It may be the one I turned them on to a few years ago. If it takes longer and first browns then blacks it probably is.

If it is, the absolute beauty of this one is that it will oxidize wide lines without flaking and does not rub off when rewiping more over the already done areas for a stronger black. It is formulated to work on many metals so it is not poisoned by the metals in the gold brass. It also works very well on silver.

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

Harvey's Sub Page When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

I spoke to someone who saw it demonstrated in Las Vegas and thought it was wonderful. it is a two step process. When she went to use it at home she couldn't't get it to work. However, it is my belief she contaminated the solution. I don't remember the conversation completely but she said that she dipped the same applicator in both bottles and then went back and forth from bottle to bottle using the same applicator. While we have never used their solution I can say that with the solution we use we never put the applicator (a Q-tip) back in the bottle.

We have used Quality One for repairs and have always found them to be reputable. I would not hesitate to try one of their products.

Dee

What oxidation fluid do you use Harvey?
I have been using Electrochemicals #324 for brass.
It use to work better than it does now or the brass content
has changed. The small letters work ok, but the larger letters
with wipe out of the letters.

TJ

If Q-1 is a two step process it is *not* what I use.

I was planning on selling mine but the bottles cost so much more than the solution it was ludicrous. The minimum order is for one gallon. It has lasted me for 8 years now and I have jut under one quart left. It keeps well.

As with any other blackening solution, do not re-dip the q-tip or it will affect the solution. I use a Clairol hair dye applicator bottle to wet the Q-tip. You can then add another drop or two to the same Q-tip safely.

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

Harvey's Sub Page When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

The Oxidizer I sell is a one step process as always done. BUT if you have an area that is big to darken or the material is tough to keep black like aluminum. Then u use a 2 step process. First a cleaner that preps the surface. Wipe off, then oxidize as normal. Same solution works on Brass or Aluminum. 100% guarantee. Sold hundreds and have not heard a complaint. All the solutions are 100% concentrated, no cutting is done to make a sample at the show go better. But some materials will darken better than others. I just buy the std brass from Creative Metal. Leaded is too rich for my blood.
If you mix the solutions or the brushes in the 2 steps it will not work. One is designed to remove and the other darken. Not sxure what the results would be.

I can answer any questions you may have via email if u would like add'l info. fred@q1engravers.com

Fred