Glass lasering - Engraving Etc. Forum

From:	logojohn	27 Mar 2007
To:	JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS)	11 of 13

6437.11 In reply to 6437.1
quote: most glass is flaking which makes for a poor appearance If you get flaking, many times you can still save the piece with a few minutes work. Usually that means there was too much power so there likely will be a fairly deep etch underneath. I just use the corner of a razor blade or exacto kniffe and chip away. I am left with a smooth looking but frosted layer that was under the flaking. Hints given so far are good and a couple more. lighter gray, not solid black lettering or graphics use photo mode in the laser driver slow speed and high power which varies my machine thin film of manual dishwashing liquid without paper overlay air assist on lj

From:	JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS)	27 Mar 2007
To:	logojohn	12 of 13

6437.12 In reply to 6437.11

lj,

Great stuff, I think this will help immensely.

Thanks!

Jim

Jim Kennedy, Sr.
Just the 4 of Us Engraving & Signs
York, Maine

From:	Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)	30 Mar 2007
To:	JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS)	13 of 13

6437.13 In reply to 6437.12

I find that the highest resolution and lpi give the best result. That said, I cannot do a picture without some flaking at some density of the image. Vary the power and the greyness of the flaking area changes.

I have also done text by blasting away and leaving a carved look with no fracturing flakes.

Glass varies spot to spot. I even had an egg cup with a line of water glass in it. (The potash never made it to that spot in the mix. Leave out the potash and it dissolves in water.)

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

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