Yesterday, I received a request to etch a corporate logo on some crystal vases. "No problem," I thought.

The logo included a gradient, made to mimick searchlights, pointing toward the sky. Dark, at the bottom of the "V" shaped image and fading toward the top.

Is it possible to create this effect, "consistently," from piece to piece?

I have a very talented person, who will do the etching and I'm sure he'll know the answer, but I won't be able to contact him for a few hours.

Just thought I'd run the question past this knowledgable group. :-) 

Thanks,

David,
I don't do much gradient work but what I have done does not seem to present a problem to me. I would guess it would depend on how consistant your printer is when printing the artwork. My Epson 980 seems to be very consistant, as does my Epson 3000. Also, the material that you print on may have some effect on the outcome of the print for exposure. I went to Photobrasive in Deluth, Minn. last year and while there tried out their Rapidmask HD II film and was very pleased with the outcome. I don't know what resist your friend uses but I'm sure he will be able to reproduce the work to your satisfaction. If I have learned anything frjom this forum, it is how exacting your work is and I feel confident that anyone you have chosen to represent you will be just a good at what they do as you are at yours. I expect you will not be disappointed. Relax and collect your fee with confidence! B-) 
Mickey

hmmmmm

could you laser that portion and dither, then sandblast the rest? Might have to laser whole thing, cover the spotlight with a mask, then blast the rest of the image.

not sure if the shape/size of the vase would allow that.

I'm trying my best to be Stunt-y ;-) 

Shaddy

Mickey,

My "Stunt Etcher" says it can be done, but not with the film he uses. Fortunately, the customer isn't shooting for perfection - excellence will be good enough. :-) 

As usual, this is a corporate account and getting the job done in a hurry, will superceed their desire to see a carbon-copy-match of the logo.

Thanks for the input Mickey. I appreciate it.

David,
Maybe your friend needs to consider raising the bar for his competition. (devil)  I failed to mention that the Rapidmask HD II was designed for just this kind of job. It really holds the little dots very well when blasting and needs no washout time. I'm sure your friend has chosen a resist that serves him well. My "south Texas" connection refuses to use anything but Raysist. I find Raysist to be very effective also. I use the HD II because I haven't got a place in my shop for washing out the developed resist.

I'm sure your friend will do an excellant job or you would not have chosen him. Post a picture if you can. We would love to see it

Mickey

David,

This look can be accomplished very nicely with light progressive shading, but the consistency from piece to piece will only be as good as the person behind the blasting nozzle. This is the same process that would be required to etch the Engraving Etc. logo into glass. You see the gradient section of the logo under the "V"?

David (TakesMo),
I think you are right on with the shading effect, especially for simulating the light. That would give the graphic a more "realistic" effect. However, with the time frame and quantity, the gradient would be more cost effective, for me. I love doing the shading. It just seems to give "life" to a lot of graphics that otherwise would just "be there".

I hope David will be able to post a pic for us, and maybe we'll be pleasantly surprised to see shading. David's level of work seems to meet the old addage,"Water seeks it's own level". That said, I expect his sandblast friend is top notch! :D 

Mickey

David,

:-$ I'll have to refer you to Photobrasive on that very valid question. I originally purchased a "sample" pack of the original RapidMask, and had it on my shelf for over a year after my first sample run. After that year I could not tell of any deterioration. I think that if it is kept in dark cool place the life is substantial. Please do not accept this as gospel. Photobrasive would be able to give you a lot better answer as they probably have that in their spec sheets. The Rapidmask HD II was developed for the demanding photo resist people. They wanted that fine dot pitch, etc. and it needed to stay on the glass when blasting.

Sorry for not being more technical, but us old red neck Arkansas boys let the techno's worry about the specs. >.<  We just want to know if it works. If it does, fine. If it doesn't, then gimme something else.

Let us know how you project turns out, and again, we would love to see some pics. I appreciate seeing good work regaurdless of who does it.

Good luck
Mickey

David,
That is exactly the way I learn things. Somehow, I don't think to ask questions until I have already gotten the answer. Then I can come up with some good questions. Cart before the horse kind of deal. Hey, you might fit right in here in Arkansas. (devil) It has taken me a lot of foul-ups but now I am starting to ask a few questions BEFORE I get into trouble. :-$ 

Mickey