Thanks for answering the question before I had a chance to get back on-line.

To All: I do virtually no sublimation anymore. I do all OEM Laser Toner Transfer. A good $300 color laser printer, a special transfer paper and a heat press, and you can do so much more. (Especially acrylic!)

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

Harvey,
I have dug out my transfer paper from Mick and was getting ready to print some for some tiles I am working on.....but I found it "odd" that AFTER I print the tile, I need to "bake" it at 400 degrees for an additional 15 minutes......I need to talk to Mick about that....but I am going to try a couple of things that Carl was talking about.

Chuck, unless you have to have a glossy image, use bisque tile and you can eliminate the post bake.

I don't offer anything but and have had no problem selling the satin finish I get from bisque tile.

I realize it means shipping expense, but, Mick offers are really nice, high quality bisque tile from England...but I have used some from a local pottery supply house.

Doug

In addition to a slight bit of additional grab, the post bake makes the color shiny.

I do not post bake my stuff, but then I do not do glass or ceramics either.

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

Bisque tile is the clay, kiln fired once. It is after this that a potter or ceramist would apply any glaze that they wanted to fire on. Most tile you purchase would have a color, glossy glaze applied. It is this glaze that oem toner has trouble adhering to under the relative low temps that we press with, therefore the extended, higher temp, post cook.

I believe bisque may also be referred to as "greenware".

Doug

Chuck, with dye sub there is a definite ultimate time and temp to run before the image gets blurry.

I have found the oem laser is more forgiving. I have done less time and I have done more with no ill effects.

Now, I'm guessing here, so take it as such. I believe that the reason for the post bake is to set the "film" that gets transfered with the toner. The glossy finish on fully glazed tiles does not have the "teeth" that a bisque tile has so it takes a little more heat and time.

That said, I also find that a satin glaze is a little more forgiving, but still requires the post bake.

When I have done glazed tile and therefore, a post bake, I just use my toaster oven. I've always felt that if I had a qty to do, such as a large mural, I would just load up my kiln and let it run through the process...I could put 100 tiles in my kiln with little effort.

My first step would to be locate any pottery supply houses that might be on the islands if there are any and see if they offer bisque tile. Anything to save the shipping. Of course, if your local supply uses Dahl bisque tile as my local one does, you still pay the shipping, just not as visible to you. There is of course a savings as they are most likely bringing them in by the pallet.

Doug

Harvey...

Is there a quality difference in the OEM process vs. dye sub?

Jim

David.. I never thanked you for the nice EE badge.. great job.. Thank you... ... Has Harvey/Dee put the photos up from Atlantic Rain City..

again Thanks..

You can get any color that a laser color printer can print. Mine goes to 2880 DPI. (Yeah, sure.)

Negatives are that some colors do not have the 'pop' that sub can give. Also Chuck is right the color is on the surface so is more vulnerable to damage. It cannot be used for keychains, but can be used for most other things.

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

When you finally understand it completely... it changes.