WHAT FUN! - Engraving Etc. Forum

From:	Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)	18 Mar 2007
To:	ALL	1 of 55

6359.1

Finally spent the off-day loading up the sublimation software, setting up the machines and creating a few samples. Forgot how fun a new process can be when you add it to the bag of tricks!

Learning curve seems to be considerably less steep than almost everything else in the shop (...although I'm certain pitfalls lie ahead.) But here's the first two of many questions to come:

First, when pressing a non-bleed item, does it go face-up on the lower platten with the transfer on top, or face-down on top of the transfer? Second, should I sandwich the transfer and item with sheets of copy paper to prevent any chance of the ink getting on the plattens?

Thanks for the encouragement, guys....Chuck and David were right as usual - this is GREAT fun!
:D

Jim

From:	Stunt Engraver (DGL)	18 Mar 2007
To:	Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)	2 of 55

6359.2 In reply to 6359.1
Jim, I press most items face-down, with the transfer face-up. Because of that, I've never used anything on top of the substrate, to keep ink off the upper platen. I print mostly metal plates, so the worst that could happen, is a latent image could be placed on the back of a plate, which doesn't happen, because the back side of the plates aren't coated, therefore, not receptive to the dye. Don't have too much fun! That way, you won't have to feel guilty about making money, while having fun. That would be wrong. :B David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri DGL Engraving Port Hueneme, CA

From:	LaZerDude (C_BURKE)	18 Mar 2007
To:	Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)	3 of 55

6359.3 In reply to 6359.1
Jim I'm happy you got your equipment. It IS a blast......and you will find Matt to be a tremendous help in all aspects of it. And with Kevin on the forum ( not to mention all the folks doing dye sub) you won't have any problems at all. quote: First, when pressing a non-bleed item, does it go face-up on the lower platten with the transfer on top, or face-down on top of the transfer? I find it depends on the item. If you are doing ceramic tile, you will need the felt pads and the tile gets pressed face down. Hardboard items are almost always printed face up ( don't forget to remove the plastic coating :-$ ) Mostly I am doing tile. Johnson plastics sublimation manual does a good job of telling you how....I have referred to is several times. quote: Second, should I sandwich the transfer and item with sheets of copy paper to prevent any chance of the ink getting on the plattens? I ALWAYS sandwich what I am sublimating between two sheets of paper. It's safer that way. I went to the local newspaper and got a roll end of tabloid size paper. I think it will last me the rest of my life. They tend to give this stuff away or sell it at very low cost. Anyway, I'm happy for you and your new tool. Keep us posted. By the way, may I suggest you get a skype account? Many of us on the forum have one.....

From:	Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)	18 Mar 2007
To:	Stunt Engraver (DGL)	4 of 55

6359.4 In reply to 6359.2
quote: I print mostly metal plates, so the worst that could happen, is a latent image could be placed on the back of a plate, which doesn't happen, because the back side of the plates aren't coated, therefore, not receptive to the dye. That makes sense....but on items thicker than metal, does adequate heat pass through the material to create a good bond? When Matt at Johnson Plastics demonstrated a sublimated coaster with a bleed image, he did it your way (transfer side up.) So I suppose there is enough heat for at least that thickness. Am I correct? Jim
EDITED: 18 Mar 2007 by GREAT_ATLANTIC

From:	Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)	18 Mar 2007
To:	LaZerDude (C_BURKE)	5 of 55

6359.5 In reply to 6359.3

Thanks, Chuck. Great thought on the newsprint! We have a local newspaper across the street from the store, and get the end-rolls in all sizes for free (we use it for packing non-shipped boxes and wet for laser engraving crystal.)

So the Sublimation Manual is worth $75.00? I don't mind the expense if there's a boatload of information....but the price seems a bit stiff.

Is Skype essentially an IM tool?

Jim

From:	UncleSteve	18 Mar 2007
To:	Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)	6 of 55

6359.6 In reply to 6359.5
Consider Skype a free telephone to other Skype members... on line... VOIP to be more precise... You need a microphone and either speakers or headset.... and you can set it to control who can call you and when you are available for calls even though you are online. "Good friends can be a real annoyance."

From:	Stunt Engraver (DGL)	18 Mar 2007
To:	Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)	7 of 55

6359.7 In reply to 6359.4

Jim,

It takes longer to press items face-down, but it's done to ensure the substrate is heated enough to promote a full transfer of dye.

It's also done, in some cases, to prevent a coating from appearing blotchy, which can happen, due to more direct contact with the heat source.

David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri
DGL Engraving
Port Hueneme, CA

EDITED: 18 Mar 2007 by DGL

From:	LaZerDude (C_BURKE)	18 Mar 2007
To:	Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)	8 of 55

6359.8 In reply to 6359.5

Jim,

I sent you a pm in response to the manual.

