Folder Tools & EquipmentBeing square, engraver to shear


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 From:  Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)
 To:  bruce (BBSD) 
3861.9 In reply to 3861.8 

There are a few problems with a shear. And solutions.

Click on 'Harvey's Tips Page' at the bottom of this post and read the blurb on shears. I think it is the third one down.

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

Harvey's Tips Page When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

EDITED: 18 May 2006 by HARVEY-ONLY

 

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 From:  logojohn
 To:  Chris (VINYLDESIGNS) 
3861.10 In reply to 3861.7 
I have recommended a small quillotine shear in the past for cutting plates that have a cut out box engraved.

The blade is across the top and the handle to the right. You have to be careful since there is no guard. But this makes it very easy to look down from above over the blade. You can see the cut lines easily and get a straight cut. We use a space between plates and cut the line completely off. If you try to cut down the middle you will get a line left on one side or another. This is not critical for trophy plates but for plates going on gift items it is unacceptable.

It is really best to also have a regular type shear for pre cutting larger size blanks. There is only about a 9" table on the guillotine so
cutting 12x24 sheets to size is a challenge. We have an old conventional shear that is no longer made that has a 12 inch blade but the table is over 18 inches long. That is used for cutting large plates without guidelines. It even has rubber stops that come down with the blade to stop movement. It was made by Awardsmith. I wish they still made it since ours is about worn out.

Does anyone have the 19" accucutter guilotine? How long a table does it have? That might have to be the replacement.

Here is more detail about the small guillotine.

http://www.engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=1145.13


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