Folder Digital Imaging/Dye SubWHAT FUN!


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 From:  LaZerDude (C_BURKE)
 To:  Doug (JDOUG5170) 
6359.41 In reply to 6359.40 
quote:
It is this glaze that oem toner has trouble adhering to under the relative low temps that we press with, therefore the extended, higher temp, post cook.


Doug,

Thank you for the education. I got it.

Now, here is a question. Rather than post bake the tile, ( if I cannot find bisque tile), what if I simply pressed it hotter and longer? Would that work?

Thanks
 

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 From:  Stunt Engraver (DGL)
 To:  LaZerDude (C_BURKE) 
6359.42 In reply to 6359.41 
quote:
Rather than post bake the tile, ( if I cannot find bisque tile), what if I simply pressed it hotter and longer? Would that work?


Chuck,

I don't know the answer to that question, regarding OEM laser toner, but with dye sub, (375-400 degrees) that's a recipe for a blurry image.

David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri
DGL Engraving
Port Hueneme, CA

 

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 From:  LaZerDude (C_BURKE)
 To:  Stunt Engraver (DGL) 
6359.43 In reply to 6359.42 
quote:
but with dye sub, (375-400 degrees) that's a recipe for a blurry image.


David,

Currently I am pressing 6 inch tiles at 400 for 5:30..... it seems to be working really well..
 

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 From:  Carl (CSEWELL)
 To:  LaZerDude (C_BURKE) 
6359.44 In reply to 6359.43 
OEM Transfer or dye-sub?

Carl

  Guntersville Laser Engraving
  Guntersville, AL
  http://www.GuntersvilleLaser.com

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 From:  LaZerDude (C_BURKE)
 To:  Carl (CSEWELL) 
6359.45 In reply to 6359.44 
dye-sub
 

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 From:  Doug (JDOUG5170)
 To:  LaZerDude (C_BURKE) 
6359.46 In reply to 6359.43 

Chuck, with dye sub there is a definite ultimate time and temp to run before the image gets blurry.

I have found the oem laser is more forgiving. I have done less time and I have done more with no ill effects.

Now, I'm guessing here, so take it as such. I believe that the reason for the post bake is to set the "film" that gets transfered with the toner. The glossy finish on fully glazed tiles does not have the "teeth" that a bisque tile has so it takes a little more heat and time.

That said, I also find that a satin glaze is a little more forgiving, but still requires the post bake.

When I have done glazed tile and therefore, a post bake, I just use my toaster oven. I've always felt that if I had a qty to do, such as a large mural, I would just load up my kiln and let it run through the process...I could put 100 tiles in my kiln with little effort.

My first step would to be locate any pottery supply houses that might be on the islands if there are any and see if they offer bisque tile. Anything to save the shipping. Of course, if your local supply uses Dahl bisque tile as my local one does, you still pay the shipping, just not as visible to you. There is of course a savings as they are most likely bringing them in by the pallet.

Doug

Lavivrus Woodworking
www.tileframe.com

 

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 From:  Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)
 To:  Stunt Engraver (DGL) 
6359.47 In reply to 6359.32 
quote:
You're not sounding cheap. I prefer to say cost-efficient.

Frugal. :B

Jim

EDITED: 21 Mar 2007 by GREAT_ATLANTIC

 

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 From:  Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)
 To:  LaZerDude (C_BURKE) 
6359.48 In reply to 6359.33 
quote:
As far as *I* know all sublimatable items need 400 degrees but varying amounts of pressure.

With OEM, you do not use sublimatable items, but off the shef items......and most of those are pressed at a lower temperature, because the transfer process is different....

Ah...Ok. The OEM process seems pretty appealing too.

Jim

EDITED: 21 Mar 2007 by GREAT_ATLANTIC

 

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 From:  Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)
 To:  Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) 
6359.49 In reply to 6359.35 

Harvey...

Is there a quality difference in the OEM process vs. dye sub?


Jim

 

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 From:  LaZerDude (C_BURKE)
 To:  Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) 
6359.50 In reply to 6359.49 
quote:
Is there a quality difference in the OEM process vs. dye sub?


I dont know what Harvey will say, but I think there is....OEM sits on the surface and you can actually "see" and "feel" the transfer.....and as you have probably seen with sublimation already, it is smooth and become part of the surface......which I think makes for a nice product.......

Just my two cents. Want change?
 

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 From:  Bill (ALBILLBERT2000)
 To:  Stunt Engraver (DGL) 
6359.51 In reply to 6359.16 

David.. I never thanked you for the nice EE badge.. great job.. Thank you... ... Has Harvey/Dee put the photos up from Atlantic Rain City..

again Thanks..

Bill Hibbert
Hibbert's Engraving, Signs, Banners, Rubber Stamps
Glenside, PA
215-887-8982

 

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 From:  Stunt Engraver (DGL)
 To:  Bill (ALBILLBERT2000) 
6359.52 In reply to 6359.51 
Bill,

The pleasure was mine and it was nice to meet you (in a way) through the pictures Dee posted here:

http://engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=6179.93

David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri
DGL Engraving
Port Hueneme, CA

 

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 From:  Bill (ALBILLBERT2000)
 To:  Stunt Engraver (DGL) 
6359.53 In reply to 6359.52 
lol.. thanks.. missed them.. great camera Dee... but what the hell happend to my eyes... lol.. must of had the no eye reduction on to much.. lol..

Bill Hibbert
Hibbert's Engraving, Signs, Banners, Rubber Stamps
Glenside, PA
215-887-8982

 

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 From:  Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)
 To:  Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) 
6359.54 In reply to 6359.49 

You can get any color that a laser color printer can print. Mine goes to 2880 DPI. (Yeah, sure.)

Negatives are that some colors do not have the 'pop' that sub can give. Also Chuck is right the color is on the surface so is more vulnerable to damage. It cannot be used for keychains, but can be used for most other things.

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

When you finally understand it completely... it changes.

 

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 From:  Engravin' Dave (DATAKES)
 To:  Bill (ALBILLBERT2000) 
6359.55 In reply to 6359.53 
Bill,

After a day of looking at all of the product, then talking about new technologies, followed by talking shop with all the EE folks, anyone's eyes would turn red. :P It's caused by brain swell.

EDITED: 23 Mar 2007 by DATAKES

 
     
 

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