Full Version: Laser Sublimation Toner Coverage
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#1]
8 Feb 2005
To: ALL
Hello All,
I am curious from those of you who use full-color laser sublimation, have you had success pressing direct to brushed aluminum plates, not through the protective tape, where the color covers about 90% of the plate?
I have not tried it yet, but I have a project that will require this. My experience shows that there are some RGB colors that give great opacity and others that produce unacceptable thin spots in the larger coverage areas. Is everyone else experiencing this same phenomenon?
I personally don't think it would make much difference what brand of toner you are using. I think the result would be the same with all of them.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2]
8 Feb 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#1] 8 Feb 2005
David,
I've seen where, (as you say), some colors offer greater opacity than others. Although I have 4-color laser sublimation capability (HP4500 w/Alpha toner) I've found that some circumstances require the more-continuous-tones, that ink jet sublimation offers.
Depending on the job, I'll use either ink jet or laser sublimation. Both have their pros and cons, while neither is a cure-all.
Give it your best shot with laser. If that proves unsuccessful, I can make some ink jet transfers for you.
David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri
DGL Engraving
Port Hueneme, CA
From: John (ICTJOHN) [#3]
9 Feb 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#1] 9 Feb 2005
If you are talking about streaking, I have the same problem, to me it looks like a condition casued by the drum. The reason I say that - is sometimes the image will print great and the next sheet out of the printer looks streaked. But when you do get a good print it does look great.
You mentioned "great opacity and others that produce unacceptable thin spots". I don't compare opacity and thin spots. All of the laser colors are somewhat transparent, but it is not because of being too thin of coverage. Black will be the most opaque of the laser images.
Am I way off on what you were wanting info on????
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#4]
9 Feb 2005
To: John (ICTJOHN) [#3] 9 Feb 2005
John,
When I used the word "thin", I meant that the color was darker and lighter in parts of one particular color.
This is one of those jobs that is on the fast track ((no rush charge :-( )), so I decided to choose colors, which there are thousands, that I knew would give me a good consistant coverage.
The plaques are coming out great. I have printed the 120 prints and have pressed the first and the last print with no variance. That is why I love this process so much more than inkjet, although it does have its limits.
What are you using to clean the residue off of the plate when pressing directly to the metal?
From: John (ICTJOHN) [#5]
9 Feb 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#4] 9 Feb 2005
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#6]
9 Feb 2005
To: John (ICTJOHN) [#5] 9 Feb 2005
Citrus cleaner seems to be mainly low odor paint thinner. My wife likes to use the citrus cleaner to remove label glue. The thinner is faster and far cheaper.
The label on the citrus cleaner reads made with petroleum distillates. Read between the lines.
Give that a shot on a damaged piece and let me know how it works for your projects.
From: John (ICTJOHN) [#7]
9 Feb 2005
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#6] 9 Feb 2005
Harvey,
I will try it -
I liked it's orange smell better than the heavy fumes from the other brand (XpresCleaner, I think) that the former owners used way back when. Thinner would be less expensive and available locally.
Thanks,