Laser OEM on Oak finish plaque - Engraving Etc. Forum

From:	Carl (CSEWELL)	25 Mar 2007
To:	LaZerDude (C_BURKE)	24 of 32

6406.24 In reply to 6406.20
quote: At what temp and time did you press that? Which plaque are you working on? Oak finish? Or solid Alder? I agree with Harvey. If the backing is sticking to the plaque and pulling off the transfer sheet, you are: a) running too hot, or b) peeling hot or too warm. My first attempt at the Alder was 375F for 45 seconds. Plaque on bottom, then transfer, then 1/8" silicon pad, then teflon sheet. Peel cold. Not warm. The oak finish took about 4 tries to get the one in the image. Same setup as the Alder plaque, but 300F for 3 minutes. Again, that was the first one that worked, so there's probably some room for changes in the parameters. I also tried something different before peeling that will need further verification and possibly refinement. It may have no bearing on the success of the process. One thing you might want to verify is that the silicone pad is HOT before you start the press. I lower the platen on the silicone pad (no pressure) for several minutes. Carl Guntersville Laser Engraving Guntersville, AL http://www.GuntersvilleLaser.com

From:	sprinter	25 Mar 2007
To:	LaZerDude (C_BURKE)	25 of 32

6406.25 In reply to 6406.20

Chuck,

Reduce your temp by 25-75 degrees. I have found that if your print has a lot of dark color I reduce the temp 25-75 degrees from what Mick suggests and increase the time by 1 1/2 min to 2 min more. It seems that the darker colors (more toner) flows better at lower temps and you don't get the mottled effect.

EDITED: 25 Mar 2007 by SPRINTER

From:	UncleSteve	25 Mar 2007
To:	LaZerDude (C_BURKE)	26 of 32

6406.26 In reply to 6406.22
Chuck, If you have an email address that can receive a 2.5 MB file, I will send you MPG of Harvey's bio as a child.... The names have been changed to protect the family! This is an unauthorized bio and Harvey HAS seen it.... "Good friends can be a real annoyance."

From:	Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)	25 Mar 2007
To:	Carl (CSEWELL)	28 of 32

6406.28 In reply to 6406.24

In general I like to add time and reduce the temperature.

Dye sub needs 400*, any change will result in color shift. Not so with CLTT. The color is fixed by the toner. The toner melts at about 160* so you do not need/want the surface temperature to get too high. Using the lower temperature and longer pressing time can help guarantee an even temperature across the product. It just feels 'righter' to me.

[See UncleSteve's expose' of me.]

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

From:	LaZerDude (C_BURKE)	26 Mar 2007
To:	Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)	29 of 32

6406.29 In reply to 6406.28
quote: [See UncleSteve's expose' of me.] Don't need to. I saw the video. You were a cute kid Harvey. What happened? ( insert poke in the ribs, good natured gregarious busting your chops you know I love ya laugh here).

From:	Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)	27 Mar 2007
To:	LaZerDude (C_BURKE)	30 of 32

6406.30 In reply to 6406.29
quote: You were a cute kid Harvey. What happened? The same thing that changed me from a liberal to a moderate conservative. I learned about life and grew up. Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem) When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

From:	John (ICTJOHN)	27 Mar 2007
To:	Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)	31 of 32

6406.31 In reply to 6406.30
quote: The same thing that changed me from a liberal to a moderate conservative. You mean - you got married????? :O) No, that wouldn't be it- or you would be even more liberal! 8-O I guess if Dee hasn't been able to get you to see the light by now................. there's no hope! :O) thinking to myself here........... lets see, what kind of a "laugh" would Chuck insert here?? :B John http://www.creative-awards.com creativeawards@msn.com

From:	Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)	27 Mar 2007
To:	John (ICTJOHN)	32 of 32

6406.32 In reply to 6406.31
:B Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem) When you finally understand it completely... it changes.