There has been some discussion about how to cut masking flat with the laser then apply it to an item to be blasted. I've been wrecking my brain trying to figure this out since I just ordered a small sand blaster. You guys with more experience than me tell me if you think this might work...

1. laser the template flat on the laser
2. use something like self-stick laminate to put on top of the new template. This will keep all the pieces in the right spots...
3. stick the laminate and mask on to your item (this may require some repositionable spray adhesive)
4. blast the whole thing.

The idea is that your sand will blast through the weak areas where only the laminate is, cutting away both the laminate and the glass (or whatever) while your mask (being thicker) will protect the rest of the item.

That's my idea, but since I don't have my blaster yet (or even any mask) I don't have any idea if it will work.

Mike

David,
I know that's how it usually is, but some of the things I will want to blast won't fit in my laser...or will fit, but not on the rotary attachment...so I was trying to think of other ways to get a good mask...

Mike

David,
I'll show my ignorance here...does the plotter cut out your template? I always thought of plotters as extra large printers???

And the things I'm blasting right now are just slightly too large for the engraver...it's a 6inch jug (called a growler). It fits in the engraver without the rotary device, but then I have to refocus when I see the intensity of the laser lessening...not the optimal way to do it, I know, but I can get okay results...which is why I was looking at blasting them. but I don't know if my usual way of engraving them would work through a mask...I will try though.

Thanks,

Mike

Mike:
I can tell you how I did it--that doesn't make it right.

Version 1. Place the mask directly on the item to be blasted and laser through the mask. Then blast away. This works on flat items where your laser will be correctly focused.

Version 2. For items which can't be laser engraved with the mask in place. Get a flat piece of scrap aluminum and spray it with adhesive spray. Place the mask with carrier on the aluminum and place it in the laser. Carefully laser through the mask to the carrier. While this is still on the aluminum piece cover the entire masking material with clear contact paper. (Buy it at Wal-Mart or the hardware store) Be sure to squeege this down to the mask because it's going to protect all the "holes" in the mask. (the center of o's,p's etc. so they stay in placewhen you apply the mask.

Now very, very slowly and carefully remove the backing from the mask and apply the mask to the object. When you have done that very, very carefully begin removing the contact paper. Finish wrapping the object and blast away.

I use vinyl for the mask and depending on what you're doing you may want to use a vinyl that will not stretch or one which will stretch.

3. I usually make 2 or 3 copies of the mask while I'm at it as I'm a bit prone to messing up one or more.

4. As I recall, you were new to this so remember to save your engraver settings as you will be doing this often.

Hope you find this helpful.

Mike

Mike,

I didn't ask enough questions. I was thinking flat, not cylindrical.

Vinyl plotters do have their limits as to how much small detail can be achieved. Not all plotters are created equal. I imagine most images being carved on a growler are big enough that a plotter can be used to cut out the resist.

A vinyl plotter is a plotter with a precision cutting blade instead of a pen. The blade depth gets set to cut through the vinyl but not through the backing.

Then transfer tape, (a low tack tape), is placed over the weeded piece, removed taking the vinyl with it, and applied to the final product. The low tack tape then is peeled off leaving the vinyl, (with high tack adhesive), on the product. [Nutshell process description.]

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

Harvey's Tips Page When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

We found a problem cutting our masks w/ a laser. The edges of the mask are burnts and weakened. this cause a erosion of the mask which is not even. I would use a photo resist. Or have the masks cut out with a plotter cutter.

MHerman

Sounds like you are using masking tape, is that correct? We use a Poly film that is safe for the laser and and it has never burned the edges.

Dave

No. We use a poly vinyl film.

I would be interested to find out the laser rated film you use. It could come in handy for some of our projects.

Thank you for that information. Much appreciated.

Mike

If it is a poly vinyl it is probably PVC based which is a definite no no. The fumes creared will damage the laser.

We use Rayzist's LazerMask. We have a 40 watt laser and use a setting of 60 speed and 100 power which according to Rayzist is overkill but since it works for us that is what we use.

Hope this helps,
Dave