Full Version: Laser OEM on Oak finish plaque
From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#14]
24 Mar 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#12] 24 Mar 2007
The one on my website is laser engraved with the upper half being color filled. You laser engrave the text/graphic and then fill it with paint, usually acrylic paint. You can use a mask (cover the whole piece with a material) and then laser engrave through that. And you can flood-fill or even spray paint the laser area and then remove the mask.
The Stunt Engraver has an excellent tutorial on color filling here:
http://engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.14.
Memorize that one.
Spend some time in the "Tips and Tricks" folder on this forum and refer to it often. You'll glean a tremendous amount of experience at an unbelievable price (for a limited time only!).
The plaque in this thread was done using CLTT (color laser toner transfer). A color laser printer is used to print to a specialty paper. The image (ie laser toner) on the paper is then transferred to the substrate (plaque, t-shirt, mouse pad, whatever) using a heat press. Yes, it is similar to dye-sublimation. There's a link to DSSI in upper right corner of this forum (See Links of Interest and click on the arrow to display the links).
As you can tell, there's more to this business than pressing the start button on your laser.
Yes, Alabama is beautiful, especially in and around the Lake Guntersville area. My business is in downtown Guntersville, which is actually a peninsula in the middle of Lake Guntersville.
Best of LUCK!
EDITED: 24 Mar 2007 by DGL
From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#15]
24 Mar 2007
To: PenMan [#13] 24 Mar 2007
Mick has treated me well in the customer service area. Definitely highly recommended.
From: PenMan [#16]
24 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#15] 24 Mar 2007
From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#17]
24 Mar 2007
To: PenMan [#16] 24 Mar 2007
I was the same way. As I stated in another post, I asked a lot from Mick and he delivered. I even offered to pay him for his materials, effort, and shipping but he refused.
From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#18]
24 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#14] 24 Mar 2007
Carl:
Yes, their is a lot to learn. I am into CNC routed signs and have rotor engraver also, but this is not my main business. I sell and install millwork packages to GC's building apartments and condos. The signage we do is for those developments. The laser we purchased is a tie in to this.
I have looked at the sublimation materials in Johnson Plastics catalog for quite a while, but I didn't unsderstand the OEM term as related to this. Now I see. Thank you for the information. I didn't mean to appear ignorant.
From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#19]
24 Mar 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#18] 25 Mar 2007
No not at all! I sure hope my reply didn't sound like I thought you were. It's hard to reply without knowing a lot of detail about the person you are replying to. We were all where you are, with respect to processes in this industry, some of us, me included, a very SHORT time ago.
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#20]
25 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#1] 25 Mar 2007
Carl,
At what temp and time did you press that?
As I mentioned in another thread about OEM, I did not have good luck. What is the secret?
When I pressed my sample, a lot of the toner came off the wood, what stayed was mottled, and the finish on the wood actually bubbled in places ( I assume the temp was too high)......and it appeared as if what ever the coating is on the paper, came off and stayed on the wood.....
Thanks
Chuck
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#21]
25 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#20] 25 Mar 2007
On raw wood that can happen, but on my few trials it does not happen on finished wood.
EDIT: At home I have my settings, or check the thing I posted in the 'Tips & Tricks' folder.
http://engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=2366.1
Be sure you know what temperature your press is really running.
EDITED: 25 Mar 2007 by DGL
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#22]
25 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#21] 25 Mar 2007
Harvey,
DEE hasn't even figured that out...and IF the day comes that I do, I will be afraid. VERY afraid..... ( insert laugh here)
From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#23]
25 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#19] 25 Mar 2007
From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#24]
25 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#20] 25 Mar 2007
Which plaque are you working on? Oak finish? Or solid Alder?
I agree with Harvey. If the backing is sticking to the plaque and pulling off the transfer sheet, you are: a) running too hot, or b) peeling hot or too warm.
My first attempt at the Alder was 375F for 45 seconds. Plaque on bottom, then transfer, then 1/8" silicon pad, then teflon sheet. Peel cold. Not warm.
The oak finish took about 4 tries to get the one in the image. Same setup as the Alder plaque, but 300F for 3 minutes. Again, that was the first one that worked, so there's probably some room for changes in the parameters. I also tried something different before peeling that will need further verification and possibly refinement. It may have no bearing on the success of the process.
One thing you might want to verify is that the silicone pad is HOT before you start the press. I lower the platen on the silicone pad (no pressure) for several minutes.
From: sprinter [#25]
25 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#20] 25 Mar 2007
Chuck,
Reduce your temp by 25-75 degrees. I have found that if your print has a lot of dark color I reduce the temp 25-75 degrees from what Mick suggests and increase the time by 1 1/2 min to 2 min more. It seems that the darker colors (more toner) flows better at lower temps and you don't get the mottled effect.
EDITED: 25 Mar 2007 by SPRINTER
From: UncleSteve [#26]
25 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#22] 25 Mar 2007
If you have an email address that can receive a 2.5 MB file, I will send you MPG of Harvey's bio as a child....
The names have been changed to protect the family!
This is an unauthorized bio and Harvey HAS seen it....
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#27]
25 Mar 2007
To: UncleSteve [#26] 25 Mar 2007
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#28]
25 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#24] 25 Mar 2007
In general I like to add time and reduce the temperature.
Dye sub needs 400*, any change will result in color shift. Not so with CLTT. The color is fixed by the toner. The toner melts at about 160* so you do not need/want the surface temperature to get too high. Using the lower temperature and longer pressing time can help guarantee an even temperature across the product. It just feels 'righter' to me.
[See UncleSteve's expose' of me.]
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#29]
26 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#28] 27 Mar 2007
Don't need to. I saw the video. You were a cute kid Harvey. What happened? ( insert poke in the ribs, good natured gregarious busting your chops you know I love ya laugh here).
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#30]
27 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#29] 27 Mar 2007
The same thing that changed me from a liberal to a moderate conservative.
I learned about life and grew up.
From: John (ICTJOHN) [#31]
27 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#30] 27 Mar 2007
You mean - you got married????? :O)
No, that wouldn't be it- or you would be even more liberal! 8-O
I guess if Dee hasn't been able to get you to see the light by now................. there's no hope! :O)
thinking to myself here........... lets see, what kind of a "laugh" would Chuck insert here??
:B
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#32]
27 Mar 2007
To: John (ICTJOHN) [#31] 27 Mar 2007
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