Well, I just tried my first runs on my HP 4550 with paper from Mick at Catus. As recommended I left the little yellow stickies on the top to help get it through. I also put it through the front feeder and had it come out the back (most direct route). It made it out about 2-3 inches then got wrapped around the fuser...That was on cardstock setting. Then I ran it again all the same but plain paper setting. Had same results. So, unless I'm doing something wrong, the paper from Cactus won't work with the 4550 either. I'm going to give JBL Graphics a call and try to get some samples since others have had some luck the the HG paper.

Mike

Mike,
I've already gotten an email from them and they don't really have a paper that would work with the 4550 for OEM transfers...they sell the laser sublimation toner...at $1150 for one set...granted they say it comes out to be about .25 per print...but still alot of money to lay down up front for a business just getting started!

Mike

Hi Mike
I have been using the 4550 since it has first on the market and I have only used plain paper in it. You can use coated inkjet paper if you are sublimating on white but the 4550 is too hot for most transfer papers. Cost for the cartridges might seem high but you are going to spend it somewhere along the way by the time you get done. I switch my cartridges back and forth between regular and sublimation all the time.

I am not sure it is the heat.

The oil fusers use a silicon rubber coated heat roller with oil on it pressed on the face of the paper- the coated side.

The Konica-Minolta, (only one I am familiar with), stretches the BACK of the paper over the fuser roller and heats it through the paper. Nothing touches the face of the paper, therefore no jams from sticking.

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

Harvey,
From what I've read the 4550 is a non-oil fuser..so I don't think that's what it is...I also saw where it was wrapped around when I pulled it out. So I think it was starting to stick to the fuser roller (if there is a such thing...I'm new to lasers).

Bill,
Are you saying that I can use coated ink jet paper in my laser and then transfer from that? I was going to try some glossy ink jet paper, but it specifically said "do not use in laser printers or copiers" so I didn't know for sure...

Thanks,

Mike

Even if it does not use oil, a hot roller pressed on the plastic coated side will stick to the roller.

You should see the mess I created in my Konica when I accidentally put the paper in wrong side up. Your picture sort of describes it.

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

Wow! I must have the most unusual 4550 HP ever made. I have not had a SINGLE jam using JBL Graphics HG paper in my 4550. I use the direct feed single sheet and the heavy paper setting. I do not run it out the back, it comes out the regular paper path. I bought this paper about 18 months ago and it almost gone. Maybe there is a newer version of the paper out. Hope not. Have some more tiles to get out. If I get a chance I'll try to post some of the results.

Jerre

The laser sublimation process is just like inkjet. It needs some (most) polyester in the fabric and a prepared (coated) surface on hard goods. On some items the coating is different for laser vs inkjet. Some plastics (not all) can take sublimation without a coating. Laser sublimation doesn't do well on fabric compared to inkjet.

Jerre

John,

As Jerre points out, all dye sublimation substrates must have a receptive coating or polyester content.

The strong points of OEM toner, are in printing non-sublimatable substrates, i.e. wood, acrylic and glass.