Chuck...

Sounds like I really have to be careful when setting up the keyline. Do you guys bother to tape the material to the transfer or am I pretty safe with the swinger?

Jim

Jim,

You definitely want to tape the substrate to the transfer.

In the case of the transfer for the EE badges, I just use enough tape to create a "tab" along one side (the length) of the plate. No need to plaster it down; you're simply trying to keep the two pieces from shifting, while closing and opening the press.

For larger plates, I use a couple of tabs of tape along all four sides of the plate.

Jim,

The tape REALLY goes along way. I am still working off the roll I got a year ago. It does not take much to hold a transfer in place....

Thanks for answering the question before I had a chance to get back on-line.

To All: I do virtually no sublimation anymore. I do all OEM Laser Toner Transfer. A good $300 color laser printer, a special transfer paper and a heat press, and you can do so much more. (Especially acrylic!)

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

Harvey,
I have dug out my transfer paper from Mick and was getting ready to print some for some tiles I am working on.....but I found it "odd" that AFTER I print the tile, I need to "bake" it at 400 degrees for an additional 15 minutes......I need to talk to Mick about that....but I am going to try a couple of things that Carl was talking about.

Chuck, unless you have to have a glossy image, use bisque tile and you can eliminate the post bake.

I don't offer anything but and have had no problem selling the satin finish I get from bisque tile.

I realize it means shipping expense, but, Mick offers are really nice, high quality bisque tile from England...but I have used some from a local pottery supply house.

Doug

In addition to a slight bit of additional grab, the post bake makes the color shiny.

I do not post bake my stuff, but then I do not do glass or ceramics either.

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

Bisque tile is the clay, kiln fired once. It is after this that a potter or ceramist would apply any glaze that they wanted to fire on. Most tile you purchase would have a color, glossy glaze applied. It is this glaze that oem toner has trouble adhering to under the relative low temps that we press with, therefore the extended, higher temp, post cook.

I believe bisque may also be referred to as "greenware".

Doug