Full Version: Help With AccuArt2
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#1]
10 Mar 2005
To: ALL
Hi,
Well, I finally got my sandcarver connected and ready to go, BUT ( there is always one isn't there?) I am using Photobrasives AccuArt2 and Rapid mask.
I find it very difficult to determine which side is which. Is there an easy way? Or a way at all besides experimenting. Both sides look the same to me when I hold them up to the light.
HEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLPPP!!!!!!
Chuck
American Pacific Awards
From: sawdr73 [#2]
10 Mar 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#1] 10 Mar 2005
Chuck,
I haven't tried the Accuart 2 yet. The "old" stuff had a knotched/ clipped corner to help identify correct position for placing into printer paper tray. My Epson 980 feeds from the back, so I had to put the clipped corner to the bottom left. It was very difficult to tell the "dull side" from the "shiny side" just by looking, but knowing which way to turn it for my printer, I could see the very faint difference. It might be to your advantage to give them a call at Photobrasive just to get the "correct" answer. Hopefully, someone here can give you a better answer.
Mickey Parker
Vital Signs (and now Engraving!)
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#3]
10 Mar 2005
To: sawdr73 [#2] 10 Mar 2005
Thanks Mickey,
No clipped corners here. I'll probably have to call Photobrasive tomorrow, but in the meanwhile I thought I would check here.
Thanks
Chuck
American Pacific Awards.
P.S. When did you start engraving?
From: precisionlaser [#4]
10 Mar 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#3] 10 Mar 2005
Chuck,
You may have already read this, but in case not:
http://www.photobrasive.com/pbacr/accuproductUG04.pdf
I don't think there's any earthshattering information in there, other than the "identify the slightly duller side" advice, but it may be worth a read. I got my intro packet of RapidMask and AccuArt today as well, but don't have the cabinet yet so I have to wait til Monday. If you find a magic way to figure this out, let me know since I'll be probably having the same problem on Monday.
Who did you buy the blaster from, PhotoBrasive or Rayzist?
Mark
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#5]
10 Mar 2005
To: precisionlaser [#4] 11 Mar 2005
Mark,
I will look at that link. I bought the blaster from Photobrasive.
Chuck
From: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#6]
11 Mar 2005
To: precisionlaser [#4] 18 Mar 2005
Mark,
With AccuBlack wet your thumb and pointing finger; the side that is stickiest is the side to print on. Pretty sure that it is the same with AccuArt.
Hope this helps.
Chuck, already emailed you this
Dave
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#7]
17 Mar 2005
To: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#6] 18 Mar 2005
Dave,
Thanks, I tried your suggestion and it works as promised.
Once I found out which side was which, it was easy to tell on the next sheet. I can actuall "feel" the difference.
Thanks for your help, and support
From: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#8]
18 Mar 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#7] 18 Mar 2005
That's what we are all here for.
Dave
From: precisionlaser [#9]
18 Mar 2005
To: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#6] 19 Mar 2005
Thanks, Dave. In playing with the Accuart film, I did notice that one side is definitely "tackier" than the other side, even without wetting a finger. My next challenge was determining which side of Rapidmask was the slip sheet and which was the carrier, but that too was finally figured out that the slip sheet was ever so slightly duller looking than the carrier. My next challenge was figuring out how to apply the Rapidmask correctly. Now I'm using the "mist the adhesive side of the mask, apply to glass and squeegee" method and that seems to work very well. THere's definitely an art to applying the mask so that it goes on straight...or at least it seems that way to me!
I bought the large roll of LaserTape from Photobrasive and I'll use this whenever possible because it's so easy and cheaper per sq in than RapidMask..apply, zap and blast. Love it so far! I've had good results thus far with everything we bought....but haven't done that much with it yet, so time will tell.
Mark
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#10]
19 Mar 2005
To: precisionlaser [#9] 19 Mar 2005
HI Mark,
I had the same struggles as you in deciphering which side of the rapid mask and the accuart to use, but an email from UCONNDAVE and a call to photobrasive solved both problems.
How do you like the laser mask? It sounds like it has solved a lot of problems for you. I am currently trying to etch some wine glasses that the rapidmask simply will not lay flat on. It sounds like you have been successful with laser mask?
Thanks
From: precisionlaser [#11]
19 Mar 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#10] 19 Mar 2005
Well, like you, I haven't been doing this long, but yes, the laser tape has been easier to work with.