As for Skype, Steve is correct......it is a VOIP, but it can also be used as an instant messenger program.

What is cool about it, is we can have a conference call with up to five people from around the world for FREE.

I'm big into free......

And asking for things.

Later

From:	Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)	18 Mar 2007
To:	LaZerDude (C_BURKE)	9 of 55

6359.9 In reply to 6359.8
Ask and you will receive, except for Ice Cream. Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem) When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

From:	Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)	18 Mar 2007
To:	UncleSteve	10 of 55

6359.10 In reply to 6359.6
quote: Consider Skype a free telephone to other Skype members... on line... VOIP to be more precise... Sounds cool....how's the quality? We've gone VOIP for the company, and it's actually pretty good. Jim
EDITED: 18 Mar 2007 by GREAT_ATLANTIC

From:	Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)	18 Mar 2007
To:	Stunt Engraver (DGL)	11 of 55

6359.11 In reply to 6359.7
quote: It takes longer to press items face-down, but it's done to ensure the substrate is heated enough to promote a full transfer of dye. Interesting! And the materials have no ill-effect from the additional time in the press? I read in some of the materials that were sent that some items will warp slightly (FR Luggage tags for example) and should be cooled under even pressure from a flat, heavy item. Jim
EDITED: 18 Mar 2007 by GREAT_ATLANTIC

From:	Stunt Engraver (DGL)	18 Mar 2007
To:	Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)	13 of 55

6359.13 In reply to 6359.11

Jim,

No ill effects, by pressing items face-down, other than what you mentioned about FRP warping.

Be careful about setting heavy objects on top of freshly-pressed FRP.

At that point, the material is very soft and you can cause permanent indentations or other undesireable marks on the surface.

David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri
DGL Engraving
Port Hueneme, CA

EDITED: 18 Mar 2007 by DGL

From:	LaZerDude (C_BURKE)	18 Mar 2007
To:	Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)	14 of 55

6359.14 In reply to 6359.9
quote: Ask and you will receive, except for Ice Cream. >.< :'-(
EDITED: 18 Mar 2007 by C_BURKE

From:	Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)	18 Mar 2007
To:	Stunt Engraver (DGL)	15 of 55

6359.15 In reply to 6359.13
quote: No ill effects, by pressing items face-down, other than what you mentioned about FRP warping. Be careful about setting heavy objects on top of freshly-pressed FRP. At that point, the material is very soft and you can cause permanent indentations or other undesireable marks on the surface. Ok...I thought perhaps a marble plaque (polished side down) might do the trick, but I'll be careful. One more question before calling it a night. Since the transfer is obscured by the item being sublimated when pressing this way, do you create registration marks on the transfer paper for alignment when there's no bleed image? Jim

From:	Stunt Engraver (DGL)	18 Mar 2007
To:	Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)	16 of 55

6359.16 In reply to 6359.15
Jim, A smooth piece of marble, placed on top, should work as a means of controlling the warp of hot FRP, but make sure it's clean. Something as small as a stray grain of sand can make an indelible mark on FRP. I use a keyline around items which don't require a full bleed image. For example, the lines you see on this page of transfers, (depicting the outer edge of the badge), is actually larger than the size of the badge. I use a .1 pt hairline and make the keyline about .08" larger (in each direction) than the badge size itself, i.e. for a 1 x 3 name badge, I use a 1.08" x 3.08" keyline, which is close enough to the finished size of the badge to ensure accurate placement of the image, while far enough from the substrate to make it a non-printable line. Sweet dreams. :-) David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri DGL Engraving Port Hueneme, CA
EDITED: 18 Mar 2007 by DGL

From:	LaZerDude (C_BURKE)	18 Mar 2007
To:	Stunt Engraver (DGL)	17 of 55

6359.17 In reply to 6359.16
quote: Sweet dreams. :-) David, If Jim starts dreaming about sublimating things, I am going to run screaming.....( insert hearty laugh here)

From:	Stunt Engraver (DGL)	18 Mar 2007
To:	LaZerDude (C_BURKE)	18 of 55

6359.18 In reply to 6359.17
Chuck, Jim seems pretty excited about the possibilities sublimation has to offer. He'll be dreaming up ideas, even while he's awake. :-) David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri DGL Engraving Port Hueneme, CA

From:	Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)	19 Mar 2007
To:	Stunt Engraver (DGL)	19 of 55

6359.19 In reply to 6359.16

Got it....the keyline seems easier than trying to align with registration marks. I'll give it a go......thanks as always!

After shoveling almost 2 feet of snow off the walkway, I don't even remember going to bed let alone dreaming I-)

Jim

From:	Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)	19 Mar 2007
To:	LaZerDude (C_BURKE)	20 of 55

6359.20 In reply to 6359.17

Start screaming, Chuck!

Oh wait, that was a different dream.... :B

Jim