing is sticking to the plaque and pulling off the transfer sheet, you are: a) running too hot, or b) peeling hot or too warm.

My first attempt at the Alder was 375F for 45 seconds. Plaque on bottom, then transfer, then 1/8" silicon pad, then teflon sheet. Peel cold. Not warm.

The oak finish took about 4 tries to get the one in the image. Same setup as the Alder plaque, but 300F for 3 minutes. Again, that was the first one that worked, so there's probably some room for changes in the parameters. I also tried something different before peeling that will need further verification and possibly refinement. It may have no bearing on the success of the process.

One thing you might want to verify is that the silicone pad is HOT before you start the press. I lower the platen on the silicone pad (no pressure) for several minutes.

From: sprinter [#25]
 25 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#20] 25 Mar 2007

Chuck,

Reduce your temp by 25-75 degrees. I have found that if your print has a lot of dark color I reduce the temp 25-75 degrees from what Mick suggests and increase the time by 1 1/2 min to 2 min more. It seems that the darker colors (more toner) flows better at lower temps and you don't get the mottled effect.

EDITED: 25 Mar 2007 by SPRINTER


From: UncleSteve [#26]
 25 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#22] 25 Mar 2007

Chuck,

If you have an email address that can receive a 2.5 MB file, I will send you MPG of Harvey's bio as a child....

The names have been changed to protect the family!

This is an unauthorized bio and Harvey HAS seen it....

From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#27]
 25 Mar 2007
To: UncleSteve [#26] 25 Mar 2007

Send away Big boy. Send away

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#28]
 25 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#24] 25 Mar 2007

In general I like to add time and reduce the temperature.

Dye sub needs 400*, any change will result in color shift. Not so with CLTT. The color is fixed by the toner. The toner melts at about 160* so you do not need/want the surface temperature to get too high. Using the lower temperature and longer pressing time can help guarantee an even temperature across the product. It just feels 'righter' to me.

[See UncleSteve's expose' of me.]


From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#29]
 26 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#28] 27 Mar 2007

quote:
[See UncleSteve's expose' of me.]


Don't need to. I saw the video. You were a cute kid Harvey. What happened? ( insert poke in the ribs, good natured gregarious busting your chops you know I love ya laugh here).

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