When you have to make multiple cuts (ie trophy plates) how do you set up your shear?

I run the plates on a sheet and then cut them to width then reset the shear and cut them to height.

I have thought about making acrylic plates for each of the common sizes (like 3.25" x .75" etc).

Has anyone else done this or how do you set up your shear?

I have the Discount Trophy S1200C. It has a bar that screws in to the side with a ring with a set screw to tighten it down. What a pain for poor hands. I have to use pliers to get it tight There has got to be a better way.

Not sure about the shear, do not have it.

That is the way I cut plates. Cut all of one dimension, then the other.

I have never seen acrylic that could be sheared. It fractures to uselessness. A safety saw should cut acrylic, again never used one.

Acrylic is tough, but also brittle.

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

Harvey's Tips Page When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

I knew that I was not very clear.
I was thinking of cutting the acrylic blanks on the laser to use to put the stop in the right place. Right now I use a ruler and eyeball it.

If your shear is anything like mine, I have a solution.

Cut a few exact size pieces of flex from scrap. Rez-N-Bond them together so that one edge is perfect. Then that thick edge can go on the stop, and the proper layer to the lower blade.

The other thing I thought of, but never did, is a lasered staircase. End to the stop and the stair of the right dimension to the lower blade.

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

Harvey's Tips Page When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

I like the idea of gluing them together.

I have a pushblock for my table saw that has a staircase on the back corner for blade height. It works as a good starting point but I always have to micro adjust. This shear is more precise than a table saw so I think I will act on my thought and follow your lead and glue them together.

Thanks!

James.. I took some old engraving stock.. and cut pieces.. 8" long to exact sizes double checking with a micrometer.. and drilled a hole in the end of them.. so.. example.. I have .25" .50" .625" .75" .875" so on to over 4 inches.. marking them with a perm marker.. or have a set engraved.. the marker is faster.. and attach them to a chain like you would see a gap tool for cars.. so anytime i need a size.. I just use my pre=made guide and done.. exact sizes everytime.. I though eveyone did this..

Bill

Things like this are reinvented every time someone gets fed up with what they are doing.

Glad the subject was brought up.

There are now three solutions to the problem.

Thanks.

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

Harvey's Tips Page When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

Bill,

Like most men (women can laugh here) I think more than I do.
I like your idea of chaining them together.

Now all I have to do is come up with a better stop. My hands do not like the thumb screw on my shear and using pliers is a pain. I would also like it to be longer. Well time to think some more.

Thanks for the tip,

I saw your post about thumb screws... and dont understand.. our shear has large knobs easy to grab onto and tighten.. what exactly do you have.. ours is a basic shear with no special attachments other than a perfectly square brand stop for the table side of the shear on the right side of the blade is just a square rod with a round stop both have a large knob to tighten..

The pre cut to size blanks that I use can be used for either side of the blade.

Bill

James... I know what you mean about that silly thumb screw and within the first week of owning my shear I went down to the local hardware store and got a knob that is about 2 inches in diameter that just so happens to have the same screw thread as the collar that fits onto the shaft on the side of the shear. The ease of use now is incredibly easy to use and doesn't need to utilize a pliars to get it tight enough. Try it ... you'll like it!

Good luck!

Hi James,

For getting you close to the proper size when using your backgage, you could set the shear up to a known measurement, then scribe the bar on each side. Once you have done this, all you have to do is move the backgage to the scribe, and you will be very close to your standard size. My recommendation would be to scribe every half inch or so...Use your ruler to get close, then hone in on the scribe lines.

Hope this helps........

Ps. Go get yourself the larger knobs that were recommended ;) 
Well worth the effort.

Brian,

I am going to get the larger knob. I will also scribe the lines. I did laser a ruler for my radial arm saw and made a stop that slides on it similar to the shear so I do not know why I did not think about doing the same thing on the shear. Doh! I wonder how Cermark would work?

Hi James,

Cermark would probably work great.....You would have to cermark a ruler on the shafts.....Scribe the first inch mark..... Line that up, and do the rest based off of that mark. Most backgage rods have the ability to be brought in or out for adjustment (at least on our shears they are like that) You might be lucky enough to have that final adjustment if you need it.

Good Luck! :) 

Bill,

Mine does not (yet) have a left side stop. What I have is a 6 sided aluminum bar to the right of the blade. It screws into the side of the shear. On that slides an aluminum ring that has the small thumb screw for tightening. Now that I have figured out how I can use a bigger knob on short plates I will be getting one. With the bigger knob and cermark ruler on the bar and cutting standard sized blanks I will be shearing with the best of them.

Right after I get my spare blade so that I can get the old one sharpened and the nick from the ss ruler my son tried to shear removed. :'-(  >.<  :-(