Full Version: Glass lasering

From: Jim (JIMHUSTON) [#8]
 27 Mar 2007
To: Goodvol (JIMGOOD) [#7] 27 Mar 2007

I do a LOT of jade glass engraving. With a ULS M 360 60 Watt unit I use:
80 Power
83 Speed
330 PPI
4 ID
Hope that helps. A lot depends on what type of glass you are engraving!
Jim


From: laserman (MIKEMAC) [#9]
 27 Mar 2007
To: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#1] 27 Mar 2007

Jim,

Because all glass is not created equal. What we do is to change the graphic from a solid black to 60-70 % Grey level. This really helps with what you are experiencing.


From: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#10]
 27 Mar 2007
To: ALL

Jim and Mike,

You mention 3 variables I haven't messed with:

lowering the PPI from 1000
lowering the ID from 6 (image density)
and decreasing the intensity of the black.

Looks like I have a lot try. Soooooo many combinations, and then add on the inconsistency of glass.........

Thanks!

JimK


From: logojohn [#11]
 27 Mar 2007
To: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#1] 27 Mar 2007

quote:
most glass is flaking which makes for a poor appearance


If you get flaking, many times you can still save the piece with a few minutes work.

Usually that means there was too much power so there likely will be a fairly deep etch underneath. I just use the corner of a razor blade or exacto kniffe and chip away. I am left with a smooth looking but frosted layer that was under the flaking.

Hints given so far are good and a couple more.
lighter gray, not solid black lettering or graphics
use photo mode in the laser driver
slow speed and high power which varies my machine
thin film of manual dishwashing liquid without paper overlay
air assist on

From: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#12]
 27 Mar 2007
To: logojohn [#11] 27 Mar 2007

lj,

Great stuff, I think this will help immensely.

Thanks!

Jim


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#13]
 30 Mar 2007
To: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#12] 30 Mar 2007

I find that the highest resolution and lpi give the best result. That said, I cannot do a picture without some flaking at some density of the image. Vary the power and the greyness of the flaking area changes.

I have also done text by blasting away and leaving a carved look with no fracturing flakes.

Glass varies spot to spot. I even had an egg cup with a line of water glass in it. (The potash never made it to that spot in the mix. Leave out the potash and it dissolves in water.)


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