Name badges are the most difficult due to the melting point of most flex. Some types do not work at all, such as the Rowmark Textures. You need a smooth surface, (the brushed finish badges DO have a smooth surface). The ones that have the highest temperature rating work best. I have some cheap leftover scrap from a run of screened badges that works well. Not sure who made them but they yellow after a few years even when kept in the dark with nothing done to them.
It depends on the problem that you are having. Melt or sticking on the surface is either too much heat or dwell time. Incomplete transfers are the reverse.
There are a whole lot of pads available, each with different thermal properties. The all should be silicon rubber but compounded differently. Most are foam, some are solid. There is the brick red, (less thermal transfer), green, grey, and black. Each comes in different thicknesses. If you have a pad, use it and get familiar with the setting adjustments for that pad.
I have 1/8 brick red foam and 1/16 green, just to try a different type. They both work pretty much except for the time. The 1/16 green will take 40 seconds on an item, where the brick red 1/8 will take between 60 and 120 seconds for the same item.
Like sublimation it is an art, unlike sublimation, once you get the settings it is truly repeatable. The press temp is even more important here. 30* out of 280* is a much larger percentage than 30* out of 400*, therefore more critical.
Descriptions for papers for other materials are listed on the two websites in the article. The settings I gave are for the hard goods paper only, on hard goods.
Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)
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