Zona,

I want to qualify my comments by saying I am not a shill for Photobrasive. In fact, I have had a few customer service issues that were finally rectified when they were the master distributor for Sperrin Crystal.

I have a roll of UltraPro 5-mil I used a portion of on a deep-etch marble project a couple of weeks ago. I don't use this thickness very often because the 3-mil is pretty durable. I purchased this 5-mil when I bought my etching equipment three and a half years ago. That is some pretty good shelf life.

Where did you find the NuArc exposure unit? Did you buy it new or used?

The screenprinting industry also uses it I believe.

Dave

We used it at Cook Labs for exposing pad printing plates. It is basically a great vacuum unit, lay down the piece to be exposed, the layout, close the glass and turn the vacuum on. The light was one of the early blue street lights. Great exposure from a small source area for really sharp lines.

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

Harvey's Sub Page When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

Which Rapid Mask material are you using? There are 2 different versions. I purchased the sample kit. We are working on a wedding vase. Called for tech support and they were helpful at Photobrasive.

The issue I was having was that it says to lightly mist the surface of the glass. We did that and then it kept moving around on us. We corrected it by wetting the glass surface with wet paper towel.

Wetting the surface allowed us to move the image around.

Back when this discussion started, I was testing RapidMask 3, which I later found out was more of a beta test. They (PhotoBrasive) decided that it would get to confussing having 2 and 3 so changed 3 (after some improvements) to HD (High Detail) and HT (High Tack) both are dry processing film. My 3 would have been the HD now. I have to use a spray on adhesive with some applications. (Yes, PB is doing some testing with a graphic I've sent them.) The main problem seems to be when I have a very fine detail inside a large area that is blasted, the detailed area is not staying stuck, which is why I'm adding adhesive. Moving mask around is not something I do very often so I can't give advise about that. Usually I have the piece marked so well (center, edge, etc) that I usually get it right the first time. (thank goodness)

Zona
Zona's Engraved Creations

David,

About Rapid Mask, I cannot compare it to any other masking material because I have never used anything else, but in my VERY LIMITED experience, the adhesion is excellent ( it is rubbed off, and takes a small amount of effort ), and it seems to hold up well to agressive carving, but I was working on a small section and did blow out some of the letters.
It seems that "distance" from the blast nozzle to the substrate seem to be key.
Anyway, listen to ME try and tell YOU about sandcarving....

They're coming to take me away ha ha ho ho he he, they're coming to take me away

( insert laugh here)

Chuck,

You really have to check for bubbles around the small exposed areas and pop them when they appear in the exposed areas(area that is to be blasted off). The bubbles show up better when you view the piece at an angle.

Dave

Dave,

Thanks for the tip. I think I am making progress.

What I have done at this point is cut the rapid mask into approximately 3" squares. I then remove both of the carrier sheets leaving only the mask. This allows me to lay the mask flatter with few air bubble.
Next I laser etch the logo, I then blasted it. The longest part of the process was removing the carrier sheets.
The attached photo is the result. It still needs some refining, but I'm getting there I think.
The question I have now is, is the laser resist, basically the rapid mask with out the carrier sheets?

Thanks

Hi, Chuck...

Laser Tape is not the same thing as RapidMask without the slip sheet.

Laser Tape (and Rayzist's LaserMask) is a non-PVC film (a form of non-PVC vinyl?) which is not UV-sensitive. RapidMask is a different product chemically (I think polymer based, but am not sure) and of course is UV-sensitive.

With a 6:1 price ratio, it's safe to say that they are two completely different products...

Mark

Chuck,

Mark basically covered it all. You're more pacient than I peeling both sheets off, wow.

Mark,
Is it more flexible and pliable than rapid mask?

I'd need to get back to the office to compare, and of course, it depends on which RapidMask you're thinking about (HT vs. HD). My recollection is that the HT (4 mil) is equivalent in feel to the LaserTape, which isn't surprising, given that they're the same thickness. I also think that the carrier sheets are responsible for much of the feel, as mentioned in an another thread. Now, the RapidMask HD seems very pliable to me (2 mil) and I'd think that this is the stuff to use on compound curves.

I wonder if you warmed the mask with a blow dryer once it's applied and after the carrier is removed, if that would cause it to conform to the curves better. Just a thought.

Mark

A blow drier huh? That is not a bad idea. I'll give it a try.

Chuck,

I spoke with Photobrasive this week and they have updated their recommended exposure settings for RapidMask on the NuArc unit I have. As suspected, my problem was a result of inadequate exposure. I think I have the same problem with my marketing programs sometimes. 8^)

David,
I totally understand what you mean. Today is probably NOT a day to talk about it.
Have a great weekend. We are off to dinner at the Outback.......

Dave,

I spoke with Photobrasive about RapidMask and they recently adjusted their recommended settings from 60 integrator units to 90 for the exposure unit I use. Do you use the same exposure time for RapidMask HT and HD?

Which product are you finding that you use more often -- HD or HT?

What printer and inks are you using to print your negative image on the AccuBlack film?

I recall from an earlier conversation that there was a substrate that the RapidMask would leave an actual discoloration mark where it was applied. Am I correct in recalling that that substrate was marble?