Time will tell on which mask becomes my preferred solution. Laser tape is easy, but potentially could take longer to prepare since you have to laser though it. Exposing RapidMask takes all of 2.5 minutes and it's easy to envision a scenario where lasering the mask takes much longer...on the other hand, no worries about alignment. We are planning to offer a product on a 4" x 5" piece of flat glass and in that case, I think the laser tape will be the preferred solution. It's also only a penny per square inch as opposed to over 6 cents per square inch for RapidMask.
One early observation in using laser tape is that when I created the artwork, I didn't think it really mattered what DPI I lasered the mask at since I would be blasting afterward, but it does. I lasered at 200 DPI and when I got done sand blasting, I could make out the little jaggies on the curves of the letters I was blasting. I was impressed at how well the laser tape held up under the blasting. I will try 300 DPI and perhaps higher, but I think 300 DPI may be the final setting. Perhaps others can chime in with how this worked for them.
Mark
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#12]
19 Mar 2005
To: precisionlaser [#11] 19 Mar 2005
Hi Mark,
Keeping in mind that I am just learning, here are my thoughts on laser etching the glass before blasting. Ultimately I believe it WOULD be faster. I say this because with the glass I am working on, I need to trim the rapidmask (RM) then apply it VERY SLOWLY to get it to lay flat, then mask the glass, then blast. This takes 5 or more minutes.
When I started on this project, I tried just laser etching the glass. Of course it is rough, but it only took one minute 16 seconds. (not including loading the glass. ) So I would guess that with a laser tape, I could wrap the glass ( 1 minute ) laser the glass (1 minute, since I'm going to blast) then etch, ( a minute and a half for the logo I'm using ). This in my inexperience seems to make sense.... but like I have told David Takes, I may not be making much if any money on this first job, but the EDUCATION?....... priceless...
From: precisionlaser [#13]
19 Mar 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#12] 19 Mar 2005
I need to say that I haven't done any glasses yet...just flat or semi-flat items. I would think that compound curves would be a real challenge and this is where the sand blasting "silver backs" need to chime in with their tips and tricks. At least I hope they will! :-))
Mark
From: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#14]
19 Mar 2005
To: precisionlaser [#9] 19 Mar 2005
The way I tell which side is the slip is to scrap the surface with your fingernail; if it digs in, its the slip side, if it just slides over the surface, its the carrier side. This assumes 2 things, first that you have fingernails and secondly that the carrier side is the last of the film that you peel off.
Never tried the wet method, we use the hinge method which is to tape down one side, check your allignment, fold the resist back, remove the slip sheet and squeegee starting on the taped side. A plus doing it this way is that once the resist is squeegeed down, when you remove the taped hinge usually the carrier sheet comes with it.
Hope this didn't confuse you too much.
Dave
From: precisionlaser [#15]
19 Mar 2005
To: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#14] 21 Mar 2005
No, it didn't confuse me...I actually tried this but the mask got stuck prematurely in the wrong place and I couldn't correct it, so good bye to about 30 sq in of RapidMask. I'm sure the hinge method works well, but I don't think I have the dexterity to use it yet. The nice thing about the other method is that if you get it in the wrong place you can pull it up and put it down again. Once you get it where you want it, you simply squeegee the water out, blot it dry and blast. At least that's what my "vast" experience with this has shown me so far. I'd bet that most experienced blasters apply the mask dry, but I'm not there yet...
Mark
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#16]
19 Mar 2005
To: precisionlaser [#15] 19 Mar 2005
Am I understanding that there is a "wet" method to applying rapid mask?
From: precisionlaser [#17]
19 Mar 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#16] 19 Mar 2005
Yes...basically:
1. Remove slip sheet.
2. Lightly mist exposed mask with water.
3. Apply to glass, move around as needed
4. Squeegee water out from under mask
5. Remove carrier and blast.
PhotoBrasive has a better description on this here:
http://www.photobrasive.com/pbacr/RMHDIIinstr.pdf
Read down to "Alternative Application Method".
Don't do as I did the first time I tried this and mist the glass...that doesn't work. Mist the exposed adhesive side of the mask after removing the slip sheet.
Mark
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#18]
19 Mar 2005
To: precisionlaser [#17] 19 Mar 2005
Thank you Mark. I'll try it..
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#19]
21 Mar 2005
To: precisionlaser [#15] 21 Mar 2005
You might try the vinyl application style.
Make your hinge down the center. Peel from one end and squeegee. Remove the tape and peel off the rest of the basking and then squeegee from the center.
This allows a good placement from the center with 1/2 the possible alignment error.
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#20]
21 Mar 2005
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#19] 21 Mar 2005
Harvey, are saying to squegee the mask AFTER the carrier sheet has been removed? I have tried this and it tends to tear the mask.....any ideas?
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