We just got our first good sized trophy order (240), and we feel pretty good about ourselves. Maybe this business will take off for us.

I'm going to use the laser to engrave and cut the plates on Rowmark Flexibrass. I'm working on a layout to cut the plates at 3/4 by 3 1/2, and I figure to get 16 down and 6 across.

I'm just concerned about the plastic curling up when I vector cut it. Any tips? I'm using an Epilog 35 watt machine, and I have better luck using the metal table instead of the vector grid when I'm working with plastic. I'm thinking about taping it down, but that would take a lot of tape to hold all those little pieces.

Edsel

Hi David

If it's ok with you, I'm going to attach my CorelDraw file. I'm wondering if I should move everything 1/2 inch to the left or leave it right up against the ruler. Also, do you know a trick to replicate the plate info on to each plate? My current plan is to copy and paste it until I get 10 or so, then copy and paste them 10 at a time. It isn't a big deal to copy the items, I'm concerned about centering each plate.

Thanks so much!

Harvey,

Why BUY washers? Pennies, nickles, dimes & quarters are all around you..............and when you are done with them holding down your material, just put 'em back in your pocket.
FREE! I like that 4 letter word.
:O)

Hi Dave

I thought I attached the file...here it is again.

Edsel

If all the plates read the same you should be able to just make one to size with cutout and then duplicate them in lthe aser software......and just butt them together. You don't need to vector through Flexi. A good score line (min heat) and then they just break apart. If you want to cut through. Then put tape on the back side prior to lasssssing.. save a step.

If you are doing individual names.. X 240 I would learn the merge process... it's a time saver... especially if you can get the customer to provide a text list (e-mail) with all the names.......

Hope this helps. I use a Trotec so I'm not familiar with your laser software.

Hi Mark

Thanks for the reply! The mail merge is a great idea, and I think I can pick it up pretty fast since I've used it several times in Word. BUT...I got all the names on seperate sheets of paper (one from each coach). My wife had a "snow day" today, and the angel typed them all in for me!

I really like your idea of taping the plates before vectoring them. I'm a little shaky on the idea of breaking them apart..wouldn't the edges be neater if I cut them all the way through?

I'm using an Epilog 35 watt. I plan to check with Rowmark beforehand to get some suggested settings...unless you have some!

Thanks again

I have a 25w. My setting for flexi are:

PWR% SPD% PPI/HZ
RASTER 60 70 1000

VECTOR 50 4 7000

But flexi is very well "flexible" when it comes to speed/power

Hi Mark

I cut off the 3" waste piece I won't need for this job, and ran a few samples.

Like I said, I have an Epilog 35w mini.

Rastered at (speed/power): 100/60, 100/50, and 100/40 and can't tell a bit of difference. I figure the lower power is better, so that's what I plan to use.

I ran 6 seperate vector cuts (speed/power) all using 500 frequency
50/80 best cut, but it flaired up a bit
60/80
70/80
70/90
70/100
65/100 this seemed to do the best with no flames

We have done a 700 trophy soccer league for several years.

I use the scoring method, then flip upside down and tape (you can see the lines on the back) cut the tape between the plates, then snap apart.

I usually do 12"x12" or less for a layout.

I also use lines not rectangles.

Hi Bruce

I've just gotten started in the business, and I'm slowly building inventory and equipment. We've been using the laser to cut Flexibrass for trophy plates. I do have access to a metal shear at work, and I've cut some plates from some laserable brass that I have.

For this job, I'm going to cut all 240 plates from the flexibrass. I gather that you are saying that I should pre-tape the material, then cut the plates? Also, am I asking for trouble by cutting 96 at a time? I'm attaching my template.

Yes, I use lines to cut. In fact, I zig zag them to save laser time...plus it's fun to watch!

Edsel,
I was taking a look at your template and had a question for you. It looks like you build all of your lines right to the edge of the page. When I do that on mine the outer lines are outside of the "printable area". I'm using an epilog 25watt profile (older model). How do you expand your printable area to the very edge of the pages like that?

Mike

Hi Mike

You are asking a guy with very little experience! Which lines do you think will be a problem? I'm just laying the material right against the rulers and using the upper and left edges as they come from the supplier.

One problem I have been having which you might be helping me with is the little "bump" I get on the left edge. Perhaps I should move the entire job a 32nd or 16th to the right and down? I'm open to suggestions here!

I'm using an Epilog 35 watt mini.

I'm suggesting you vector deep enough to keep the material together, tape, and then bend at the vector lines and they snap cleanly apart.

I also use a light sticky film to hold the material down. It's a reusable transfer tape (used to pickup the vinyl letters in the sign industry) that I glue to an alumninum sheet.

I use 12x12 or smaller because it easier to deal with when taping.

With your lay out, I would move all RT and Down about .007" or until print preview shows no problem, delete outside cut lines.

Ok Mike!

Now it's back to the tests to get that vector cut so that it doesn't cut all the way through.

I bumped the entire job right and down .007. There is a vinyl sign making business down the street, I think I'll stop by and ask the guy about that tape to put under the material.